m3gusta

Just following up on my issue - I determined that I blew out two of the traces in my PNP adapter for the Temp Signal Ground and TPS Signal Ground. Most likely making some kind of mistake when I was building out my subharness. I worked around this issue by crimping the cam signal ground to the temp signal ground and wiring my subharness and TPS grounds off of that and so far we're good.

It's a G4X Fury wired to the OEM harness of a 1999 BMW M3 using a PNP adapter harness. I am able to trace continuity from the sensor grounds on the OEM connectors to the OEM 52 pin connector. But I am not able to trace continuity from the OEM connector sensor grounds to the ECU Sensor Ground pins. With ignition on, there is continuity between the sensor ground pins on the G4X connectors and chassis ground / battery. Does this indicate a short from ECU sensor ground to chassis? I did confirm that with the subharness I made, I accidentally spliced into a chassis ground instead of sensor ground. Ironically, the sensors read as expected wired this way. I have since corrected this by splicing into an actual OEM sensor ground (which I have traced continuity to the OEM harness connector), but now all the sensors are reading 5v.

I attempted to make a subharness for an ethanol, oil temp/pressure and fuel pressure sensor by splicing into existing 5v, sensor ground, and 12v (for the ethanol sensor) lines on my OEM harness. These sensors are all reading as expected, however I have concerns that I spliced into a chassis ground instead of sensor ground. When testing for continuity between the ground pins from my sensor connectors and the battery I am reading 45 ohms. I am not able to read any continuity when testing the connector ground pins against the shield ground or ground out from the A or B connectors. What lead my down this path is I am no longer getting a reading from my IAT or ECT sensors, they are both reading 4.96v with the sensors disconnected or connected. And last but not least, I am trying to test for continuity between the shield ground / ground out pins at the ECU and known sensor ground lines (MAF, TPS) and am not reading any ohms I obviously messed something up, but feeling a bit lost on what to test to figure out my issue. Appreciate any help.

Thanks for your help as always, Adam. You were right, the DME relay wasn't getting 12V from the battery. The wire which powers the DME relay from the battery came loose.

I ran the battery dead on my car trying to get it off the trailer today. Long story short, it's down 2 cylinders and it was very hard to start it on E85 to roll it off the trailer. The voltage got so low that the ECU was resetting when cranking. I finally got the car off the trailer and have been charging the battery all day, and the Link G4X Fury isn't powering up at key on anymore. Battery is reading 13.75v currently. With key on, the blue LED is flashing instead of solid, and the aux fan is powering right away. Not hearing the fuel pump or any other outputs and I can't connect via PCLink. Probing pin 5 (+14V) with the connector connected and the key on is only reading about 5.5 volts. I'll try a different battery tomorrow, but is it possible I damaged something?

Attached are my logs and tune. I get these errors intermittently, they can both be seen at the beginning of the attached log. I don't use an E-Throttle, is there a way to hide or disable the Aux 9/10 error? And what can I check for a Lambda sensor taking too long to heat up? PC Datalog - 2022-10-14 2;54;25 pm.llgx S52_02.pclx

Thank you so much for that. That's exactly what I had in mind, just needed someone to show me the way. I'll report back when I get the chance to test it out.

I believe your assumption is correct, I have a digital input that seems to be in an On state by default and my A/C was working as expected before switching to a standalone. That sounds like the approach I want to take. I can already trigger the A/C clutch on, but just want to make sure I'm taking advantage of the pressure switch to operate the A/C safely. S52_10.pclx

I have an OEM AC pressure switch wired to the digital input on my G4X Fury. Is there a way I can convert this on/off value to a voltage in a Virtual Aux which can be used in the AC Clutch controls to turn off the AC when the pressure switch is inactive? Or is there another way that this input can be used to disable AC in the event the pressure is either too low or too high?

BMW S52 w/ G4X Fury Wire-In I'm just about ready to have this motor tuned, and today I noticed that the light which turns on when the fuel tank is empty is going on it gets brighter as the RPMs increase. First time noticing this and I have been setting up the motor for about a week now. I could have missed this the entire time but my gut tells me it's related to something I've done recently. Today I wired in a GM ethanol sensor. I tapped 12V from the MAF connector, and sensor ground from the TPS sensor. Is it possible something I did here could be contributing to this weird issue? FWIW, the ethanol sensor is reading correctly, and so is the TPS for that matter.

Thank you so much, this is really helpful.

I have a G4X Fury wired to a BMW S52 motor with a plug and play adapter harness. I am using the original IAT sensor and am trying to calibrate it for accurate measurements. The Bosch calibrations are not accurate for the IAT although ECT is accurate. I have found the sensor scaling table for the S52 OEM ECU and inputted that data, however the reading is still inaccurate. I'm of the understanding that this table is only accurate for a pull up resistor value of 2.49k oHm. With only a choice of 1k or 10k oHm, how can I convert this table to be accurate for a 1k oHm pull up resistor? Thanks for any and all help. Total newbie here but trying to learn as much as I can.