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Good stuff, I used a Thunder previously on the first Honda but I'll be honest in that I cannot really stretch to it for this project, the BMW is much milder and trying to stay simple. That is excellent information as always, the final sentence hits the nail on the head I think. Thank you! edit: Just realized I am still logged into an old account on my phone! I couldn't log into the account or email address yesterday so sorry for starting a new one and any confusion! Thank you.

I was looking to go with a Storm if I decide not to use a lambda or maybe an higher model if it is necessary to do so. It is a good NA engine and I have no plans at all of introducing boost at any point. I am set on using Link due to previous use and support.

That is good to know, thank you! Is it still ok to power the ECU, injectors, coils, two solenoids and the three CAS and CAM hall sensors from the Main Relay or is this too much tacked on to one thing?

Dragging this one up from the depths to keep it in one thread, are people fitting flyback diodes for their VTEC and i-VTEC solenoids or is that unnecessary?

I had seen the Haltech CAN box and that was partly where the question came from, not that I'll stray from Link (in no small part due to the support on this forum, and of course from yourself Adam). That is good to hear as it will make things simpler than excessive daisy chaining, though I don't usually have trouble that way, just have to draw a line somewhere. Thanks again!

Thanks for your reply Electredge, it will be regular TXL with DR-25 with a little adhesive heat shrink for junctions and ends, can't quite stretch to the fancier versions or moulded boots unfortunately. I think I've worked the injectors out at circa 1A, high impedance EV6 type, if my math is anywhere close, so I'm happy with that, it was the coils from regular 20AWG that I was concerned about as I really don't want to re-open the harness later, but likewise I want to minimise bulk this time round.

Quick one, now CAN is much more common than in previous threads here, does anyone have any experience with out of spec CAN spur lengths? I usually daisy chain ECU to Dash to the next component, CAN Lambda or whatever it may be. This time I have 5 x CAN components to connect on 1 BUS and daisy chaining this seems wire/bulk-heavy but components are relatively spread out, a few certainly over 300mm away as most literature says is "required". Thank you for any input!

If anyone else finds this while searching, I randomly stumbled onto a MoTec document listing 6A at 12v with 2.5ms dwell for the K20 coil, the same should apply to the very similar Toyota coils

Hi I am fitting a Link Fury onto a K20. I did one with a Link Storm a while ago and now this is the second time round and a second project. Anywho I cannot find any current ratings for the K20 coils, for such a common part there is very little around. I'd like to use an 18awg feed to 4 x 20awg for power / ground and 20awg for trigger, as I have a lot of these sizes. I also want to use 22awg from a 20awg for the injectors. 22awg for all sensors. Does this sound okay? Thank you for your help again this time around!

That's good to know, thanks for the good info, all the best.

Thanks Adam, I did see that afterward but was curious of people's take. What's your opinion on the power supply for 12v Hall Sensors, lump them in with that lot as well? I guess they are pretty resilient really.

What is the best practice for powering 12v sensors, such as a hall effect crank sensor? Tie it in to the ECU's ignition live? Its own dedicated supply leading to a lot of individual wires from the ECU loom? Same question for 12v solenoids like a VTEC solenoid also, do you tie those into an ECU live feed or give it its own dedicated supply? I guess the Lambda heater could also be included in this topic, not that it is relevant to me, but may help someone else searching in the future. And as another add on, I've noticed many other ECU manufacturers say to run the coil live and injector live on the same live as the ECU supply? That doesn't sound great to me, but perhaps I'm paranoid. Just interested in what people prefer to do or what is best avoided to keep the components good, thank you!

Appreciate the help so not trying to rush anybody, sure you have loads on your plate, but I'll forget about it until I really need to know if I don't find out soon haha, so time for a quick morning bump

That is excellent info thank you, weapons of choice here are usually Raychem closed barrell connectors with a decent crimp tool and adhesive shrink, so hopefully no trouble here besides the potential sleep deprived operator error, but I totally hear you on the often dicey connections seen in aftermarket automotive wiring. Last question before leaving you all in peace and reading through the help files again, the Main Relay + and - terminals seen on an additional connector on some models, and I guess the Ign Sw terminal, are these mandatory when feeding the 14v+ terminals from a relay already and not wanting to use any hold power function? Thanks again for your time and effort straightening out uneducated folks like myself.

Again to avoid a fresh thread and add my most-likely-stupid question to this thread as it comes up immediately from Google on the ground subject... So, the numerous individual power grounds... No beef with going to the engine, makes sense to me, and I've done a couple of mates Link setups like that. That said, why are 4 individual wires mandatory all the way to the engine needed? Say I went 2 x 18AWG from each A and B connector into one single 14AWG wire going to the engine? (Sizing is hypothetical, I've not checked amp ratings so if the size is ridiculous please disregard). Or say I ran all 4 to a BUS and then the BUS's main feed wire to the engine in an adequate size? Is this purely, as I think Adam may have angled at in another thread, so that if a bolt comes loose or you otherwise lose a wire then you still have a safeguard in place via the remaining wire(s) until you are able to replace it? Is there some core electrical concept besides a precaution that I am missing with regard to grounding? Thank you in advance for any clarification. p.s. I have now found the help section in PC Link which answers masses of questions, I was unaware of this having not installed it previously so apologies for any prior questions that had been answered in the existing documents there.

As in, does DI 13 - it require grounding externally to allow D 13 + to receive a speed signal or is DI 13 - just for switching purposes, apologies if that was unclear.

To save cluttering the place up with a new thread... When feeding an OEM 0-5v speed signal from a 3-Wire speed sensor into DI 13 +, do you have to run DI 13 - to anything or is it still simply a one wire input to DU 13 +? Thanks for your help guys.