Ashkelly

Hi looking at buying the above PNP and wondering how flexible the ECU is? manual says to use link MAP sensor however I have ITB’s I’m putting on the motor. how flexible can it be with adding link CAN lambda or 3rd party o2 setups? motors been pulled to out in an older Toyota so some functions will not be required. However I’m wanting PNP as I’m using the altezza fuse and relay boxes in the older car am i better to go for a wire in? cheers

yeah the only thing I can think of is the ground for them has possibly been damaged or yanked on. so I guess I’ll just haft to go through the same tests I did before when I found the faulty/damaged connectors?

Hi, I’ve lost triggers again. car ran fine, went and got tuned, did two track days and now will not start. before tune both sensors were replaced and both plugs changed for new plugs. tuner didn’t see and trigger issues and no faults are logged on the ecu. currently have live ECU, 8v supply at both plugs, when cranking battery drops to 9.4v but ecu stays on and stays connected to laptop. there is no trigger activity on either triggers on the tuning trigger window. nothing has been unplugged, the car has not been touched since it drove off the trailer a month ago. Have tried different battery’s and both have been on charge. what would next course of action be? Both plugs and sensors have been replaced so surely it’s not those again??

Update.. it lives!! multitude of issues faulty crank sensor worn out trigger plugs MAP sensor wired wrong way around (apparently different bosch sensors have the sen & supply swapped) dodgy grounds weird ecu setting with wild fuel master i was a dickhead and changed ign/fuel output to high for testing and forgot.. the list goes on... anyway, thank you for the reply’s and support! Has been a good learning curve Ash

Thanks yeah I’m concerned I can’t hear the injectors when cranking. yet when cranking it says injector PW is there....? might pull the lines off the reg as well to makes sure witch ports holding pressure like you said. Gauge says around 65psi and hear the pump building pressure so I know one sides doing something it should. as well I’ll chuck some more fresh fuel in it. cheers for reply’s, will run through above Thursday evening and let you know how we get on

Yeah I did the injector test function with all to get a bit in each port, could smell fuel in the throttle body when cranking we can’t hear the injectors going though, funnily when we stop cranking we can hear them going for half a second then stopping as the motor comes to a stop

Thanks Adam set it up on cal4 and red labels are gone went to crank and received this is setup with can WB and dash but currently are t powered if that would cause an issue? excuse the ignorance I’ve only had a plug in and base map setup before

REUBENS LINK update.pclr crank log.llg

Thanks for the quick response. When sensor was out and tapping with spanned yes could hear injectors working. new sensor and everything plugged in, can’t hear injectors nor can I smell fuel at TB while holding it open. yes test function for both coils and injectors work fine. I even cycl though all of them to make sure no cyl runs rich or lean after start up. No errors showing. Will post file in the morning

Alright sorry late reply been busy with life. Followed the above and found two issues witch is why I was chasing my tail so I’ve found crank sensor to be faulty, as both crank and cam plugs had squished sockets making for poor connection. replaced all of the above and we now have triggers and RPM! when cranking rpm sits around 120-129rpm consistently however injectors and coils do not operate. I did some Tom foolery while I had the old sensor out witch gave wild rpm and the injectors and coils started operating so I know their good. have I missed something? battery’s is well charged and near zero drop in voltage at ecu and sensors when cranking. does take a second or two for triggers to sync and ready RPM cheerS in advance

Hi Adam hit a bit of a wall. Still no luck, have continuity through loom to pins, I have ground, 8v on both, and pull up voltage on both signal pins. tried xtreme red and black ecu’s with same result. what would be my next step?

Interesting, managed to get the crank sensor plug off. That too has 8v supplied to it. why would the ecu say 5v? Is there something in settings I’ve missed? also both triggers have around 40ohms resistance on their centre pins to sensor ground lug..?

Can confirm motor has two black triggers. Motors from 2004 commodore and looking at the sensor socket 8v is on the left side, ground middle, sen right same the photo you posted. so looking at the loom plug with clip at top it’s, sen left, grd middle and 8v right LS1 5-10 it’s not seeing anything I changed setting to LS2-LS7 and it did this Tom foolery 65,500rpm was the highest, not bad for a push rob motor

I feel as though this is my issue. Have you got any pin out info handy or where I should look? again thanks for the reply’s, new to LS

Thanks for the reply, yes someone else I spoke to said they normally wire them to 12v Yeah unfortunately I didn’t wire it up. Haven’t opened up the loom yet to see where the 5v is feed from. As well the crank sensor is behind the starter (aftermarket starter relocator) witch is covered by the headers so is a nightmare to get too. Granted I’m in a moon boot nor have a hoist witch doesn’t help either. as per picture Cam sensor is wired A sensor T2 B ground C 8v supply from ecu battery cranking voltage dropping to 10v wouldn’t cause this issue would it? dumb question but with the 3S sensor and me passing a spacer past it I should be able to see something on the trigger scope window?