JOEL

Hey, I know this is a little difficult to do over the computer, but wondering if anyone can have a look at my WG Duty Cycle table and suggest any tweaking of some sort. Aiming for about 245/250kpa At the moment it spikes to 250ish, drops down to approx 215kpa and sometimes climbs again to about 230kpa. I've attached a few logs with a few pulls also the map (23/02/22, but have been trying to tweak the table as I've been driving so they might be a little different to what they show in the log. LOG 1 is the latest, LOG 2 is when DC values where too high under load, LOG 3 has a good 2nd and 3rd gear run in the middle, LOG 4 is when the table was pretty far off, have tweaked since then, I included it as a reference to what the numbers probably shouldn't be. Have logged: Engine Speed MAP MGP WGate DC % MAP Limit Status This link contains all the logs: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lic2ne8pupjqnd7/AACWhf51WQ5_PaMDIJMRnv3ia?dl=0 230222 LATEST FILE.pclx

Hi everyone, Quick question, when using "Gear Shift Control" for flat shifting, I'd like to confirm the meaning behind "Driven Up Shift Fuel Trim" The way I understand it by the word "Trim" is that this table will introduce a fuel cut? If I'm correct in that it is cutting fuel on the up shift, is there any way to add fuel during up shift?? Thanks

Ok well I've sourced the problem, I need to clean my stupid rats nest wiring up, I separated all the wires in the loom close to the ecu and the problem went away. If you're having issues similar I highly recommend checking your loom out. Thanks everyone for your help!

Hmm yeh I've only got the purple and black plug solenoid attached to the manifold, I've deleted that straight through one which I believe was for the cold start. The thing I don't understand is it idled perfect before I advanced my intake cam slightly. Tempted to just use no idle solenoid and just use the throttle stop screw to control idle to see if that solves the issue as it seems like its opening and closing when it just needs to stay steady. It's not like your typical misfire, it drops down to about 700rpm and then up to 950/1000. I've adjusted so many settings, the idle is sort of steadier now but still goes lean and rich and you can hear a difference. Regarding using no idle solenoid and just a throttle stop, would I zero out all values in the software and adjust the screw manually, recalibrate the TPS and thats all?

Thanks Adam, I've got another idle valve at home I'll test that out when I go home. I took another log just now while idling and noticed something, the only thing is the fluctuation in the battery voltage going from approx 13.5 and approx 13.2 but not sure where that is coming from

Hi Adam, I disconnected each injector while idling, it made the typical misfire, but still didn't replicate the big up and down of the idle. Since posting, I have played with many idle settings, have been using open loop, changed base position while car is heating up, but once it gets above approx 80 deg it starts going up and down again. It is fine from start up, up until around 75-80 deg C it starts playing up.

Thanks for your responses, essb00 I've tried your suggestions but this made the car worse, my master fuel is set at -35% as my afr when driving shows that number is best, around 11.5 stoich at WOT. Vaughan and Adamw, The car does seem like it has a slight misfire on idle due to the leanness. When I richen it above stoich, the idle still jumps up for 5 seconds and down for about 10 seconds but does sound smoother. I didn't want to leave it like this because the values just didn't seem correct, it made my map have a big high spot. I will disconnect injectors one at a time later today and report back and yes 100% the x series wideband. I'd also like to add that when driving under 10% throttle, the car also misfires and reads lean but anything more, it drives smooth and shows nice AFR again. The only time it has gotten better was when I retarded the timing on my ignition map in the idle section. I was playing around and gave -50 retard next to a +14 deg advanced cell to play with a lumpy cam sound and the idle didn't oscillate like it does now, only when it is at "normal" ignition values the car idles funny. I should have also mentioned in my first post I did advance my intake cam ever so slightly (with a VCT adjustment plate from boostdoc), before I did this the idle didn't oscillate at all. So, since advancing the intake cam, the car doesn't want to stay at a particular idle target, also car turns off after about 30 mins of idling and will not start once ECT is above 90deg C. I know it's a lot to read but I appreciate the effort and time you guys put into this forum.

Hey Everyone, Wondering if anyone can help me out with this idle issue I have, Idle jumps up and down and cant seem to figure out why. For example while idling, the AFR is very lean for some reason. AFR Guage in car shows it jumps between 22 and 16ish sometimes between 22 and 29 when at operating temp. When cold sometimes its between 9 and 15, so a very large range. I've tried adjusting the fuel table to try make it idle at a normal AFR but values look way to high (idle values higher than WOT values). So I've left it how it was, just wondering if anyone can look at my map and log to see if there is anything strange they can see. Thanks 130122 weird idle.pclx weird idle.llgx

I had a similar problem, but this was after installing an aem 24 tooth cas disc. Adam told me to add or subtract 360 from the current offset in the trigger calibration section, I subtracted 360 (ended up on -356) and it fired up straight away.

Perfect, thanks Adam, do you know why it would have to be -360 for it to run?

Hi Adam.Are you able to recommend correct settings for 24 tooth AEM CAS Disc?I've just installed one in my rb25 cas, correct settings (24 tooth, pull up on, falling) Set base timing to exactly 15 Deg.Get "yes" on trigger 1 and 2, but cant start up for some reason.The scope also looks fine.

We had this same problem in my brothers EG Civic, thought the fuel pump might be dying, opened the tank, and it was full of rust/corrosion.

Thanks Adam, for some reason I didnt even think of showing TPS as a parameter on the time plot! what an idiot haha That'll show exactly what I'm after

Hey everyone, Apologies if this has been answered, I'm wondering if there is an option to highlight the sections where you were at 100% TPS or above 80% etc during the log? I know I can go through the log bit by bit and see when 100% was reached but Im just wondering if this is also possible? Thank you

Thanks Adam, I'll look at some different options of routing the vacuum lines and go from there.

Still seem to be overboosting, spring is a 14psi spring, I've set the map limit to 255 to fix the cutting temporarily but its still overboosting hard which is a worry. Its boosting to approx 20.8 psi now, feels fast as fuck but its just not right lol Hopefully the enging isn't going lean. My tuner told me it was tuned to around 11 afr for safety so I doubt its going lean

Sorry, may have uploaded wrong file. Please see attached @Adamw, Thanks heaps LATEST.pclx

Hi guys, Car is R32 with RB25 S2 engine, link g4x ecu, I was wondering if anyone can help me out as to why my car is over boosting. Was tuned on dyno, all was fine for a few months, upgraded turbo to a slightly slightly larger one, waiting for another tune now. It's meant to only reach 1.2 bar, but its going up to 1.5 and hitting cut. Just want to confirm it is not something mechanical before I take it in for a proper re-tune. Things I've done: - Recorded the waste gate while driving (to make sure its opening) - Ground out my bell mouth dump pipe, to make sure the flap isn't getting caught on anything, it opens fully. - Went over vacuum lines, replaced some, all were fine. Ive attached the log here, also the tune file. You can see at around 2:30 where it happens. Let me know if you see anything, Thanks heaps overboosting.llgx JOEL.pclx

SOLVED! Had a very weak ground if anyone was wondering and had a similar problem

Hi Adam, Thanks for the quick response, no sparks when I use ignition test function, will upload tune plus log of engine cranking this evening. Thanks for your help

Hi Everyone, Apologies for another thread, I just cant wrap my head around why I cant get any spark. New ECU install on an RB25 Series 2, Checked wiring for coils - OK, getting 12v Checked coils - OK Checked plugs - OK Trig 1 Signal - YES Trig 2 Signal - YES And I am getting approx 150-300RPM when cranking. Connected ground to plug body and tried cranking, no sparks. Any ideas would be great! Thank you

Hi Adam, Thanks for your response, When I select the "Delphi AC IAT" the temperature shows -40c, do you know why would it show -40c? Thanks

Hi everyone, I have a Link G4X in an rb25 s2 and I'm trying to set up the IAT sensor, its a GM sensor and there's no option for that one. From what I've read, I need to set up a cal table, I've tried doing what I can and the temperature now shows at 0c instead of 150c Anyone with a similar sensor able to help? Thanks

All sorted thanks

Neil, Yes you're correct. I have got in contact with him he is just taking a while to get back to me. Hence why I was asking on this forum. Thanks