RobPhoboS

can lambda. Error 5 - must just be dead sensor (which is was, and is replaced now). Fundamentally, it's just correcting far too much in CLL, and I think it just needs to be redone as I'm not really happy with it.

Very small update on this. I checked the wiring, and it ended up being the bank 1 sensor dead. I've replaced it, thankfully I found the exact same Bosch sensor as it turns out they have changed the connectors. So he must have told me there was a problem with it and that it was only tuned with data from bank 2. Quite a long time ago now so I cannot recall what was said at the time. I've kept the sensor but I presume each sensor is calibrated, so you wouldn't just be able to cut the old connector off and switch out the new one? I did email them 2 months ago but still no response, so I'm going to my local place to get the map sorted out when I can. I did a short test log only at idle to make sure it worked and yeah both banks are correcting differently (bank 1 seems to correct half the amount).

Many thanks again Adam. I think it was something to do with the tuning, that both sensors on was causing an issue (will contact tuner, doubt he'll remember though). Yes I do recall that it was still correcting too, which doesn't seem quite right either. Appreciate your response, it makes sense and will give me some more pointed questions to ask.

Hey all, I'm just trying to adjust a few small things on my tune, initially this warm up phase seems to be too rich 0.7-0.8 on lambda 2 (I can't remember right now why I'm not using both sensors). Would you just pull more out of the warm up enrichment table - or should I be looking at something else ? Lastly, if anything else looks funky in the tune, please do say as it's been ages since I've gone over it (a lot going on over here unfortunately). Appreciate any pointers WarmUp_Rich_v001.pclr Log 2024-01-31 10_30_03 am.zip

So far it seemed to be a mix of IBP, and the idle speed lockout, my one was set to 1.2mph for some reason which seems a bit too low. Will test some more in the coming days.

Cheers for that, yeah I went back through an old set up I did, and checked against this one last night. I think it was just Idle Base Position largely, it's not quite there yet but I'll test it again over the weekend.

Hey guys, as it's been many, many months since I've delved into the ECU I cannot remember what on earth I might need to adjust slightly to get my idle to come back down to normal when coming to a stop (ie traffic lights). The idle is usually around 800rpm but it'll be around 1200ish unless I prod the throttle lightly, then it'll come back to where it should be. It doesn't happen 100% of the time but more than not, if that makes sense! This is for my DE 350z.

Fantastic, thank you for that Adam. It certainly pushes me in one direction for now, whilst on the G4+ !

I've edited the above topic to be a bit more concise with my questions, hopefully it makes more sense if anyone is able to chip in.

Probably since 2014 Cheers for the PM and replies guys

Hey Adam, I have the Vipec i88 350z p&p (just running G4+ software).

@Adamw Possible to also PM me the details for the issue with VDC and SLIP light always on? Many thanks !

Well, got the Z mapped on the G4+ finally, sooo much better (especially being able to address any small issues myself now), however it's not quite making the power I'd hoped for. Nothing bad, same as my previous essentially but of course it's a project car so in the future, I'll potentially look to improving the HP. So I'm left with a few options, trying to figure out what will work with the G4+: Install the HR upper/lower intake plenum - but these are dual throttle bodies - is this possible on the G4+ and my ecu? (I know Link sell an ethrottle controller but not sure if that would help?) Jenvey ITB's - but once again, not sure if that's possible to accomplish with the G4+? I presume the 82mm TB kit (ETB82) work with the G4+ ?

Thank you for taking time to have a peak at it, I'm really enjoying the platform and getting a glimpse at this stuff.

This is the first drive, there are a couple of seemingly high AFR spikes but not sure what's happening there (I was off the gas iirc and coming to junctions): I was really happy how this initially felt, no stalling ! Hopefully this link works? https://drive.google.com/file/d/19wjXT86scNmyDbR4eDUMffngU7vPNzJV/view?usp=sharing

Just wondering if this is basically ok as a starting point with idle/gentle blips (will hopefully log a test drive this eve) ? Cheers for any pointers ! Log 2022-06-8 1;37;14 pm.llg Nissan 350Z Manual trans twin VVT G4+_v034.pclr

Don't forget the time difference... He's in NZ mate.

Hey Tim - just wondering if you've wired your IAT sensor in yet ? I'm presuming you'll do what I intend to do, chop off the MAF plug and repurpose it for the IAT ? I'm just trying to do a little homework on what the pinout might be for the MAF, I've only found this old thread: https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/572332-iat-and-mafs-terminals-pinout.html

Just a quick question today: How do I reduce the rev flare upon initial start up ? (obviously my map is a work-in-progress!) Cheers for any pointers Nissan 350Z Manual trans twin VVT G4+_v021.pclr Log 2022-05-20 6;44;45 pm.llg

Yep, I wish I had bought one of those, I just had another style one that is adjustable but doesn't connect to the spark plug. I think I was initially getting a reading offset of -20 when I looked last, and thought, na that's got to be wrong!

Also I suspected my base timing hadn't quite been set right, so I just re-did that now. For anyone else with a 350z, I'd say its worth using a spare HT lead from the spark plug to the coilpack, and read from the HT lead rather than the tiny little wires from the back of the coilpack. Looks like my trigger offset is the same as the base map but will need to test this out at higher RPM's on the weekend

I bought this, just to test it out https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TV9M1QR I wired in the fused relay yesterday, all basic stuff if nobody else has done this before (one wire to the batt terminal, another to ground, one to a switched ignition to power the relay on/off, and the main live wire to the CAN). At first I used the same ign source as before but it didn't work, hah so then I used a fuse tap from the fuse box by the battery (for the rear lights). Then it worked as expected. I'm not overly keen on using a fuse tap but if someone has a better suggestion or just to say, don't worry it's fine, I'll continue to use it. It's all a bit temporary with crimped bullet connectors largely but I just wanted to get things working. Finally I can move onto what I was originally asking about, overly rich start up (lambda reading around 0.76, moves up to 0.96 around 75-80 ECT). So onto the process of getting it to work safely enough to drive to a tuner!

Hey Tim, possible to share your current map/log ? I only ask as I can look through it too, see what you've changed as it's interesting learning from your findings too. I forgot to ask, are you running on normal pump fuel or E85?

As mentioned, a wire to the battery direct solved the issue. I hit record just for a short time (I should have let the coolant get up to temp tbh but ran out of time!). So will order up some sort of fused relay thing, will hunt around on the forum to see how people do that as it's obviously something I've not done before. Thought I'd just sling these up just in case. Guessing something like this? https://youtu.be/KzB7StUNNuc Nissan 350Z Manual trans twin VVT G4+_v010.pclr Log 2022-05-7 7;12;22 pm.llg

Hey Adam, or anyone else. With this cable, it appears that the power/HL isn't the same as usual Link cables? Or does it twist again inside the plastic block? Ie: on the male connector, pins 1 & 2 look like they go to the ECU for H L. And pins 3 & 4 look like power ground. Obviously that would cause me some issues if that's the case hah . This morning I've gone through the cables, recharged the battery, tightened a slightly loose negative ground from the battery terminal to the chassis. Confirmed the polarity of a 22uf capacitor (was a just in case usage). And then looked at this cable, which is the last thing I can think of. EDIT: Ignore that, apologies. Checked with a multimeter, confirmed that it's exactly like the manuals. My wiring is the same, with the right wiring from the Haltech cable to the CANJST. Same thing happens, go to start and a moment before the car starts it switches off the sensors. I'll try running a temporary cable to the battery next. I may also try the resistor just after the CAN unit too. EDIT 02: Ah ha, wire direct to the battery keeps them running! So now need to figure out how to set that up.