RobPhoboS

using a pair of can lambda's?
 
You can order the correct lambda sensors for the Link Can lambda for replacemnts
 

Yes, mixture map can be used from road logs.  Set up a Transient filter Eng speed < 250rpm/sec and another with TP<5/sec will get rid of a lot of the inconsistent data. 
Here's a video I done for someone else earlier with some further info:  https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPszz5hTxJ8ec0MitL?e=2JbDVh

^Unless you meant to say "less than" in the statement above. that transient filter would explain why you're not getting many cells filled, not your driving technique. Here's a screenshot of the settings I've been using on my G4+ mixture map, so far it's been working pretty good.
Some explanation of my settings - with caveat that I'm a newbie at this too, I'm sure the Link gurus will chime in with possibly better suggestions for us
- On minimum samples, I have 10 in there initially, but to get a better result you really should have more samples. Of course doing so populates fewer cells given the same data log
- For "Active Zone" I've been using 50%; going smaller gets less samples and going larger gets you more samples. Not 100% sure what the trade-off is though; my understanding is that a smaller active zone % gets you closer to the center of the cell thus the accuracy of the fuel correction calculated is better?
- On the conditional filters, I set ECT (coolant temp) to be greater than 180*F, which ensures it ignores any data samples until my engine is at operating temp, and all the warmup enrichment is zeroed out. I also set another conditional filter for Overrun Fuel Cut status <0.5, which ensures that it ignores data collected while the car is in overrun fuel cut (status =1), as it would skew the fuel corrections as well.
- For the transient filters, since my car has a DBW throttle, I use AP (accelerator position) <10 units/second. That way it will only use data collected while I had a steady foot on the throttle - you want to avoid abrupt throttle changes and the resulting accel enrichments during the transients
 

My bad.  It's called "Hold Step" in the G4+.

G4+  doesnt have dashpot like G4X does far more basic idle set up
 

Too much idle base or too much dashpot offset usually.  Also double check the APS/TPS threshold and make sure you don't have something out of calibration.

The Thunder is the only G4+ that can do dual E-throttle.  
ITB's with cable or a single E-throttle actuator would be ok.  
Yes the Bosch throttle bodies would be no drama too.

Ok, havent sold those for even longer...  I will send you a PM.  
 

The fix for me(thanks to Adam's input) was to start the ABS computer a bit later. This can be done by adding a relay between te power wire of the ABS computer and let the ECU switch the relay so that the ABS computer gets power cycled. Hope this helps.
 
Kind regards,
 
Vincent

I believe the solution is to put a 5pin relay in the ignition circuit:
Is it this??  If it is, send Adam thanks bc he’s the one that helped me!  
 

Yeah looks ok as a starting point.  The spikes in lambda are overrun fuel cut.  

@RobPhoboS Not yet, mate. I've got a few weekends of distraction ahead of me and then I'll begin installing the blower. At that point I'll be doing exactly what you're doing.
That said, I've got my ECU connector opened up right now so when I get a moment I'll see if I can ID the colours.
@Vaughan Speaking of, I'm trying to add my oil pressure sensor to the G4x. It's via an AEM X-series gauge (30-0307) which has 0-5V analog + - out. I spliced + into pin 16 (An Volt 11) and - to pin 78 (Ground 02 signal).
The ECU has recognised it, but it's reading too high. At cold start it's reading 120psi, where the gauge is reading closer to 80. As it warms up I'm seeing ~80 on the ECU and ~50 on the gauge. You get the idea.


My fuel pressure sensor shares the same voltage/pressure scaling (which you can see above is correct for the supposed voltage) so I've set them both to reference the same calibration table:

Any idea what's going on here? Is this an issue with my chosen negative pin?

Maybe try looking at the wire colours out of the ecu and matching them up to MAF wires?

@Jenno007 you're dead right that your idle control timing is a big part of your problem. The other part is understanding all the numbers that add up to what the ecu uses for its "ethrottle target".
First up, idle timing:
the idle timing doesnt really "take away" 24 degrees of timing. What it does is throw out your ign1 table, and use its own idle table when ign idle control is active. If you look at ignition>ignition idle table, you will see the values that it will use for ign angle when it is active. The top axis is "current RPM relative to target RPM". So looking at this, when you are on idle target, (0 error column), you will have 8 deg of ignition. When you are 500 or more RPM above idle target, you will run at 4deg ignition - which is probably not enough to keep it running hence the near stalling condition. Now from a dynamic viewpoint, when you RPM is dropping but its above your 1500RPM ign idle lockout, you run at your ign1 tabel values (about 29deg), and beacuse of some quirks in your ethrottle config which i'll get to later, about 5% open throttle (hence the slow rate of rpm drop). Now at some point you drop to 1499RPM and ign idle kicks in, and your ign angle changes from 29 deg from ign1 table to "you're 299RPM over the 1200 RPM target, I need to drag that RPM down by making ign advance only 4deg". your ign control values for "above target" are really low, so it basially takes away all power from your engine until you get down to 1200rpm, then it tries to "catch"  it when you drop under 1200RPM by ramping up your ign angle to the values on the right on the ign idle target.  Making the right hand "catch" values higher has helped but is a bit like an ambulance at the bottom of the cliff. To "fix" this properly you need to adjust your ign table and ign idle values so that there is a much more gradual transition from the main ign1 table values, to those in your ign idle table. Before we do this though, id suggest you decide what angle you want it to idle at. most engines OEM are between 10 and 20 deg. 15 is probably a good number if you have no idea.  Note that things are going to get worse before they get better because with 15 deg at idle, your 5-6% ethrottle effective target is too high and you will idle at 1700 or something. 
First up, grab you ign1 table and add in a 1250 or 1300 rpm column. interpolate it horizontally if it doesnt do it for you. then set the values in the 1250 column for any MAP at 60 or below to the same as those in the 1000 column. This 1000 column is actually roughly set up correctly for a "normal" idle, but your 1200 target is too high to hit it. 
Now disable ign idle control, set your throttle idle control to open loop, and see how you go. it should now idle quite a bit higher. Change the idle base position throttle target value up or down until you get the idle value you want. Now set the 0 column of your ignition idle table to whatever value you are currently idling at - probably 15-16. (this should match your ign1 table value). Note that there is now effectively no "jump" when ign idle comes on or off. Now set the over and under column of ign idle table so it tapers up and down by probably 2 or 3 deg for each column. You may need to adjust the aggressiveness of the change rate in this table later but 2 deg per column is a good starting point. You can now enable ign idle control again but you shouldnt notice any change when you do.
Now with ethrottle idle still on open loop, sort out your idle base position table so that its the same shape your have now - roughly flat above 70-80deg ECT and 0.2 or 0.3 gain per 10 deg below that. Start from whatever position you used above to get the idle right, its probably 70-80deg if it was warm, and shape the table from here. Now see how it handles throttle blips now that the idle ign table isnt trying to stall it all the time.
Your ethrottle target is the next thing to understand before you turn it back to closed loop or make too many changes. 
The commanded TPS value ("ethrottle 1 target" in logs) is made up of:
the number in the ethrottle 1 taraget table "ethrottle 1 base target" PLUS
the idle base position number "ethrottle 1 ISC offset" PLUS
the calculated ethrottle closed loop idle adjustment "ethrottle 1 ISC CL trim"
So in your case, pretty much all of these values are 2% (give or take), but because there are 3 of them added together, your target TPS value is 6-7% all the time (not the 2.5-3% you think you have from the APS target table. co-incidentally, this is a very good reason not to use APS% as your fuel main target - the ECU is pretty much never actually giving you the TPS% target you asked for anyway. Some of these numbers stop being added in once you get above the various idle thresholds, some of them dont (or are seemingly on timers so they drop off a few seconds after you break idle threshold)
With a 15deg idle, you probably want your TPS to be between 3-4% at idle but you'll figure this out for your engine through trial and error, and for general driveability, you want it to get to 0 when you let off the throttle above say 3k. Once you have it idling nicely from the above process, open up a log and see what actual TPS/ethrottle target you are running at. write this down somewhere. From here on you can pretty much take any path you like as far as which of the ethrottle adjustments you make which sizes, as long as they add up to this 3-4% figure you need. (eg it makes no difference if you are 0% APS table with 3.5% base idle target, or the other way around). Just bear in mind that the APS% table can only be accurate to 0.5% but the idle base target can be accurate to 0.1% plus it can change with ECT, so you will need values in here for the colder ECT temps even if you have it at 0 for "normal". 
To tune the base idle table, let the car cool down compeltely, start it up, then start a log with idle target and current RPM visible. dont touch the throttle or anything else in the car, but just let it warm up, and as the ect gets to each 10 deg point exactly, bump ONLY that value in the idle base table up or down a coupel points at a time until you hit your target idle for that ECT. You need to be quite quick as you dont want it interpolating too much from the next cells if it gets a deg or 2 higher. Once you have that cell tuned, wait another 2 min and just let the idle go high/low until you get ECT up to the next 10 deg marker. 
Once you've run through all of this, post another log and pclr file please. still with ethrottle idle in open loop mode.
 

Reduce the startup step.  >Idle speed control>Idle up tables>Start up step table. 

Thanks Adam. Now to figure out how to pull the ECU harness apart...

There are spark testers that work great for a go between the coil packs and plug for this purpose.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-20610?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwspKUBhCvARIsAB2IYuubY5BMnLaTSMPSIGbTxDrAi7mZArUMIpoiCzsl8UYXEhQR2nZ96iQaAk8KEALw_wcB

@RobPhoboS Just saw this post now, mate. I haven't been running a resistor while the WB2 is the only device on that BUS and it's been functioning fine. I was only going to add a resistor when I was looking to extend the BUS to add my gauges, but their bitrate put the kybosh on it. So, still running just the WB2 with no resistor without issue.

I have found it varies a bit with the drivers style.   I have it set to 20kmh in my car as I tend to push in the clutch and coast up to traffic lights etc.  So I want idle control to kick in and get the idle speed correct while im coasting. 
But in the past I have set up something similar on other cars that I have tuned and I would have the odd guy come back saying "my car stalls all the time coming up to lights".  Then I would test drive it forever and couldnt get it to happen.  I got one guy to take me for a drive one day and I found he would have the clutch out with the wheels driving the engine almost right up to the stop and only push in the clutch at the last second.  So with the ISC kicking in at say 20kmh while the engine was being driven by the wheels, the ecu would close the valve more and more trying to get the RPM down, then when the clutch went in and there was no drive acting on the engine it would instantly stall as the idle valve was too closed.  For these types of drivers the speed lockout needs to be lower - something like 10kmh.  

Looks more like a wiring issue if you get those errors when Lambdas are plugged in and engine is running.  

Yeah, Lambdas not working is very odd, they are not reporting an error either.  I suspect they will come back to life next power cycle. 
If you think it is still too rich then just lower the master further.  

If it fires and runs for only a few seconds that usually means there is not enough fuel, there is only enough to run when the extra crank enrichment fuel is present so as soon as that stops the engine stops.  Increase the master fuel value.  

It should start and run with the offset in the base map - it just needs to be confirmed before putting it under any load.  

You should have no analog inputs set to Lambda, turn AN 10 & 11 off.  

No it wont be the resistor, something is not set up right by the sound of it.  
Yes resistor should be after or at the connection to the WB2, but you will probably find it will work fine without one.  I know Haltech never use proper termination on their CAN bus.