blackedoutjedi

its fixed, and as you suspected it was electrical interference. I switched the plugs out for resistor plugs like you suggested and the issue went away. I've been driving it for 4 days now and it hasn't acted up at all. thank you Adam!

It looks like its already set to 1. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQ9rNqQGhCQsMQAY?e=BaGHRm I set sync to none and unplugged the trigger. it didn't make a difference. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQ7htNk2JMA8fCcH?e=dpWKGf you mentioned that I should see an occasional no start with no cam sync and that would make since because at some point the engine would be on the wrong stroke but it started every time. I must have started it 10-15 times with no problem.

Im using the Link 3 channel Igniter (only running the one channel, Distribution is still being handled via the distributor), an MSD 8207 Coil no suppressor Powered on its own Relay and NGK BP6HS plugs. only contamination I can picture would possible spark jump in the distributor interfering with the cam trigger. I will switch it off and disconnect it tomorrow. if it is the issue then I can switch to a coil pack set up and run waste spark.

Problem is defiantly getting worse. After it gets to running temp it will do it at idle and even stall occasionally. I swapped the crank sensor but it didn't seem to change anything. I also went through and rechecked all my grounds and by-passed the vehicle wiring basically wired the motor up like and engine run stand just to isolate it from the rest of the car but it didn't make a difference. I was able to capture a few scopes and record logs but the ecm kept disconnecting. scope1 @ Idle https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQ3EssgI3JrYGgUL?e=fYSyym scope2 @ Idle https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQvy7QmDXrv208ph?e=OG7npG scope3 @ Idle https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQmWMWsSr1GXiVzn?e=DBG46a Scope Just Off Idle https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQqxBzoQqwTrs_t-?e=k3ocuQ Log Hot Idle Stall https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQzAwh8b5AJ6qTna?e=cASPud Log Idle To 2K Lost Comm https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQgTnDdFua-t_9Rf?e=9HueMx Log Idle To 2K Timing Drop And ECU Disconnect https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQcM8DVjojtrBnB0?e=bhp7o5 I haven't actually switched trigger 2 to none but I did unplug it while it was running and it made no difference. Realize thats not the same as turning it off and I'm going to be trying that in the next few hours.

did a wiggle test and didn't notice anything come up. both triggers are running the shielded/insulated wiring that came on the link harness direct from ecu to the sensors. no splices, and both sensor connections are correctly crimped using new factory Bosch/Deutsch connectors. Battery cables are new and built using #2 welding cable. engine is grounded on all 4 corners. sensor grounds connections are clean and tight. cam sensor is a modified stock distributor. I pulled it apart, everything looks good and clean. everything on the crank trigger looks good. clearances are correct, sensor bracket is secure. The sensor is from a 2003 Focus. I ordered a new one but it doesn't appear to have a high failure rate. Could the problem posable be in the tune or the settings? maybe I have something set up wrong?

ok, I did a few scopes hoping to catch it while it was happing. the last 2 scopes are during the actual event but I'm not seeing any change in the triggers. also did another log. you can see that it doesn't always lose the cam trigger when it happens. but I did find out that it wont happen until after the engine gets to temp (185degF) Log. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQBLkrlRjHddr6uI?e=klxlPB scopes: 1 https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQZb3C_0X5Ovi-5Z?e=ZSbYN4 2 https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQQVDILEIDgbwkQn?e=2ysubV 3 https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsgQH6rbHnzTnwOUbO?e=RpTe2S

sorry man, was trying to remember how to get them over to onedrive to share. Log https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553ZsfuKja6ds3KMQHfk?e=cjXj7V Tune https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553Zsffm0Oo1Mo5LTEOc?e=TwH5QC

hey Adam, I've been working on the car trying to get it more reliable and its pretty close but I'm having an issue with it dropping all the timing for 3-5sec and then it comes back up while driving. at least that's what it seems like. when it happens I can hear the change in the intake and there's a significant loss of engine power for a few sec. then it switches back to normal. any ideas?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AstISA8553Zse-m-LTXJ5H22QOM?e=6FEcEj hopefully I did this right, sorry I have no idea how onedrive works but I think its right. anyhow, here is the warm up log from the other day and one I did this afternoon but I had some connection issues.

huge improvement! acceleration feels a lot smoother, very noticeable tipping into the throttle just off idle. thanks Adam! There is one issue that has become more prevalent after the changes and that's returning to idle. It had the problem before but didn't seem as bad. with out a load on the engine if you rev up and let off the RPMs will dip way low before stabilizing and returning to idle, often times low enough to turn the charge and oil warning lights on momentarily. its worst when driving and if I down shift and force the RPMs to hang at all when coming to a stop it will stall every time, (starts right back up.) I realize that a lot of that is due to not having and wheel speed or in gear reference but is there any work around? here's a log from a drive this morning. it only stalled the one time. PC Datalog - 2021-07-16 8;16;50 am drive.llgx I did, but when I try to up load it says the files is too large. Colder this morning than previously so it took longer to get to temp. I will try again tomorrow.

Thanks to alot of help from Vaughan and Adamw I was able to get the car running and to the tuner but I'm having some idle issues and could use some help. I know from past experiences that tuning on a dyno rarely addresses low rpm drivability and idle, not to mention when I took it in I still had a hardware issue with my IACV so its no fault on the tune shop. when I got the car back it had a hard time on cold starts, sometimes taking 2-3 minutes of cranking before starting. figured this had to do with the IAC problem so I waited until the new valve showed up before thinking too much of it. I installed the new valve and copied all the idle control data from the WRX V7 tune because thats what the tbody and IACV came off. the tune seemed to work but not well. I kept dealing with erratic idle speeds and still had trouble on cold starts. I made some changes to the idle tables and it got more stable but I still have an extended crank 20-30sec. and after it start the idle seems to move around and surge sometimes. here is a log of todays cold start and complete warm up along with trigger scopes during cold crank and running after warm up and the tune. any help would be great. PC Datalog - 2021-07-13 11;39;14 am warm up.llgx cold start.llgx warm up.llgx 1968 volvo 122s b20 tuned IAC 800rpm hot target.pclx

I dropped the master fuel from 13 to 10 and it brought AF to 13.3 at idle, at least now it wont foul the plugs. I spotted the voltage when I was logging. I had been running the factor 1974 Alt. and had relocated the regulator to under the intake trying to clean up the engine bay, guess it didn't like the heat. this morning I made a bracket and installed an SI alt, fixed. I tried bench testing the IAC and its broken. I got the Tbody used so I don't know if it was broken already or if I fried it because its wired wrong. I ordered a new one this morning. thanks again Adam, super helpful.

I'm running a valve off a 2005 WRX. its a 3 wire but when I looked up the wire diagram for an 05WRX it shows only one wire going to the ECM then a ign. 12v and ground so that's how I hooked it up. I have been messing with settings and I have it running now but no IAC control, it was stuck open so I bolted up a block off plate and and opened the throttle valve until it would idle hot until I figure what's up with the IAC. and its running super rich, 10.4:1 or so. I have an appointment with the tuner on Monday but I really want to have the base setup dialed in better so I can at least drive it to them. the car is super low and hard to get on the trailer. here's my tune and a log at idle. If there's anything obvious or if anyone has any pointers I would appreciate it, trying to get a better understanding PC Datalog - 2021-07-2 6;46;18 pm.llgx 1968 volvo 122s b20 base setup 4th wideband.pclx

yeah. I broke down the theory in my head right after I asked the question. no way to make the ECU ignore the signals on the 2nd rev but not the first. I got it running by switching to none for trigger2 sync like you suggested and switched fuel to multi-point group. It fires right up and idles. Thanks Adam. the idle is a little high 900-1300rpm and I didn't see an option to change desired idle. Any insight? I didn't let it run very long its 112F out right now and I didn't want spend much more time out there. Also, I'm going to modify the distributor tonight and try to get it to run sequential later this week when the weather cools off but I'm having a hard time understanding how to determine sync tooth position or if I even need to. reading the description it sounds like its for DOHC or twin cam engines, is that correct? when it refers to a cam sync point in relation to the missing crank tooth position is that just TDC? sorry if some of these questions seem obvious. Like I said, I'm new.

would it be posable to just set it to cam pulse window so it only looks for the pick up at a specific position? That way the ECU will just ignore the other 3 teeth.