jason_voyles

Update, I have since put new spark plugs in that were the same brand and heat range that the previous plugs were gapped to the same specs just to rule it out. I went through and run the car with the wideband disconnected from the ecu. no change. I bypassed the boost controller so it was on gate. No change. I reset the tps again and check voltage everything okay. No Change. I check spark on all plugs they were correct as well as the firing order for the injectors. I checked for boost leaks up to 30psi everything held. I tried a different wideband sensor no effect. I turned off the idle control no difference. I turned of vvt no good. I upped the fuel no change. I leaned out the fuel master no change. I checked the logs for ignition and fuel cut or corrections everything is were I have them set to. Physical timing is good. All grounds fuses and voltage is okay. I have done possibly everything I can think of and still nothing as soon as I get high up in the revs and start to hit positive boost pressure the hard cut occurs. I would say anything around 10psi and up and and up in the rpms. It only does this under load it does not break up with idle revving even at rev limiter. I am completely open to suggestions or ideas that you may have as well.

Hey Adam, I have a sr20det notchtop its on e85 along with some other things, the ignition system is somewhat stock with it being spit fire s15 smart coil drop in replacement time. With how hard the cut is I almost feels like all cylinders are being cut it is very harsh. On the other hand I had zero issues with the drivability at all till the o2 sensor went out about 3 days ago so I had ordered a new bosch 4.9 unit from my local supplier and I calibrated it. It started and idled fine till I began to drive it I noticed the bucking then soon after when I went to take it back home the idle did want to die on me then it could come back almost like it is falling and catching itself. If you would like I can give you a copy of the whole map that is on the car. I appreciate the look, I have also looked over everything mechanical with the car including checking spark plugs and everything seems to be checking out, fuel pressure all of it seems to be just fine but when it goes up in the high rpms and starts to hit some boost its like a wild horse.

Hey everyone I just changed my wideband o2 sensor as the old one finally gave out. I switched the gauge itself to lambda because i run flex fuel. I was not a fan of having to convert gas afr's on the fly in my head. Since then I have this very strange bucking almost like a hard boost cut when I am under wide open throttle. If i hold it there it just keeps bucking and doing the same thing which has me a bit confused. I have tried recalibrating the tps, map, and the gauge multiple time to see if it was something simple. I tried going up and down in fuel master to see if maybe it was a bit too lean or rich but changes had no affect. I was wondering if someone wouldnt mind taking a look and see if they find anything that I am overlooking. After all I am a beginner. bucking 8-30-22.llgx

well thanks so much adam we had a mission success, i got it to start and it runs great!

Thanks so much Adam I will try that after work today! And I’ll size up to a bigger breaker as well

so update i have since gotten a new starter from isr and have installed it with new 0 gauge wire and a 100amp breaker but when i go to crank the engine with crank over but then will pop the breaker, i do notice when i flip for fuel it does seem to pop the breaker almost right after, and then will just pop the breaker after with no fuel pump turned on. I have checked all grounds even put a ground from the starter housing to the frame, i have gotten a brand new battery. I am getting cas signal but im not sure if there is not enough fuel or no spark is being commanded i am going to test again for spark while cranking. update 2 i am getting spark perfectly while cranking with the plugs out as well as a cas signal no plugs spark test.llgx also what would be a good baseline for the master fuel for 1000cc injectors crank with plugs in.llgx

Yeah I’m a little bit confused myself, considering I didn’t have issues on the nistune I was on, I was logging and checking different things all day so the battery could have just been real low and no happy with the constant starts here and there. So I will throw it on the charger and log the first attempt after work tomorrow, if no dice I like your idea with the drill made me laugh a little I’ll definitely have to try that, and if that doesn’t work then we can both safely say I have a wiring issue that I need to trace and or I have another busted cas. If I does show up on the drill method then I guess I can move forward into looking why I have so much voltage drop from the starter, maybe because the engine is brand new and still in the breaking in stage or something of that nature. But I appreciate all the help this far!

new scope with no plugs TriggerScopeLog noplugs.llgx here is also a log with no plugs log with no plugs.llgx

yes read some more info about the switches, i just changed them back and will send a log shortly. PC Datalog - 2021-10-17 5;09;14 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog5.llgx

i did switch the dip switches to adm and now it shows trigger 1 shows active with no errors but before on the jdm setting it would get errors, but now i have no rpm speed while cranking

i do have a little over 12v on the 12v and ground wire while cranking voltage drops down to 9.6v

I have since put a known working cas in and made sure everything was timed right when putting it in. here is the new trigger scope with the new one TriggerScopeLog new.llgx sr20 test.pclx

I did use the injector test function as well as the test function for the coils, the coils did spark correctly from cylinder1-4 but the injectors where from cylinder 4-1 for some reason. I do have a wiring specialist harness that is fresh and brand new. I will check and make sure that the harness is fully seated and nothing funky is going on if not I will try out another cas.

Hello everyone I'm completely new to standalones and ecu tuning in general so bare this in mind. I have been fighting a crank no start issue on this new plug and play unit. I am running 1000cc bosch injectors a dw400 fuel pump I have the regulator set to 40, i do have the pump on its own circuit and switch. I have gone through everything to the best of my ability but i just cant get it to start up or act like it wants to start up. I have checked for spark which I have the timing should be at the stock 15 degrees that it was at on the stock ecu. I have check to make sure all the injectors where working which they were but i did notice that injector 4 was firing in cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 was firing injector 3 and cylinder 3 had injector 2 firing and cylinder 4 had injector 1 it seems like it was flipped on the injector firing but I'm not sure if that is a normal thing considering I haven't touched anything with the fueling but the master number to try and get it to start. sr20 base.pclx TriggerScopeLog.llgx