pioneersti

Sorry, I made a typo in the post it's 36-1. I confirmed my suspicions today that the sensor seems to be only acknowledging the missing tooth and disregarding all other teeth. That is why there were only 10 teeth in two seconds of cranking in the scope log. Example: Cranking at 240 rpm would produce only 4 signals per second (240rpm/60secs = 4rps), so in 2 seconds you would only get 8 signals. So initially all teeth are read, then as soon as the missing tooth passes, it only reads the missing tooth. Today rather than start capturing the scope log during cranking, I started the scope just before cranking to see if I would see most of the teeth until the sensor logic ignored all but the missing tooth. I have attached that capture, which shows this happening. It seems the trigger wheel design is a big factor in the reliability of the genuine GT101 being able to properly read a missing tooth wheel. I have a GT101 with 36-1 wheel on a rally car that has run for 3 years, and works flawlessly, but that wheel has slim teeth and wide spacing between the teeth, whereas this one has the space between the teeth roughly the same as the tooth width. Thanks for the part numbers on the GT101 replacement sensors that can work properly with missing teeth. I'll source one of those to use on this car. Honestly without your mentioning the missing tooth problem of the GT101 this would have been a lot more difficult to try and figure out, so many thanks. However I'm still interested to know if you think this theory is plausible? This post from Zac Peterson on the HP Academy forum for 2018 mirrors what I think is going on: As an aside, I don't like using GT101's as engine speed sensors for any trigger wheel that has missing teeth. Often the change in flux generated by the tooth that ends the gap is much larger than the rest of the teeth which are evenly spaced. The GT101's have an internal feedback loop that adjusts their trigger levels, so what you end up seeing is all the teeth are read fine until the tooth that ends the gap comes past the sensor, the large signal this tooth creates causes the GT101 to adjust its internal trigger levels, and from then on it misses all the other teeth, only ever seeing the tooth that ends the gap! The particular situation I struck this on was a 60-2 wheel on the crank of a C20XE/X20XE engine. They are great for regular tooth wheel patterns though, and wheel speed sensing from ABS rings. TriggerScopeLog_221107_01.llgx

I tried to start the car this afternoon, but I think the GT101 may be having issues with the missing tooth. During cranking I'm seeing cranking rpm then it drops to zero and then it goes back to cranking rpm and back to zero and doesn't seem to show rpm again. I have attached a trigger scope, a data log and the calibration file. I suspect, based on what Adam mentioned, the GT101 is having trouble with the missing tooth. Trigger Scope 1 looks like there is only one tooth, almost like the sensor logic has decided the large missing tooth gap is the correct gap, so it ignores all the other smaller gaps. Hopefully the files will shed some light to point us in the right direction. Another question, I have the pull-up resistor turned on in the software for the GT101, but was wondering if maybe I might still need to add a 1 kOhm resistor between the 12 volt and signal? I hope the scope and data log will show if the sensor signal is strong. Adam, you mentioned the Littelfuse hall effect sensor as a replacement for the GT101 that would not have a problem with missing teeth, Is this the one you were talking about? 55505 Series - Flange Mount Geartooth Sensor https://www.littelfuse.com/products/magnetic-sensors-and-reed-switches/hall-effect-sensors/55505.aspx PC Datalog - 2022-11-6 1;49;03 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog_221106_02.llgx Yard_016_GT101_36_1.pclx

Hi Adam, Thanks so much for the great info! Never knew the GT101 had logic that could cause issues with missing teeth, so thanks for that knowledge. The car had issues with the Electromotive sensor and 60-2 wheel, so I suggested to the owner that he switch to the GT101 36-2 setup, so first startup with the GT101 will be Monday. Fingers crossed no issues. Thanks again.

I'm trying to change the setup on a vehicle that is using just a missing tooth crank wheel (no cam sensors) and running in multi-point injection and wasted spark. It has been changed from an Electromotive 60-2 setup to a GT101 with a 36-1 wheel. It was working with the 60-2 setup but there were issues with a lot of trigger errors. I have never worked on a setup with just a crank sensor and would like to know if the calibration file, which I attached, looks correct (except for the questions below). I have also attached a diagram of approx where the missing tooth occurs with the engine at TDC on number 1 cyclinder. Am I correct in assuming that for the trigger offset I should start of with -50 to -60? These are the changes I think I would need to make to the cal, are they correct? Sync mode is set to 'Cam Pulse 1x' change to 'None' Tooth Count is set to 60 change to 36 Missing Teeth is set to 2 change to 1 Sync Tooth is set to 14, this one I am not sure what it should be, or if it's used. One last question re the MSD ignition. He has the Digital DIS-4 Plus High Output, model 62153. The original cal has it set to falling, and the car did work, but should I change this to rising? Thanks. Yard_015_fuel_adj_master_adj.pclx

Hi Adam, Thanks so much for the information!

One of my customers recently sold his car, an Evo 9, and the buyer has contacted me asking about the ACD, for which I know very little about. Apparently it is not functioning and all the ACD dash lights are on. He took it to someone who tried to connect to the OBDII port to access the ACD computer, but it did not work. Am I correct to assume the OBDII port will not work with the Link G4+? I said I would ask a question here on the forum.

Can two output wires (or more), both using low side switching, be joined together and run to a low wattage warning light? The goal is to have more than 3 parameters trigger the warning light. I realize this might be possible using the software, but regardless I would mainly like to know if doing this could cause any damage to the ECU, and secondly if it would work. Hypothetical example, Aux Output 1 wire joined to Aux Output 2 wire, then joined to negative side of warning light bulb. Aux1 set to 'COND 1 OR 2 OR 3' for 1. rpm > 7000 RPM, 2. MAP > 220 kPa, 3. ECT > 105ºC Aux2 set to 'COND 1 AND 2 AND 3' for 1. rpm >3000 RPM 2. MAP > 110 kPa 3. Lambda 1 > 13.0 AFR As said above, regardless of whether this could be done another way in the software using a single output, I'd like to know if joining two or more low side switched outputs has any potential negative effects. Thanks.

Thanks Adam. I figured that would be the case. When he is using the switches the ECU will be on, as the ignition needs to be on to use the by pass switches. Still, I am going to suggest he not bother with the dash lights. However, just for clarification though, as per the diagram for the water pump section, wouldn't the diode (for example IN4001) in the wire leading to the switch and light, prevent any backfeed to the aux output?

Thanks Adam and aerace_fab ! I took your advise and ran all four grounds, and used the 18awg M22759 so should definitely be good with ground. The customer wants to be able to run his fans and water pump via a switch for cool down after runs, and I have done this quite a few times for customers with another brand ECU with no side effects. However this customer also wants to have the dash lights (warning lights). I made a diagram to better explain, would you let me know if there could be any possible issues with wiring the switches and dash lights this way? If there could be possible issues, would a diode as in the water pump section of the diagram resolve them? Thanks. Temp_Kill_Switch_Fans_Water_Pum.pdf

I have some questions re ground wires. I know to run separate wires to engine ground and not join to a single wire, but with the Link Fury are all four grounds required (A34, A25, B34 and B25)? Also is 18 gauge mil spec wire suitable? Thanks.

Thanks! I think I'll try and find some from Toyota, as you said, it seems like quite a neat solution.

Thanks for the reply, and all the good info. Using just one sensor ground on the B connector would be easier and neater as you said. I'll revise that on the diagram. Totally agree with spare inputs and outputs. I usually use a cloth type automotive electrical tape for the cabin wiring, so adding more inputs and outputs that reside in the cabin are not difficult after the harness is completed. For the engine bay wiring, which is sealed with DR25, I usually run several 'dummy' wires to a Deutsch DTM connector, so they can be used for any future features required. If using a mil spec firewall connector I add 'dummy' wires to use all the available pins on the connector for both cabin and engine bay side, and again terminate both with DTM connectors. On a different query, I just did the install and tune of a Monsoon on a 4A-GE which came with a harness built for the Link Monsoon. The system is using a Link CAN Lambda and we are getting errors 33 and 16 (from memory). I will try adding a capacitor to filter any interference, but was wondering if I should also add a noise suppressor for the coils (using Toyota COP)? The symptoms indicate it could be noise related as the CAN Lambda will start giving an accurate reading (we have an AEM X series analog output on an AN volt input) about 5 minutes after start up, but once the engine gets past about 5,500 rpm (will have to refer back to log), the CAN Lambda stops giving a reading. What noise suppressor would be recommended for the coils? I may start adding them to future installs anyway to reduce chances of interference.

The customer hasn't added one because he will be using GPS speed from his dash. I have advised him that a speed sensor would still be beneficial to him as it would allow him to utilize boost by gear, which I think he may need with a forced induction K24.

Hi, I will be installing a Link Fury G4X into rally car with a Honda K24 engine. I've been doing this for many years, but first time with a Link ECU. I always create wiring diagrams prior to building a harness, and would like to ask if there are any assigned inputs or outputs that should be changed to different pins, or any other changes in general to the wiring that would be recommended. Since this will be a motorsport spec harness using mil spec wire and sealed with Raychem DR25, I want to make sure everything is correct before proceeding to build the harness. I have also attached the calibration file I did to suit the wiring and sensors. Thanks. Link_Fury_G4X_A_and_B_Loom_Honda_K24.pdf Mark_Fury_G4X_025.pclx

Thanks!

Hi Adam, Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and bought the sensor. I have another quick question. The Fury G4X has 4 ground wires that would all run to the engine block. However, for use on an engine simulator, it is necessary to use all four ground wires? I'm hoping I can just use one from the A connector (A34) and one from the B connector (B34). This is the engine simulator I use http://www.turbofast.com.au/AutoSim/autosim_002.htm I will only be using the simulators Aux output LEDs, which means I won't be using any external sensors or solenoids.

Hi, I looked at the diagram for wiring the Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor directly to the Link Fury G4X (internal controller), and then played around in the software to see if 'free air calibration' was available, but didn't find it. I was going to order this sensor from Ballenger Motorsport which has a calibration resistor https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/103_105/products_id/1645 . Is this sensor compatible to wire directly to the Fury G4X? Does anyone have a Honda K24 base map for the Fury G4X? I'm very familiar with the G4+ but trying to build a base map from scratch using other files (K20 from G4X and K24 from G4+) is a bit of pain.