Jappachino

Yeah these TPS's are spring loaded, but when I uninstalled the factory tps for the new one it didn't have any grease on it as far as I could tell... The TPS is brand new though. Maybe I will try tweaking the position of the tps sensor and recalibrate. Is there something on the ignition control side acting up causing this?

OK I finally drove around town enough that I got my fuel light to come on, and tossed in a full tank of high octane (pump) gas! Here's the log of a bit more spirited night time drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X7DUmYTSHUCELXaFF5Vh0azhLgU753n7/view?usp=sharing What I noticed: - At the beginning, I blip the throttle and the RPM drops way below target (~600RPM) then comes back up. What would be the rough procedure of tweaking the dashpot, is there a certain order of the values I tweak to get a good result? - When I'm off throttle, I noticed there is a lot of popping and subtle burbling going on, is that normal? - There definitely is an undershoot of the RPM's when I clutch in at some lights, I noticed this happens when I clutch in early after seeing the light turn red ahead of me. If I keep the clutch engaged until I'm almost stopped, the undershoot happens less. Is this just a driving style I need to adapt? - At the VERY end you can see the idle RPM got stuck at around 1400RPM when I stopped after parking, and I had to blip the throttle to get it back down. What would be the culprit of this? Thanks in advance.

Tired your 2nd tune, I felt like the rev hang is still the same but now the idle undershoots off-clutch, and now going back on throttle is a bit lazy when upshifting? It was a pretty short drive, but log here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KyKGBqnsTElTV07iZXP-Th5Njg2hUXak/view?usp=sharing

Aaand just as I sent that and hopped into my car for a quick drive, my idle started undershooting when I clutch out. I will try to log that later tonight when I am back in the car.

Ok here are two logs of just city driving. Idling is much better, I think it's basically there. Logs here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FFxAHQKNQPAD38ZqWClTYjIivi197f74?usp=sharing One thing I had to tweak was the RPM lockout, having it at 400 made the revs just hold when I blipped it at idle... I reset it to the 1100RPM I had it at and the car seems happy, no undershoots when clutching out for a stop. Also this may be a really dumb question, is it normal for my lambda to occasionally spike to 1.2-1.6 while driving? I noticed my car always did that, I just wanted to double check that my lambda values look normal to you.

Oh one thing @Adamw, I'm sure you noticed that my e-throttle range is set from 2% to 98%... I was talking to a few Altezza owners and they suggested doing this, as the teeth of the e-throttle's internal gears get shredded off when it slams into each end of the stops. Did this affect it by any chance? One of the guys I was talking to had a Beams swapped vehicle running on a link G4x. He set his e-throttle's clutch system up to a GP PWM table instead of a flat frequency as below: He told me that the Toyota e-throttle clutch system works at 500Hz and he basically made it so that at 0% and 100%, the magnetic clutch is JUST strong enough to open and close the plate, but will allow a little bit of slip if it slams into the stops, saving the internal gears which I've shredded off in 2 throttle bodies. I tried setting this up in my tune too, if you look in auxiliary outputs > GP output > GP PWM 1 and set the output to Aux 7, the table is there. However when I do this, my G4x tells me that the e-throttle is setup incorrectly and the e-throttle is disabled... How do I go about having this work?

Hi, I'm experiencing some odd issues with my car right now where the car jerks when I am at low-ish RPM's (1200-1600ish) My log and current tune attached: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1BA6GsKF4p1TDm9g5rqUjZCqe9HfGap90?usp=sharing At around 5:20 you see a slight case of it doing the odd RPM jerk, and it was ESPECIALLY bad at around 6:50, the car jerks so hard that it moves my body and makes me hit the throttle a bit too... I noticed a few things: - My lambda is hitting OVER 2.0 at certain times... Should I refrain from driving the car in this state?? - I had the car parked for way longer than anticipated to figure out some idling issues, and I have ~4 month old fuel and I am trying to burn it off by driving around town at low RPM's (under 4,000)... Would the old fuel be a cause of this?? - I was talking to a person I got to know who has a VERY modified turbo Altezza helping me figure out the idle issues (My car is N/A, very mild modifications). Taking reference from his tune, I changed the idle ignition MINIMUM clamp to 5 degrees BTDC instead of the 0 degrees I had on my original tune which had the unstable idle. Could this also be the culprit? Thanks!

Before I go full mechanical TB + remote ICV, I had a friend who sold me his Altezza e-throttle for cheap so I thought I may aswell give it one last shot... While doing research on this and asking questions on some beams swap facebook groups, many people said that the stock e-throttle isn't bad at all once the PID settings are dialed in. I cleaned everything up, put everything together and am back at attempting to tweak the PID settings again. Logs of fluctuating the pedal with different P, I and D settings (the numbers in the file name are P, I and D respectively) and tune file here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16Utm1ULZhPRNpLD4FmD45P9I6GkVH-PA?usp=sharing I got a few questions: 1. This throttle body seems like it has not been tampered with, and the paint pen marks are on all the adjustments screws. I noticed that, with the e-throttle powered down and throttle plate resting on the stopper, the TPS reading is around 4.2%. I've not started my car up with the new throttle body yet as I want to dial in the PID values first, but on my Idle base position table I have the target tps% being at 2.0% at temp. As it's physically impossible for the plate to close further than 4.2%, should I bump it up to something ABOVE that? 2. I ran the e-throttle with the engine off by putting it in "run throttle" when stalled, and started logging how the TPS and APS track when I fluctuate the pedal. I noticed that when I quickly open it to 100%, the throttle plate seems to slam open and flutter a little MECHANICALLY (not the dbw motor making it flutter). You can see this in "PID 7 0.080 45.llgx" at around 0:06.8. Is this normal? 3. I see that in almost all of the logs I did, the tps seems to over/undershoot my APS movement. is this due to my Proportional gain being too high? Should I lower this value? 4. I've gone through two throttle bodies already, both with the exact same problem where the internal gear teeth of the dbw mechanism shears straight off. BOTH of them sheared off right where the throttle plate is in its closed position, what would cause this? Thanks,

Hey@Adamw, All my parts came in so I am going to slowly work on integrating everything to get this ICV to work. I gutted the dbw motor out of my throttle body, installed a mechanical override to make my pedal actuate the throttle plate movement fully and put it all back together. I wanted to see if I can run my car with manual idle for now, but then realized - if I recalibrate my TPS in this state, when the link sees the "0% TPS" value, my throttle plate is actually ever so slightly open as it was set from factory (the paint pen mark is still on the adjuster). Is this okay to have 0% as a position that is actually cracked a little open? Following up on above, assuming that it IS okay to have the throttle cracked open a bit with the set screw, I was thinking of manually idling my car up to temp, then adjusting the setscrew to a position where my car can comfortably idle at 750-800RPM when everything is at normal operating temperatures. I assume that the ICV only opens when either the engine is cold or there are external loads (A/C or power steering load), and otherwise stays closed for regular operation. Is my assumption correct? Thanks in advance!

Ah, didn't think about the effect on crankcase ventilation. I don't really want to risk increasing the crankcase pressure, so I will do it properly and get a bung welded in. Thanks!

Would it be a bad idea if I tee in the ICV into my crankcase breather hose? I've installed an Air Oil Separator into my system so it goes Crankcase > PCV > AOS > back into intake plenum - Could I add a tee into the hose coming from the AOS into the plenum and connect my ICV there? Or is it better practice to have a connection that is a dedicated line for the ICV? The photo isnt the best, its a frame from a video I took of it. I'm talking about teeing into the blue hose, that is post-filter "clean" air going back into the plenum, and the PCV on my crankcase makes it so that backflow is not possible. Thanks, Dylan That blue hose connects into here:

Awesome, thanks again @Adamw!!

Oh, I thought it would be aux 9/10 and a ground?

Hi guys, Long story short, I've been wrestling for about half a year to get my 1998 Altezza's stock half-DBW, half mechanical throttle system to idle properly and also track nicely with my link ECU (Altezzalink G4x), but 2 throttle bodies later (somehow the internal gears sheared off on BOTH TB's ), I'm looking to convert my throttle body to be fully mechanical (I have a kit made by premium Japan that converts my throttle to be mechanically operated) and have the idle control done by a remote Idle speed control valve. The OEM e-throttle system relied on the dbw motor to do the idle control, but now that I am disabling the dbw motor and locking out the throttle plate to be only driven by my pedal, I will need an ICV. I got a few questions... I'm looking at this kit by driftmotion Here, as it looks like everything for the valve side is conveniently packaged, and all I think I would need to do is weld in an AN bung somewhere downstream of the throttle body, run a short hose from that bung to this ICV, then wire it up to command it using my ECU. 1. Regarding the location of the bung on the intake plenum, would one of these locations work (or is there somewhere better you guys would suggest): a) On the inner side of the plenum, close to the back of the TB: b) on the top side of the plenum behind the TB (would this be too close to cylinder 1? Would that cause problems for cylinder 1's mixture at idle?) 2. I am hoping to use the AUX 9 or 10 connection (Currently the dbw motor + and -) to command the ford solenoid that comes with the kit, I checked in the link software that indeed I can allocate either one of those as an output for the ICV solenoid (see below). The location of the harness for it is very convenient for where I am planning to install the ICV, and the male connector to the harness side is easy to get. This way I can revert back to the stock setup if I ever want to. Is this as easy as wiring it up and setting the correct output for it? Or is there something more complicated to it for the wiring I need to know? 3. I know that on stock vehicles that have ICV's, the throttle plate's stopper needs to be adjusted ever so slightly open so that the car can KIND OF run even if the ICV fails. Is there a rule of thumb of what this position should be adjusted to? Should I adjust it so that with the ICV disabled, the car can idle smoothly in normal operating temperatures? Any input is appreciated, thank you in advance! The gears that gave up on me:

So I had this EXACT problem when the RPM spiked up, held, then went into limp mode, also had no brakes even when the engine was running... Did you ever get to the bottom of this @lity? My throttle body is JAMMED shut right now, even with the motor power taken off... I wonder if the dbw motor itself got physically jammed inside...