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evoseisymedio

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  1. I would like to do it myself, I just need some basic instructions, like pin number in the motherboard and pin number in the OEM ECU connectors
  2. Hi I also have a 92-95 link g4+ (92X I believe) and would like to know what is the modificaction needed to make the knock sensor work. Thanks in advance, Rob
  3. Hi Adjusted the TDC at 252+16 = 268 degrees and it starteds. It sounded rough though My friend tuned the maps and the sound got much better, same as before with the distributor. We could not finish the tuning as one of the pins fpr the cylinder firing signal got out of the connector, so we'll have to finish the fine tuning on another date. Will post the dyno charts. Not hoping for more hp than before (165 as I recall), just hope for the same power and torque but without the hassle of the distributor and spark plug cables
  4. I found the TDC at 252 degrees with the light and following your instructions today a friend of mine will adjust the map in a dyno. I'll let you know how it goes
  5. Thanks both!! I already used the ignition test and confirmed that all cylinders fire up and in the correct order. New coil & new spark plug. Does the spark look right in the video? I recall seeing bigger sparks in other cars, long time ago, but I am no mechanic... Next step timing light to find TDC Ignition test cyl1 20210607.mp4
  6. Yes And yes, you're correct, I was hitting the button before cranking I got this scope today. Does it look right for a b16?
  7. Hello again It won´t start. We tried changing the trigger offset to several values between 288 and 315. Also to -263 (the existing 97 in the map -360 for a full revolution). The we tried findg out the right trigger offset with the strobscopic light, but we could not find the TBDC mark Then we tried a trigger scope and it looks like all we're getting is noise, no real signal? We have not changed the settings and the car was running fine before making the changes to independet coils. Is it possible that removing the A21 and A22 signals has disrupted the trigger signals somehow? Just in case it means anything, I added the Trig 1 &2 signals to a log and both change to yes when cranking
  8. sparking on the exhaust storke would prevent the engine from starting, but the strength of the spark would not be affected right?
  9. Hi The car won´t start. I crancked it for a few seconds and nothing happened. When I released the start button there was a big explosion. I hope it didn´t make a whole in the piston or any wreck like that I have removed the coils one by one and using a spark plug I have verified that there is spark in all cylinders, so the four signals from the ECU seem to reach the igniter of the coils. The problem I see is the spark is weak: it is not blue, is orange. And it does not make the cracking noise you'd expect from a healthy spark There is a Dwell Control Table, but I am not sure whether it is actived when choing Direct Spark or I have to activate it somehow. Values seem to be in line with what I have seen for K20 coils in other forums, but could you please advise whether to keep or to increase? Also, I understand the parameter Spark Duration is only relevant with Distributor and I can disregard it as a source of issues? If the above can be discarded as a source for the weak spark, is it possible that the coil ignitor is receiving a voltage lower than needen to fully close the coil transistor? I've read it is a 5v signal, but just in case... Sorry for the brick, but I am a bit desperate, I have a race planned for this weekend Any other troubleshooting suggestions will be appreaciated Rob
  10. Hi I tested my injectors with a cheap injector tester and got the following results, compared to the injector that flowed the most being 100% Inj1: 100% Inj2: 98% Inj3: 96% Inj4: 95% Now I'd like to compensate the difference in flow by trimming the fuel table so that inj2 is open 2% more, inj3 4% more and inj4 6% more. Is this possible? I tried inputting this info into the Fuel Trim Table, but after I click OK and go back to the table, it does not seem to reflect the changes I tried inputting decimal values instead of %, but I am not sure this is the right thing to do: Could you please offere some guidance? Cheers, Rob
  11. Many many thanks Adam!! Amazing support we're getting for Link products!! I've got a G4+ for civic and a G4X for a lancer and the next one will for sure be a Link too.
  12. Hi I' in the process of moving away from a ditributor-based ingition to individual coils. I have found a couple of threads in forums.linkecu.com and I believe I understand the changes that have to be done, both hardware and software, but I'd like to make sure and avoid a black ECU Hardware mods: 1. Install indovidual coils (K20 or K24 style) 2.Wire coils. First pin on the left (1) is signal, 2 is ground and 3 is 12V 2. Connect signal wires to ECU A-10 and A14 are empty, so I'm going to install new pins A21 and A22 are occupied and go to the distributor. Do I have to cut those two wires or splice them so that the original signals reach the distributor? Ignition 1 goes to cylinder 1. Is this the one closest to the timing belt? Software Go to Ignition Main and change: Iginition Mode to Direct Spark Spark Edge to Falling Any other changes needed? Do I need to "activate" A10 and A14 somehow? Cheers, Rob
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