thorns

So have mucked around a bit trying the earlier fuel/ign and it wont run nicely, rpm bounces between 2000-2750, and then fuel cut is activating. Went back to my earlier maps and car is idling nicely, however very rich. Have tried doing a data log of it at the moment. Have trimmed the master fuel back to 10ms but not sure how much further to go. Also, have the can lambda installed, however on my tuning screen, the dial gauge does not change, have run the F12 runtimes and everything appears to be okay there, all green etc, and tried reinstalling/config but still same. I do notice though on the log file paremeter it is saying a lambda average of 0.670, but not sure if this is from the OEM narrowband, or can wideband. 16v 4age - MRP base.pclxPC Datalog - 2021-10-16 10;05;43 am.llgx Have attached the log and current setup. Let me know if I need to add anything else to the log to be of use. Have a friend who is handy with links coming over tomorrow, so hopefully he will be able to assist also.

So car is idling and firing up easy, thanks again for outlining all those steps above, made it so easy for a newbie! Engine is running pig rich at the moment, cant run for more than 10 seconds without smoking the garage so definitely need to make some big changes to the fuel maps. Interesing comparing the base fuel map i had been supplied and the one you supplied earlier in this thread. Tables are slightly different, yours has TPS on the axis and mine is MAP, but the fuel values are wildly different, side by side comparison below. Am I at any risk importing your fuel and ignition tables into my base setup given the huge variance in fuel numbers?

Have been watching HPA vids in regards to this (granted it was the G4+ older course). I have the Link CAN Lambda installed and operating, is this the best method for getting the car running okay at low loads and speeds, enough to let me 'limp' the car to the dyno tuner?

this looking better? have ground down 3 teeth, am getting a flash on the timing light now so seems promising..... triggerscopev3.llgx

Does it matter which 3 are removed if I do have the 4 teeth trig 2? Will pull the dizzy tonight and check it out.

this is the screen grabs in case the above does not open correctly. I also have dwell time showing now(4.4ms), and rpm showing when cranking.

This the trigger scope file after making those changes. When i open it it seems empty? triggerscope after.llgx

aw11 bigport.pclxscreen grabs from the scope, tried saving it, but nothing shows up in the file when i open it again.

Curent setup Trigger mode Multi tooth rpm filtering - 1-default Trigger 1 Trigger 2

okay no spark, and also no rpm or dwell reading on the screen, both remain at 0. So working out the trigger issue, is it most likely something I have set wrong in the pclink? 16v 4age bigport with dizzy still.

Just going through my base timing. Should I have the fuel turned off while setting initial timing, or at least ensuring i am in the ballpark before firing the engine? Current timing light is flashing when I run an ignition test, but when i crank the car in calibrate mode i am getting no flash. I do have main fuel turned off as didn't want to fire or flood the engine until I was sure I was close with base timing, so am wondering if that mayeb cuts the spark? I also have the spark plugs out to make it easier for engine to crank while i muck around, is this possibly a cause of the problem?

Thank you so much for your help Adam, that gives me a great step by step to work through.

I think I am getting myself confused here. My base map from MRP tell me to set the timing to 0deg. So is below the correct steps -Turn off the main fuel in PC lInk -remove spark plugs (not sure if necessary but been suggested to make easier to crank) -crank engine and set timing to 0 by rotating the distributor as required while leaving offset to 0 in PC link software -Once I have timing set to 0 on engine, I then need to input one of the 180deg values you outlined above and perform direct spark test mode to confirm value

thanks. Are there any different steps required for setting the timing on a distributor car over COP etc? Or is it just same steps as what most videos and guides show?

Bumping this, is there a complete base setup for this config I could download somewhere? I have one already supplied by someone else, but would just like to double check everything and compare notes so to speak.

Looking into running a wide band sensor and figure I may as way stick with the Link products for ease. My patch harness has an aux plug coming off it with the various spare inputs for now. Looking at the Link it has four wires, power,ground, Can low, Can high, going off the pin out diagram from the maker, am I correct I can pretty much hook it into these pins and be good to go? Am running a MonsoonX G4X ECU

Thanks, worked perfectly! Another quick one, on my 16v 4age, the only two faults I now have are on AN Temp 1 and 2, both are saying above error. Looking at the base map I have been supplied, in both of these the error low and high have been set to 0.00V, guessing this is the issue there. Would I be correct they should be set 0.00V low and 5.0V high as they are both running off a 5v power supply?

Hi, just in the final setup stages on my setup. having replaced the fuel supply line with AN hose and fittings, what is the correct way to test this without injecting fuel into the engine? Looking through the settings it seems pre crank prime may be the correct setting to change? My base map has this set 'off' as standard, but if I set to key on, would this kick the fuel pump into life and pressurize the lines to check for leaks?

Sorry, late to reply! Ended up going for the Monsoon for the added features for not a lot more money. Spoke to Barry at MRP and they are making me up a patch harness, so should be reltively plug and play fingers crossed. A few other jobs to sort out, and then it will be a busy weekend getting the ITB setup and ECU installed.

Thanks for the responses and info! I realise using the term 'simple' was probably a bit tongue in cheek. 99% decided on a Link ECU now though, just need to work out if I try it myself with assistance of friends, or pay someone to do it. Cheers

Making something like this adaptor, https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4age-20v-link-adapter-loom/ In simple terms, is it a case of just using the wiring pin out diagram from toyota, and matching it up to the appropriate link pins, and then adding any extras such as you mentioned above? If done correctly it should run once a base map is installed?

Would you know anyone in NZ that makes either full harneses, or a patch harness to take factory ecu plugs into the link?

HI, I am looking at installing ITB's from a 20v 4age onto my bigport 16v 4age and possibly using a Atom ecu. With the atom G4x, is there a patch harness available for this to make it a plug and play type of setup? Can I also run the atom with standard the distributor, or do I need to switch over to a coil on plug type setup? What other sensors should I look to add over the standard 4age, inlet air temp and a wideband sensor have been suggested, is there anything else I should add? If there is not a patch harness, how difficult is it to make my own patch harness given I have no previous wiring experience? Cheers Paul