magguza

After both of your suggestions I was able to get the values reading on the Arduino the very next day. It took a while but I was also able to get it displaying live in my personal program's GUI as well. There was one question I had with values that cross into decimal territory. For stuff like lambda it didn't display decimal precision using the MSB and unsigned format for the other values above, is there any setting I should be using for values with decimals?

I had just copied over the settings for RPM from the help section without fully understanding it, but I think I understand where I went wrong after your explanation. I had multiplied the value by 4 using the multiplier and created an extra step by needing to divide by 4 later? For optimization and the fastest runtime possible I should just revert the multiplier to 1, right? The MSB first and multiplying the first byte by 256 I understand and luckily I didn't mess with it. I'll look into uint16_t and bitshifting, admittedly I've never heard of these two things in my life.

I managed to get an Arduino reading a canBUS stream for RPM but I'm not sure where to go from here as I'm unfamiliar with CAN. Here's a video of the values being read within the serial monitor on the Arduino. I've played the video in slow motion and the RPM values seem to be correct for the most part to whatever is displayed in PCLink. However there are some cases where I don't know how to convert hexadecimal over for use in my own program. For example these lines: Timestamp ID (1000 here) RPM 16:29:27.344 -> 0280.701 RX: [000003E8](00) 0F F8 16:29:27.391 -> 0280.722 RX: [000003E8](00) 0F F4 16:29:27.391 -> 0280.741 RX: [000003E8](00) 0F F0 16:29:27.391 -> 0280.762 RX: [000003E8](00) 0F E4 16:29:27.436 -> 0280.782 RX: [000003E8](00) 0F DC 16:29:27.436 -> 0280.802 RX: [000003E8](00) 10 0C 16:29:27.484 -> 0280.822 RX: [000003E8](00) 10 44 16:29:27.484 -> 0280.842 RX: [000003E8](00) 10 54 16:29:27.530 -> 0280.862 RX: [000003E8](00) 10 3C 16:29:27.530 -> 0280.882 RX: [000003E8](00) 10 4C 16:29:27.530 -> 0280.902 RX: [000003E8](00) 10 44 16:29:27.576 -> 0280.922 RX: [000003E8](00) 10 00 In the cases where "A-F" isn't present like "10 44", I assumed the RPM was just 1044. But for cases where the RPM was in the 900's, the value was "0F##". With a straight conversion to decimal, a value like 0FDC is 4060 which clearly isn't correct. Are there any solutions within CAN setup to avoid this? Or any documentation of conversion I can program around? When hexadecimal is present in the second half I'm not sure how to handle it as well.

I think I understand it now, thanks for the help.

I did a little more looking into it to understand CAN. I've never done anything related to CAN or wiring before so sorry if I'm incorrect. The layout to receive and parse the data stream is now this. Link G4X CAN port (via CANPCB cable + CANSER tuning cable) --> some DB9 RS232 CAN to USB converter --> my PC via USB Currently looking at some of CSS electronics CAN data loggers but I don't know if the Link CANSER cable pinouts will work for this application. Will this orientation allow me to receive the data stream on my computer?

Bumping this topic with additional questions instead of making another. For the byte stream output, am I correct in thinking that I'd need a CAN to PCB cable (101-0022) and another tuning cable to plug into my PC? Will I then be able to receive the byte stream via serial port?

I'd like to attempt to write my own program to connect to my G4X, similar to RealDash or other aftermarket digital dashes. Looking to do it just to learn and get something for my compsci portfolio. Is there any documentation on how to pull information/values from the Link ECU via USB?

Lock ignition timing was set to 10. Would my timing offset have been the -85 that you mentioned if I had set lock to 20? I left most of the settings where they were from the map that has been going back and forth between the tuner and I. I'll suggest these changes to him instead of doing it myself as I don't want to mess with his work.

Sorry for the double post, I found out that my timing offset is approximately -75 (around the 5th timing mark on the pulley, 20 degrees stock for BNR32s). However it still won't start. Could you go into the fuel settings that you didn't particularly like? I would prefer to learn about this stuff for a career or future projects as well.

I gave it another try this morning without doing anything other than the previous suggestion and it worked. The timing light button is kind of wonky but it flashes now with the updated dwell settings and gapped old plug. Thanks for the help, it was 3 weeks of stressing and ordering/returning parts.

The spark tester is not adjustable from what I've seen, I couldn't find anything online about the gap it comes with as well. I used the best of the previous sparkplugs which I confirmed were firing and gapped it to 3mm, then adjusted the dwell table like you did above. The timing light did not go off with any of these changes but it looked like the light on the spark tester was much, much brighter. I played around with the timing offset and attempted to crank for a timing light flash between -275 and -55 (increments of 30 degrees) but none resulted in a timing light flash either.

Still nothing. Should I be messing with the trigger offset values to try and get the spark to align with compression like you previously said? I can't think of anything else to get the light flashing besides getting the car running.

I narrowed the inconsistent spark to the ground wire on the powdercoated cover. The harness is fully re-pinned and all coils are connected, but the ground wire previously on the cover now goes straight to the battery. It sparks every cycle as it should with this setup but it still doesn't run. The files are too big to attach again so I'll google drive all. Cranking with all coils connected, no injectors, -85 timing offset Cranking with all coils and injectors connected, -85 timing offset eTune map

I'm going to try to be as detailed as possible, however I've never dealt with electrical components on this level before so please pardon my lack of knowledge. I'm having issues getting my timing light to flash on my car to setup the trigger offset. This is my current ignition setup on my BNR32. Ignition Setup Hitachi R35 Coil Pack Conversion (5000~kms since purchased / installed) New BCPR7EIX NGK Iridium Plugs Wiring Specialties Harness Actron CP7527 Inductive Timing Light Injectors and all coils except the first are currently disconnected. I've bought brand new NGK plugs as I thought the old ones might have been the cause previously. I'm currently on my second timing light, both were new and confirmed the first worked on my friend's stock BCNR33 using the induction loop behind the igniter. Since I'm using the Wiring Specialties R35 coils to RB26 harness, I do not have the induction loop in the rear and am putting the induction clamp over a spark tester that sits between the first coil and the first spark plug. As a recommendation to my car previously not sparking as often as it should and looking "weak", I have de-pinned the first coil connector and jumpered only the harness signal wire to the coil. The power and ground to the coil is directly from the battery. The wiring setup that I have can be seen here. What Happens / Process On PCLink both triggers and RPM were showing after receiving solutions to my previous post for help. I attempted to crank the car with the timing light attached but it has never flashed once on my vehicle. Cranking with plug visible (PRIOR to getting power and ground from battery, connector is not de-pinned here) Cranking with de-pinned connector / power and ground from battery Cranking with de-pinned first connector but another Hitachi R35 coil in it's place (trying to confirm it's the same with another coil) The flashes on the spark tester are consistent after getting power to the coil from the battery, but the timing light has never worked. I recently powder coated the covers where the ground sat before and the wire isn't in exactly best shape. I thought it may have been the ground so today I ran a jumper from the ground wire pictured to another chassis ground and another attempt from the wire straight to the negative terminal of the battery. Both attempts didn't change anything. The car did run before switching to the LinkECU and adding fuel components. CAS was in the exact same position, R35 coils and harness were already there as well. Truly lost, is there anything I should be checking?

Thanks for the help, this was exactly what it was. I now have RPM and spark when cranking.