Christoforos

Hi Adam. Thanks for the swift feedback. Attached you can see that they are connected correctly. I have mentioned above that with this plumbing is boosting 0,8bar which is the pressure that the wastegate springs can hold. To me, this seems that the plumbing is ok. Can you please confirm? How about the MAP? Is there something not configured correctly and the solenoid is not activating to increase the boost further? Thanks

Hi guys. I am looking for some help. I have tried to enable the boost control for my external waste gate form the Link G4X ECU rather than the HKS EVC-S (because I want to fine tune and it is not user friendly). I have read the topic "Subaru wrx sti V7 Wastegate %DC - Active map" and I followed the LINK help file for the correct plumbing of the valve. Please note that HKS is using their own valve and I used the Denso OEM valve which I tested using Link test tool and it is working fine. They are both 3 port valves. The initial plumbing was with one pipe coming from turbo boost side, then into the valve common port. And then from the valve NO port to the wastegate bottom side. The wastegate top side was open to the atmosphere. This setup was working and I could boost 1,3-1,4bar. I have tired to plumb it as below which I believed it is more correct as it requires less effort from the valve. Please note that I used the Denso OEM valve. Unfortunately this setup was not working. The turbo was boosting 1,6bar and beyond instantly and then it was cut off from the ECU engine protection. After spending hours to figure out what is wrong, I dumped this setup and I plumbed as it was working before but again on the Denso OEM valve. In regards to the MAP, I chose to start with OPEN LOOP control. I have used very similar to the recommended values that Adam posted to the above topic which I mentioned above (please see below for your ease): Unfortunately again, even with the initial plumbing and the above MAP, the valve is not being enabled at all to any RPM or Boost to increase the boost further ( I do not hear it either) and now the max boost is up to 0,8bar which is the spring strength (I believe). From what I see, there are only two conditions. The MAP pressure which I set it even lower to 50kPa and the RPM which I left it as it was to 2000RPM. Here is the MAP: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjaHKcNV8KOYixG_OiTOm0zwhfn2?e=tTnM4U Here is one LOG: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjaHKcNV8KOYixLBLvICeaFRc2oO?e=qFELI2 Can you please tell me what I am doing wrong and the valve is not being activated? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Christoforos

Thanks for the detailed explanation. While reading the manual I saw that Limit Control Range and Hard Limit Activation is referring to RPM. The PCLink and as you mentioned above, refers to kPa. Please see below: Limit Control Range Specifies the range that the limiting operates over, the Limit control range operates under the specified limit value. For example, with an RPM limit set to 7000 and a control range of 200, the limit would operate between 6800 and 7000 RPM. A typical RPM Limit Control Range would be 200 RPM. Hard Limit Activation Specifies how far past the end of the Limit Control Range you can go before the hard limit will apply. A typical value for an RPM Limit would be 200 RPM Also, the axis of the 3D diagram of the Advanced Limiting Mode are: %Cut, RPM, TP. Is there a mistake in the manual in regards to RPM?

From what you explained regarding MAP limit, I understand that with Advance mode OFF there will be larger cuts whereas with the Advance mode ON the cut out will be smoother. That is preferred of course. I did not try it though. Can you advise on default settings for GC8 engine? For the speedo, I am not sure if it converts the mechanical into digital pulse. I hope it does! Yes, I saw that is DI4. I tried to read also GP Speed 1 and the Driving wheel speed before without any luck. No read. I will try also as per your suggestion to turn on the pullup and provide feedback. Thanks again for the swift feedback!

Thanks Vaughan for the tips. The rooftop I set for MGP is 1,5bar. So with Advance mode off, shall I set MAP limit to 260kPa? I will run the update of the firmware soon as well. The last point you mentioned might be correct as well as I was playing around with tuning. I had another log (similar though) but it was big and I could not upload. I will follow your recommendations (please confirm the above question) and I will get back if there is any other issue. One final question. My car does not have electronic speedo. It is mechanical. I want the ECU to have input of speed as well. What do you recommend to do if I want to keep the mechanical (without changing original speedometer) and provide input to the ECU as well? Thanks in advance!

Hi guys. I am running a G4X plug-in ECU on my Subaru WRX V1 and I am missing something on my tuning. I am currently working on increasing performance of the engine by increasing boost pressure, fuel pressure and fuel flow. Apart form the mechanical modifications, I had to add the next levels of pressure to the fuel and ignition tables. After doing so I confirmed the PCLink to interpolate from the existing values and the values of ignition do not really seem right as it gave values much lower that 10deg BTDC. However I run the car and indeed cuts down somewhere higher that 140kPa where the ignition timing falls little lower than 7,5deg BTDC. Then I made a correction to to ignition table by inserting the minimum 7,5deg BTDC which I saw the engine still run well. When I run again I had the same problem and when I see the log file I see that it goes lower than 7,5deg BTDC which I set at the ignition table. Can you please check the log file and the tuning and advise what am I missing? Thank you in advance. Christoforos Attas 10.02Subaru WRX initial map.pclx ECU Log 2022-02-5 12;55;44 pm.llgx

Hi Adam, Thanks for the instant reply. When I changed the lamp to 0 then it just shifted 10 degrees and instead of showing near 0 as the picture above (white mark) it was shifted near 10 degrees at Idle and then much further at 3500. So I left the lamp setting to 10 as the default setting. It seem to me though that the timing was shifting to 24 degrees when I was releasing the trigger of the lamp to go to 3500 RPM and then press it again to see the timing. I saw that if I kept it pressed from Idle and then increase the RPM then the timing was not changing by a lot and it was around 0. So I guess this was the correct procedure. Thus I added another 2,5 degrees and 60ms to delay and now the timing is spot on at 0 at the entire range of RPM! To summarize, it was actually a wrong procedure of the use of the timing light.

Hi! I have difficulty to understand how to setup the trigger calibration base timing because of the timing light. I am using digital timing light Sykes-Pickavant No.300530. Attached you can see its user manual. Below you can see a picture of my timing pulley at idle and I drew and arrow to show you where it goes at 3500rpm. The second picture shows a preset value of degrees on the timing light as per the manual. I highlighted that below and also another point I got confused. For now I did not make any changes on the base timing. Please see below. Can you please help me understand who this really works and what value should I set my base timing? Thank you so much! 300530+Digital+Timing+Light.pdf

You are right Adam. I mixed up with the ACC! Thank you for correcting me!

Hi, I recently got my G4X plugin ECU for WRX V1. I also connected the CAN Lambda as per the instructions and I did the set up at the PC software. I don't know if it works as I did not start the engine yet. My concern thought is regarding the power to the coil. The diagram shows that the coil is energized by the ignition switch. During cranking though the power to the relay is interrupted (as we all know) and once the engine is started it will be energized again. Is this OK or does it need to be energized also while the machine is cranking? Thanks!