fast4motion

Thanks Adam, that's even better than I'd planned. The decreasing RPM's could make a thief think that they're running out of fuel, and not look for an immobiliser. If the relay/fuse box wasn't already maxxed out, I could even wire a relay so the fuel gauge drops to empty when the immobiliser is activated. Could you please confirm a few things for me regarding the older G4 Link capabilities before I finalise and begin installing the wiring loom. I've been playing with PC Link G4 (not connected to the ECU), and some of the set-up is quite a bit different to the G4X. 1. I want to use Aux3 for the CEL light, but also want it to be the Oil Pressure light (switched by the Link). I know it's possible on a G4X, but can I do this with the G4, presumably using a Virtual Aux for the Oil Pressure, and have it output a constant ground on Aux3 when oil pressure is low? 2. I have a switch wired to DI1 to turn on the radiator fan manually, in addition to the Link controlling the fan. The car has a Line Locker which I want to wire to DI2, and have the Link turn the radiator fan on when the Line Locker is engaged. So 12V on DI1 turns the fan on, or 12V on DI2 also turns the fan on, and fan is also temp controlled. Is this possible? Looking at PC Link G4 it appears to have 3 Virtual Aux Outputs, and I'm worried about having too many overlapping/conflicting inputs and outputs (kill switch, oil pressure/CEL, fan switch, linelock-fan switch). 3. I planned on wiring and configuring Temp 1 as ECT, Temp 2 as IAT, and AN Volt 4 as Oil Temp with a pull-up resistor. However the car has an aftermarket CAN digital display, and I just read this thread on the G4+: I prefer to wire tuning related sensors like IAT to dedicated AN Temp inputs. Should I continue wiring as planned, or should I swap Oil Temp and IAT inputs to make it easier to display the Oil Temp on the digital display? Does it matter either way? Thanks.

I'm currently wiring a Link RX in an older rotary vehicle with aftermarket injection, and would like some advice on immobilizer options with the Link. 1. I'd like to wire a kill switch to a Link DI, which will prevent the engine from firing when trying to start it, but the switch input will be ignored once the engine is running (above certain rpm), so inadvertent switch operation won't shut the engine off while driving. I'm sure I've read in the past that this can be done on the G4X, but want to confirm it can also be done on the older G4? 2. I'm also wiring in a GPS tracker, with remote immobilizer/shut-down function via phone app if the vehicle is stolen. The instructions say to only connect it to a starter relay to prevent engine start (so it doesn't create a crash/safety risk by shutting off the engine while driving if it was connected to the Ignition relay), but this isn't much use while the vehicle is being driven away by thieves. So, in tandem with the starter relay, I'd also like to wire it to a Link DI so it goes into limp mode or engages a soft rev limiter or similar. Ideally, I'd like it to then shut the engine off after about 30 seconds of limp mode, so there's time to pull over safely and then the engine won't restart. Is this possible to have the Link shut down the engine after a set period of limp mode? Also keen to hear opinions on the pros and cons of shutting the engine down remotely, versus just remotely disabling the starter motor (which still won't prevent it being push started, or a screwdriver across the starter terminals). ETA: Just realised this might be the wrong forum, and maybe it should be in the Historic G4 forum, so please move if appropriate.

Finally got the flywheel back from being balanced. I installed it and temporarily fitted the crankcase, then rotated the engine by hand to check the teeth don't hit the crank sensor. Unfortunately, because the sensor is internal to the crankcase cover, I can't see or measure the gap to the teeth. I'm hoping the level readings on a triggerscope will show if it's adequate or if the gap needs to be closed up, in which case I plan on slotting the mounting bracket hole for the sensor a little at a time. Could you please have a look at the attached triggerscope and let me know your thoughts. When I was cranking I could see the MAP signal (ANV1) drop every 720deg on the triggerscope, but don't know how to view it when I open the saved file so haven't touched the MAP offset. I'm also not sure if the the CAS is wired correctly, or if I need to reverse the wires, so I'm hoping you can tell from the triggerscope signal? Thanks TriggerScopeLog6.llgx Vmax.pclx

I've modified the flywheel as you suggested, and it's currently at the machinists having the bolt heads skimmed down and then balanced. We also bought some R35 coils, which will be fitted with shorter stalks, so thanks again for the advice. I'm in the process of rewiring the bike and wiring in the Link. I want to eliminate some of the complicated factory wiring and relays, and wire the sidestand switch and neutral switch directly into one of the Link Digital Inputs, so the Link will stop the engine if the bike is put in gear while the sidestand is down. The logic will be: Gnd at DI input = run; Open circuit at DI input = stop. Before I get too far through wiring it up, could you please confirm that this logic will work? Thanks.

Thanks Adamw. The bike owner had given up on the EFI, so tell your boss you're owed the commission on the sale of a G4x Atom, thanks to your input and the technical advice on the Link forums. I'm in the process of removing the flywheel in order to modify it exactly as you suggested. We're going to run COP using smart coils, as it's the easiest option given the space constraints on the bike. We're considering either R35 or 1NZ type coils, as I've got friends with them which I've wired up with Link ECUs, so can borrow them to check physical fitment. Do you have any advice or anything we should consider when selecting coils?

Thanks for the reply. Great idea regarding the hex screws, as that's something I could do myself at work. And the factory sensor could be retained in its original mounting position if we use bolts with heads the same height as the old teeth. I'm assuming a capscrew would be best because of the uniform outer diameter, and the hex hole in the centre would be small enough to either not be detected by the crank sensor, or any fluctuation caused by it could be ignored via trigger level settings? I'm worried that if I used normal bolts, they could cause erratic readings depending on differences in head orientation when they're tightened (ie. if the sensor is first presented with the flat or point of a bolt head as it passes). Or am I overthinking it? I'd be using the MAP signal as sync connected to #1 ITB. Is it best to have the missing tooth 90 degrees from #1 TDC? Thanks.

Hi Adam, did you have a chance to talk to the firmware team? I was thinking that if the long tooth is a problem, I could have it machined down to the same length as the other teeth and then rebalance the flywheel. But I'm assuming that the main problem is the uneven tooth pattern?

Yes, it's a 70deg V4 and the firing angles you've stated are correct. It's the factory wheel, which is usually only used by the ignition controller for (wasted) spark timing, in conjunction with a factory vacuum sensor for controlling advance. I believe it's a 2-wire sensor, so that would suggest it's VR? In my previous research, I found someone talking about utilising both the rising and falling edges of the teeth to determine which is the long tooth, and using that for sync instead of the usual missing tooth. I've attached a few pics I found of the "flywheel". The bottom right of the engine pic shows the inside of the crankcase cover, so for orientation, the stator sits inside the flywheel cavity when fitted. Don't be confused by the notches (which look like trigger teeth) above the flywheel in that pic, as it's just an oil baffle plate.

Short Version: Can the Link Atom trigger from a crank/flywheel with a tooth pattern like the attached picture and description? Engine is an oddfire V4, hence the uneven tooth spacing. Long Version: It's a motorbike which was converted from carbs to injection with ITBs many years ago, but has never run well since. The factory crank trigger is used by an ignition controller, which runs wasted spark. Currently a coil signal is used to trigger an unknown brand fuel-only ECU, which runs batch fire injection. We'd like to fit a Link with sequential injection, and use it to control spark as well, but we're worried about how to trigger it. If the Link can operate from the current crank pattern, I'd look at fitting a cam position sensor to synch it, hopefully picking up on a factory hole at the end of one of the camshafts. I've also heard of using a MAP sensor connected to just one ITB to provide a pulse to synch the ECU when cranking. Is this a possibility if I can't use the cam? If we can't use the factory crank pattern, the only thing I can think of is to remove the flywheel and have the teeth machined off. Then either drill a series of holes around the flywheel, or somehow attach a trigger wheel. Problem being it's all internal to the crankcase, and incorporates the rotor for the alternator, so would be very difficult compared to a car flywheel/crank pulley. I'd love to hear any other options.

I'm just the wiring guy (at cost for a mate), and had nothing to do with the install, so my job was completed over a week ago. After that I was just a mate trying to help configure the ECU for start-up while it was in my garage, as he wouldn't know where to start, or be able to do it if shown - it's just not his thing. And while I don't have much experience (and none in mapping), I can configure inputs and outputs and follow instructions given on here, so was hoping to get it running on the base map and resolve any possible issues in preparation for professional tuning (which he's agreed it'll need).

He's taken it back thankfully. He did find an open port under the manifold which made a slight improvement when capped, but the revs still climbed. He then found some damage to the intake gasket which looked like it might leak, but I haven't heard anything since. Would you recommend installing an IACV?

Unfortunately some people only want to spend money on brand names and visible bling, and not the essential hidden items (like a professional tune, or wiring upgrades on a 45yr old car). And it's usually those same people who ignore knowledgeable advice in favour of anything which will cost less. There's an aftermarket vacuum manifold connected to the ITBs which feeds the FPR and MAP sensor, and a spare Link aux o/p wire already in the engine bay, so I could suggest he plumbs in a 2-wire IACV if it's a worthwhile investment? If I knew who'll be performing the tune I'd ask their preference and they could help convince him.

Thanks. I'll probably get him to take it home and sort out any vacuum leaks first, then see how it runs and also try that modified file. While I understand how all the ECU/engine sensors work, I have no experience in ECU tuning or configuring, or what values are to be expected for many parameters, so appreciate everyones advice. The owner thought I could just wire in the Link and he'd be off driving perfectly on the base tune (with random ITB's). I had to convince him it'd need to be professionally tuned, but I was hoping the base tune would get it to a stage where it could at least be safely driven on/off a trailer. Hopefully this will still be the case once the vacuum issues and some settings are sorted. I remember reading that setting tacho max to 0 RPM is the same as having no maximum. Tacho was working, so all good there.

I also suspected there's a vacuum leak, but thought I'd also get as much advice on the log file as possible on here before I get my mate (the owner) to take it away. I think the ITB's are second hand. They have thread locker on all the adjustment screws/stops which makes me suspect they've been synced in the past but not on this motor. I was supposed to just wire in the Link, which I've done, but have been roped into getting it running because he has no idea and I want the space back in my garage. I didn't even know he'd fitted ITB's until he dropped it off! I should've clarified that the engine was probably around 1500rpm when I had the timing light on it showing 15°btdc. I was going to alter the trigger offset by 5° but it started revving before I had a chance. There is no Lambda sensor. I wondered about the TPS signal, because I calibrated it a few times, and each time it showed around 0.6V closed, while the calibration table showed 0.95V as you pointed out. But the Help Browser gave me the impression that the 0.95V figure is for an electronic throttle control. The TPS voltage has always increased smoothly and consistently when I depress the throttle. But the engine needs at least half throttle when cranking in order to start, or else it doesn't even attempt to fire. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the ITB's, or with the tune/software configuration.

I wasn't moving the throttle during that log. The TPS was calibrated, but I think the extra return spring he added was causing an inconsistent closed position. It starts and runs now, but needs quite a bit of throttle to get started. It'll idle high and quite roughly, then idle will drop a bit and smooth out, before revving up on its own to 3000rpm+ before I shut it off. I've attached a PC Log. Sorry, but I had nothing to do with the ITB installation so can't guarantee that they're set up correctly. I could only get the timing light on it when it was already idling high, and it was showing 15°btdc. PC Datalog - 2023-04-7 6;09;47 pm.llgx