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J Gonzales

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  1. In the vvt target tables with the y axis as MAP in kpa and the y as rpm, it wont allow a value lower than 46, when there should be a lot of numbers lower than this.
  2. I was told a while ago that I could make rudimentary adjustments to the fuel input by adjusting the engine displacement to scale down the fuel values, and Ive tried this at varying percentages of the displacement, 75%, 50%, and on down to a quarter. As long as this is true, that should have given me an answer on correct fuel proportions right? I bet the uncalibrated ECT, IAT and Lamda all have an impact but cutting down the displacement should have worked at some point Id think, granted I could be very wrong. I have the link canlam setup, but I haven't set up the calibration for it or the Link NTC IAT. The ECT is just the factory one.
  3. Sorry for the delay in my reply, here is the log of it cranking, and the base tune I got from Davidv. PC Datalog 3sge Redtop - 2022-05-20 11;33;00 am.llgx Redtop 3SGE base tune.pclx
  4. Similar to DualMonocles no spark no ideas problem, Im not getting any spark under cranking. I get spark on the test feature, but none under cranking. All of the accessories work and continue to work under cranking, as does injection, just spark falls off once the starter activates. The injectors and ignition coils are on the same circuit using the same power source, so this is pretty confusing to me. One thing worth mentioning is that I have not 100% verified that the injectors work under cranking, but I can smell fuel so unless I have an unidentified fuel leak I'd have to say the injectors are working. The Ignition coils are grounded, have signal, and are receiving a consistent 11.8-12 volts. The only thing I could think of is that I have the Ignition coils ground with 2 relays so maybe this is causing interference? Thanks, any help is appreciated.
  5. Another question, if the ecu is to control the ground of a relay, how would I wire in the tach converter correctly, as it needs a signal from the ecu. It essentially functions as a relay, having a +12v, gnd, sig in and sig out to the tacho.
  6. Okay that makes more sense. Looks like ive got some work to do. Thanks.
  7. Im not well versed in ecu stuff so this doesnt make much sense to me. Why would it read 12v when off but not when on? What do you mean by switches the ground signal? Am I supposed to control accessories by relaying their ground instead of their power supply? Whats the difference between an ignition and permanent feed?
  8. When I turn on the test feature for radiator fans, ce light, tach converter, or fuel pump i read 0v on the signal wire from the ecu, but when I turn it off on the test feature it reads 12v. Not sure why this is happening. Maybe its made to control normally closed relays?
  9. Thanks, I tried it out but nothing changed. It appears that I'm not getting spark under cranking.
  10. Ok, so I've confirmed I'm getting spark, fuel, air and the engine is in proper cam timing. But it still won't fire. The only thing I can think of is that its "360 degrees out" and according to the engine won't start article to fix this you subtract 360 degrees from your base timing if it is a positive number, so mine would be -350 degrees, but it does not allow you to enter any number unless it is between 30 and -30 degrees. I'm not sure what to do here, any help is appreciated.
  11. I sprayed some starter fluid in while cranking and it didn't change anything. So I guess it is a spark problem. But, my wiring is solid, the ignition coils have power, they are grounded, and they have signal from the ecu. There's no way the coils are broken as they are brand new. Is it possible the ecu is at fault? I got it to run on cylinder one again, but nothing on 2, 3 and 4.
  12. Im amazed I didn't think of that. I was just about to start pulling stuff apart, thanks for saving me some time and frustration. But if it is a fuel related issue, would the 330cc/min 2jz injectors cause a very big difference, or would I just have to shorten the injector pulse a little bit?
  13. I redtop beams swapped my celica and finally got it running, but only on one cylinder. At first I thought it was due to crappy wiring on my part but I've found that's not the problem. I've pretty much eliminated it to a fuel related problem, and I think my injectors are either broken or clogged, but I haven't fully tested them yet. The stock injectors for the beams are rated at 315cc/min. I happen to have some injectors from a N/A 2jz laying around and they flow 330cc/min. I was wondering if it would be worth it to swap these in instead of replacing/cleaning my stock beams injectors, if there would be any advantage to running these, and any major differences I would have to change in the ecu, which is a g4x monsoonx. Thanks. also, I believe it to be a fuel injector problem because it only runs on cylinder one, and the fuel input is closest to cylinder 4, but it doesn't fire on any cylinder but the farthest from the input, so all the injectors are receiving flow, but not putting it out.
  14. Thanks, I really appreciate the help. I got it to run by knocking the displacement down from 1998cc to 1000cc, but it ran rich and miss fired a lot. I grabbed the headers to get a rough deduction of which cylinders it ran on and by what I could tell, cylinder one was hot and so was 2, but no heat on the runners from 3 and 4. This might be due to my wiring as there was a connector that came apart but I put it back together again so its possible it came apart again. The unburnt fuel smell was probably because it wasnt firing on cylinder three and four
  15. Ok, I also messed around a bit and tested the camshaft position sensor for pos/neg wires and got it wired up right, and the engine fired twice. Ill attach the trigger scope along with a log of the time it fired if that will help. TriggerScopeLo5g.llgx PC Datalog - 2021-08-28 6;40;30 pm.llgx
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