Timboj

I noticed a touch of it today while I was driving (much less) so I'll give your settings a try and see if that makes a difference.

Yeah no issue with that, now that I know that setting is there. Cheers

Thanks, re the directories. Just checked and they're still set to the G4X directories, which don't exist any more. Must be a registry thing, but at least I can fix it.

Any update on these issues guys? Is this one on the roadmap? Also, another minor issue I've had with PC Link G5; the software (at least my current install) doesn't discriminate between what you're saving/loading when it comes to the last used folder. What it means is that if I started by opening a map for example, when I go to open a log file, I have to change folders. And vice versa. It sounds innocuous but it's more faffing about where G4X didn't have this issue. I just did a reinstall of an older G4X version and it remembered the last used location separately for maps and logs. Is this just an issue with my install or G5?

Beware:

After having the car off the road for nearly 6 weeks (more upgrades...) I've been for a few drives lately and haven't had the issue. Admittedly I haven't been trying to trigger this issue specifically. I rev match on my regular driving and it's been driving fine, but I'll test it a bit more aggressively today. Current settings on ethrottle, with feed forward still zeroed:

Sounds like you've got it sorted. Should look like this:

Thanks @AbbeyMS . When I get some time I've got some adjustments to try with less fuel, more throttle. Injector timing is untouched from the Link base map, using end of injection and Single zone/360 BTDC. Would you suggest a different setting/table? If so, would something like this be a reasonable starting point to start tuning? I picked up on a couple of forum posts that suggested VVT cam angle/rpm would the way to go...

@castillaricardo Getting there: I've probably tried half a dozen configurations since your map. It's iterative but the thing that appears to be making the most difference is pulling fuel from the post-start enrichment. I'm experimenting with taking crank enrichment out because there's clearly an issue with too much fuel, but I believe I've hit the point where ignition is taking longer now. Work in progress...

To clarify, they do not offer remote tuning. All I'm saying is those resources are your next best alternative. Btw, Eugune at Enthusiast Auto Care in CA comes highly recommended for remote tuning VQs. There's always Admin Tuning as well but there are mixed reviews out there. Reality is everyone is different degrees of time or $ poor. Your solutions will either be to throw money at the problem, or spend the time learning yourself. You'll get plenty of help in these forums or as Confused mentioned, the PC Link help documentation.

I'd love to see a lot more from your media team in general but have you considered creating some technical videos (not shorts) on how to set up and basic trouble shooting on functionality? I'd love to see videos on setting up/tuning launch control, anti-lag, boost control, PID tuning etc.. It would make your platform so much more accessible and take a load off Adam/Vaughan. Sure there are plenty of learning resources out there but a lot of them are paid, or not specific to Link. Plus I think it'd be great advertising. Haltech has done a great job with explaining tuning concepts. It would be great to see Link in this space.

If you're struggling to find a remote tuner then HP Academy and Evans Performance Academy are both fantastic resources for tuning on a Link and in general. Either will be able to upskill you pretty quickly in terms of understanding the various concepts and functions, and getting you up and running. If you're attempting this at home I would say at the bare minimum you would need wide band 02 sensors (at least one) and tune your VE table around safe AFR targets. Leave most of the base VQ settings (AFR targets/ignition timing etc) provided by Link, but adjust for injectors and fuel type. That should be enough to get to a tuner -maybe try to stay under 3/4000rpm until you're tuned to play it safe. That's where I started.

Would you mind taking a look at this log/map? I zeroed the feed forward, played around with the PID and got it to what I thought was pretty good in terms of target v actual. Then after a short drive came the dreaded post-throttle blip oscillation. https://drive.google.com/file/d/11MtAY5lPMSPbg_iJAfugEA-mJ4K26KkW/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZE7bKd_CpzO-yhMLJBsafuclvRR5ehey/view?usp=sharing Is there something else going on here? This oscillation issue has only existed for me sometime in the last few months, and making any changes to feed forward was something fairly new to me too (previously 0), so I'm wondering if there is another value/setting that could be contributing?

So I've done another run with PID Setup on the eThrottle. How does one interpret this? By my eyes the feed forward looks fairly steady, as does integral. Do I read this that proportional/derivative need to be reduced? Edit- and is the correct approach to zero any feed forward and tune the PID first, then fine tune feed forward after? Another example, same settings:

Makes sense. Thanks for the extra context, Adam.

Ahhh, I was wondering why the base + offset wasn't higher... max clamp, of course. Re crank enrichment for pure 98 (that's my alternative) was a bit of a guestimate. Short answer is no, it hasn't been tuned yet. I think I've only had it down as low as 15% multi fuel blend, so it was tuned roughly around there but since then there have been some other changes. I've just taken a look at your changes. I'll give them a shot and report back. Many thanks for taking the time.

Sure, thanks Vaughan. Can you advise on why it's only happening under these specific conditions and not the other 99.9% of the time I'm driving?

It's happened to me several times, but from memory it's only been while the car is still warming up to full operating temp. In this instance I was at 67/68C. My CLL kicks in at 50C. You can see that where I've stabbed the throttle quickly for a downshift, fuel correction seems to have switched off, fuel goes rich, the TPS starts bouncing all over the place and the exhaust sounds terrible. It takes a few pedal pushes to eventually snap it out of it. Any idea what the heck is happening here?? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FSWBUUmnv4oldYTVPb7ZrL1og04n_zRb/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MnxwbTUHz82Fb5drquz0V5QFy2D8cCRK/view?usp=sharing

Thanks @castillaricardo. I've tried a couple of things but something is still missing on getting this to play nice.. I raised the idle base position to where the ECU wanted it, lowered the idle ignition target and extended the startup hold/decay (admittedly too long). Total 'startup' time marked in red. All that's really changed is that the same rpm undulations go for longer now (obviously the overly long startup hold time). What's it going to take to prevent that first dip down to 500rpm? Tune and log attached this time: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FSWBUUmnv4oldYTVPb7ZrL1og04n_zRb/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MnxwbTUHz82Fb5drquz0V5QFy2D8cCRK/view?usp=sharing

DxDiag.txt Like others have said, my issues seem to relate to disconnecting from the ECU and possibly waking the laptop after being put to sleep. I'll try and find a circumstance that is reproduceable. Edit- Can consistently reproduce without being physically connected to ECU, by having a map/log open and then selecting 'Connect to ECU'. Either while the prompt window is open or after closing the prompt, one or more windows/tables will glitch.

Hi guys, I'm struggling with my cold start after playing around with a lot of settings of many months. This is about as close as I've been able to get it. I've tried playing around with startup offset, hold time, fuel etc. Can anyone advise on what I'm missing here? I'm hoping it's obvious to some and just hasn't clicked for me yet. Should startup hold time be longer but with a higher startup offset? Warm/hot start is pretty much perfect (from about >60C).

Hi guys, is this something being looked into for an update?

After moving to 7.2.2 I get this prompt every time the PC Link software is opened or ECU is disconnected. Was this an intentional inclusion? Seems innocuous enough, but it's a step I have to do every time now where I didn't used to have to, but more annoyingly, if my laptop logging was running when I switched the car off, I can't just fire the car up again and continue with logging. I have to power the ECU, connect the PC Link software via the above and then ignition... I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling but it's still there. Can we have this removed or switchable?

Yeah I've got the same issue:

Hi mate, I just found a spare 12v and ground (unused connector in my car) near the cabin fan and then added some DTM2 connectors. You'll have plenty of options to splice into 12v somewhere though.