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Nathanj1142

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  1. I’m not sure. Will have to confirm
  2. B4 wasnt connected although doesn’t look like anything was in there before. Tried running a wire from that to chassis ground before you replied. checked resistance of all the other earths to chassis inside the car and was very low but I’ll try the block tomorrow. ive got a friend doing a very similar swap, same triggers same ecu just r8 coils. He said he had one back fire when he was trying to start the car in the same conditions as mine (turn the key before cranking). Coincidence? His car now runs so he wouldn’t notice if it was sparking on key switch as there is no excess fuel in
  3. Thinking about the ecu and cop ground variances you mentioned, does the link ecu need to be mounted in the factory location In order to ground? Asin mounted in the footwell? Not sure if it earths through the metal frame
  4. I understand what you’re saying, however the wiring diagrams I used were clearly wrong. The cam sensor is 4 wires which I repinned the distributor connector to work with, and then had to move around the pins at the ecu end, with little to no guidance just pure trial and error. The only help I’ve had is from this forum which I am very thankful for. the cop conversion, on the other hand, came with a guide and a prepinned loom that I have followed which is why I was arguing your wiring point. I shall take a look tonight but I have a few ideas what it may be. I appreciate the time. I have att
  5. Could it be the coil on plug ground? The only other wiring issue I have is that shielded crank sensor wire? Or are you referring to the interference on the cam signal?
  6. Just confirmed it is 106828 apologies
  7. That’s what I have been doing mate just want to get this weird sparking on ignition sorted first. im running a 7m-gte cam pos sensor in place of the distributor as I’ve gone coil on plug.
  8. 0663647 im using a r35 coil on plug conversion kit. Switch live, earth then a signal wire to the corresponding pin. The engine is a 2jz ge non vvti which used to be on a dizzy
  9. got it close to firing at 50 degrees. The problem is when I turn the ignition on after cranking it’s just backfiring out the intake. We did see the spark plugs do fire when the ignition is turned on, is this normal? Is there a setting to turn this off or is it a wiring issue?
  10. -6 degree firing offset and 0 offset just did the same as last night. Tried -360 degrees and was firing out intake. I think I might try -20 degrees does this sound right?
  11. Yes I did as I thought it was reading the wrong sensor. I’ll switch it back over to the other one. Cheers
  12. So it turns out the shielded wire is crap! I ran some more cable( not shielded) to the pins and now works as intended (so I think). tried starting tonight but was just getting flames out the exhaust and a few tries. Took a video of spark plug 1 arcing and trying to see where it was in relation to the tdc mark. Seems to be about 20 degrees after tdc so, that needs sorting. The timing light was playing up hence why we tried filming. can I set a ballpark ignition timing figure while cranking or does the car need to be running? I’m concerned it’s using the wrong cam signal and firing 180
  13. Apologies I must’ve got confused, yes I have g- going to b6. The battery is at 11.7v so I’m assuming it’s cranking a bit slower. I’ll wait to get both signals reading before ironing out the quality of signal. I’ll have to try and switch around some pins for the crank signal now, i checked the resistance at the ecu end of the shielded cable I ran and the variation wasn’t as strong as just the sensor alone. Maybe it’s a grounding issue in my wiring thanks for your support so far I’ll update you tomorrow
  14. Success! Ish lol. I have one sensor reading now. I had all the wiring from the cam signal wrong. I have NE (common ground on 7m cps) plugged to b6 (g1-) the GTE has 2 cam position sensors, which g1- and g2- go to pins b5 and b6. Do I need to split NE to b5- and b6- or does the link only need g1 signal?
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