Sonac

I plugged my laptop in to investigate further. I went into the link software and opened the runtime values. AN Temp 1 is ECT and is reading 1.12v AN Temp 2 says IAT and is reading 3.57v AN Temp 3 has no label but it reading 3.07v AN Temp 4 reads almost 5v so open circuit I disconnected the sensor which would go into the factory air box. AN Temp 2 showed fault and the voltage went to 5v. I disconnected the brown sensor I took a picture of on the intake plenum. What'd ya know! AN Temp 3 went to 5v. So it IS connected to the ECU. That makes wiring so much easier! Tomorrow I will chop the plug off, and splice in my nice Bosch IAT sensor which is located just before my throttle body so won't heatsoak unlike the stock position. Thanks again for the help.... now I just have to figure out the CAN connection for the wideband.

Is that the plenum temp sensor? Its screwed into the manifold above the fuel rail. Its the only sensor which goes into the intake system. My tuner said the ECU could only see one sensor, the one on the intake cone. I will have to plug my laptop in later and see if I can find it... and if so i'll chop the wires and splice in my new sensor which is in a much better location.

I thought there was. But when I took it to the tuner last, he said there was no other temp sensors connected to the ECU. I had the welder put threads into my new intake pipe just before the throttle body which should be a better place for this sensor anyway. Oh well! Perhaps I'll use that input then since the wires are already in the engine bay.

Thanks for the help all. I actually bought a X-Series AEM gauge so I guess it should be able to do CAN as suggested. I will have to try and figure that out. And I appreciate the circuit diagram for using the voltage input for the temp sensor. That will be the way I do it then. I have some resistors somewhere. I didn't replace the airbox sensor input because I think it will be useful to have both.

I have a couple of questions which i'm hoping someone can help me with. Currently, I have the notorious Innovate Motorsport wideband which eats sensors. Its currently connected to the ECU though a VOLT input on the expansion loom with a single wire. I am planning to replace it with a better AEM model which has faster polling and a two wire analogue output. If I am to assume correctly, the negative analogue wire will just connect to the green 'GND' wire of the expansion loom? Then I just load the AEM calibration table and it should be sorted. My second question is about an Intake Air Temp sensor i'm about to install. Its a Bosch one so good quality. I have heard that all the LINK inputs have built in pull-up resistors. So am I to assume i'll connect the IAT sensor between the +5V and a VOLT input? My expansion loom doesn't have any AN Temp inputs so i'll have to make do I guess. Thanks

Just purchased a Link Knock sensor with loom. I have the plug and play G4x, looked at the pinout and it seems the stock knock sensor is hooked to pin 42. Its a one wire sensor. As I understand it, I run the new loom to the ECU and hook the white wire to pin 42. What should I connect the black wire to? Not sure which ground to use. Thanks

Hi there, I want to convert my Celica ST205 from distributor to coil on plug. I have the coils and a harness ordered but I'm not entirely sure how to connect it to my plug and play ECU. I looked at the pinout for the expansion loom connectors are those don't seem to be suitable. Am I going to have to modify the stock harness to get them to work? Also I have the basemap running now but I can't get to a tuner for a while. I don't suppose anyone has a tune they could share with me which will allow me to drive around? The basemap is obviously unsuitable for road use. Thanks EDIT: Just re-read the description of the COP loom I bought from GT4 play and it seems they provide instruction for re-pinning the loom to make it work. And they also email a base map which allows the COP to function properly.

Ah okay, so I won't need to install my own resistors. They'll be there already. Good to know Appreciate the help/info

Sounds good to me, I likely won't use many additional inputs anyway. Maybe clutch switch for launch control and temp sensors. I think the ST205 has low impedance injectors, not sure if there are factory resistors or not. As you seem to know quite a bit about these ecus; can the link PnP handle it or will I need a resistor pack? On another note, Isn't the ST185 very similar in pinout anyway? A little re-pinning would make the ST205 version work no?

I had no idea, maybe I was looking at old specs. In that case the PnP sounds like a much better option considering the price is similar. Perhaps I'll get the PnP after all, it was my original plan.

More versatile. Plug and play model is using ancient hardware, 40mhz processor. The MonsoonX is much newer and far more powerful (150mhz) which is very important. When the processor is too slow you can have issues. Can't use so many features at once because of the slow processor. That's what a tuner friend told me at least, he recommended the MonsoonX over the p&p. He told me about how pretty much all haltechs have a processor which is too slow for their feature set which causes accelerator enrichment that delayed and you get lean tip ins. Obviously Link is a lot better but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I want to avoid issues like that at all costs.

Hi there, I'm thinking of getting a MonsoonX for my Celica ST205 and wiring it in. I can see that a base map for my car is available but it seems to be for a plug and play model. Will the base map still work for me? Thanks