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MarcusV

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  1. It's alive. Thanks mate for saving me again, I can't thank you enough for your effort!
  2. F me. Seriously didn't see this one coming. I had to come this far to find out the instruction was mirrored. I should have clearly read the manual better. Couldn't even think about it as all the previous installations worked out, and I had to modify things when I bought the ecu. Many thanks again, you've most likely just saved my summer vacation.
  3. Hi again, this is starting to look bad. Here you can see two trigger scope logs, with both trigger pins 68 and 69 grounded or disconnected. I can`t see it behaving like you described. In addition there is no pin voltage (3.5V-4.5V) present either. I took the ECU out of its enclosure for inspection and there is no damage to the naked eye. I did`nt separate the PCB:s because I`m not sure the warranty will allow it. Please advice what should I do next. Thanks! TriggerScope disconnected.llgx TriggerScope grounded.llgx stealth mgp 1.2-ia.pclx
  4. I know this sounds crazy. I've got a degree in electronics and a background in building automation, so I'm pretty familiar diagnosing faults in control systems. Everything I state is based on actual measurements and verified wire tracing. This is indeed one of the most labour intensive electric gremlins I've faced for years in my garage. I've ruled out the only relevant explanation and confirmed the speed sensor wire is and never was by no means connected to my CAS connector, and the pins 68 and 69 lead there to the right place. The vehicle speed sensor in my car isn't picking up eg. wheel speed, it's located in the transmission. I would also find it peculiar to give a signal or scope waveform with the transmission in neutral. I've yet to confirm if the wire goes to the speed sensor or not, as it's buried under stuff and sits on top of the tranny. But it's definitely not leading to the CAS-connector, nor was it previously. Currently I don't rely on my CAS working entirely like it should as it's a rather complex photodiode device and I don't have an oscilloscope to properly test it. This mysterious "speed sensor" wire with its suitable waveform does provide me an opportunity to test both triggers one by one with the trigger scope. After several days of hard work troubleshooting, I'm most concerned about the fact that trigger one is totally unresponsive when wired to this signal, while trigger two works fine. Because of this, I have a slight fear that the trigger one circuit in my ECU is fried for some reason. So thanks, that advice is precious tomorrow when I continue. I wouldn't be comfortable "shorting" that signal to ground without your word, but now I'll just grab that wire and tap it to the ground with the trigger scope running in front of me. This also tells me another possible method of failure, if there would be a ground leak in the CAS loom somewhere, the outcome would be similar to the one I'm facing.
  5. I know, but the strangest thing is that the trigger scope of the vehicle speed sensor is almost identical to the signal from a working CAS. So I suspect the car ran with only cam or crank signal+ the speed sensor. The RPM gauge was a bit erratic, but otherwise it worked fine. This car has a combined crank and cam axle sensor on the cam axle. I tried putting the wires like they were, but I can't get trigger one no matter what I do. That's why I want to manually verify the ecu works with a battery or other switchable voltage.
  6. Hello, I've had the pleasure to sort out the boomslang harness that a previous owner installed in my Dodge Stealth twin turbo. All visible wires in the harness are green and I ran in to a wiring error while connecting my new knock sensor, and had to rewire it for convenience. The next issue was that I found my trigger 2 in the pin 68 was not my cam position sensor, but someone mismatched it with the vehicle speed sensor wire (66). The crankshaft sensor wire in the pin 69 was correct though, so I've managed to drive the car like this for years with this wiring error. I've now corrected all the mismatched wires, and the triggers are in the slots 68&69. No matter what I do, I can't get trigger one to turn active. According to my diagnostics, either there is a harness/wiring fault or it's ECU related. So I'd like to manually verify that the trigger works in my evolink. Can I manually use a dc power source or battery to test the trigger function, this would be with the usual ~5 volts? Is it safe to try this? There is also another question, should the evolink with Mitsubishi GTO trigger mode function like the original ecu does and there should be 4.8-5.2 V in my pin 68 with the ignition switch on? I'm lacking this too. I'm referring to the following inspection procedure section 3. Thanks!
  7. Damn it, this was totally my bad. I've mixed my wires because both looms had same colours. Your basic Uego table is spot on. Sorry for barking the wrong tree. This was the last loose end I needed to tie with my new ecu. You've been helpful and your product is great, I'll make sure it gains some popularity in my platform too. Thanks!
  8. According to my notes, the brown wire was connected to the green wire of the expansion connector 1 and the white wire to the blue wire of that connector. I guess it could be possible that it is faulty, though the gauge itself works fine. What I find strange is that it does respond well to the changes of the calibration table, so it could be adjustable.
  9. I've got the Evolink/ G4X Mitsubishi EVO1-3
  10. Another great example from the other end of the scale. The gauge shows 1.67 lambda and the pc link around 1.05
  11. Here we go with the latest log that has the built in calibration. For example the WOT pulls are around ~800 lambda, as I´m aiming towards 12 AFR on full e85 now. PC Datalog - 2021-04-18 2;04;40 pm.llgx stealth mgp 1.0.pclx
  12. I made a mistake on my message. So I meant 14.7, which I will turn back to tomorrow. I'll give you examples then too.
  13. Yes I do. I did it because of e85. Should I turn it to 12? I use lambda value instead in the pc link. Would that setting affect what the pc link shows?
  14. It's the X-series AEM Uego, P/N 30-0300 with a Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. Bought new from the dealer and installed simultaneously with the Link. I've connected it to the expansion connector AN Volt 5 and it's signal ground. I do know the calibration lacks sense on paper, it was done by trying to match the AEM gauge and the pc links lambda 1 reading on idle and reving without load. It's the only way I was able to datalog and adjust the lower fuel map. The attached picture shows calibration suggested by the AEM manual, it's end result is way off the what the gauge shows in every part of the map.
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