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Julien

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Julien last won the day on October 4 2022

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  1. That would be wonderful !
  2. The genuine sensor is a Bosch NTC type, I double checked the calibration with my oven. I did some research and the maximum allowed temp for the head is 220°C So my value doesn’t seem too crazy. Keeping in mind it’s only on track where I log peaks EGT just under 1100°.. and the water cooling of the turbos bearings goes near 120°C. But I really need to install another sensor to know exactly up to where I go.. Otherwise the engine runs around 140° on open road.
  3. I’m sorry but that will be too short, the engine is running over 160° so if I want to implement a safety I need more that this. Maybe 3 cells 160, 180, 200?
  4. I’m not a professional and my tuner is doing race engines.. I’m the only road car he’s doing.. but we don’t seem to have issues with Crank and Post start Enrichment, Post Start Hold time, Post Start Decay time. Once the engine is at these values it’s hot so it start correctly. Or the tables are zeroed or fixed. Maybe one of you would improve the hot start using this but as far as I’m concerned, the car start so I’m happy! (crank and post start enrichment are editable and hold time tables goes up to 140) I don’t have A/C so I don’t know if extending over 100° could be an improvement The only 3 ones that I would use are Boost ECT Target trim, Boost ECT Wastegate trim, ECT Ignition trim. The actual sensor max out at 160° I did not changed it yet so I don’t know exactly where the engine stabilize.. I hope not over 200°.. The only sensor I found to be up to the task (I would avoid a thermocouple if possible) is a Bosch Motorsport item that cost over 500€ so I would be interested in any alternative if you have.. http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/downloads/Raceparts/en-GB/58273931119693579.html
  5. Yes, that’s precisely why I’m asking to make them editable…
  6. Thanks, that’s the only data I have. I usually log on the pc but I was on track and it’s only the internal logging of the ECU . I may not have added enough parameters :/ I’ll try according your advice: I set the deactivation time to 1s (it’s an old car with a slow gearbox..)
  7. Hi guys I'm working on my boost control. I set the Proportional at 0 in order to refine the base table. (At first I tried but I suppose the values were too far from the mark and it was impossible to set the PID properly. the oscillation was way too big.) I still reach the MAP limit during gear change. I guess I have to reduce the stage one frequency to calme down the peak that I got? Log: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/wmszvu3uzwbok2lyib1w3/Fay5.llgx?rlkey=dmn1ebp5y4grmmhtr1e2hcai1&dl=0 17-08-23.pclx
  8. I know my case is uncommon but my car being air cooled and running quite hot I'm well over the fixed scale of all the ECT tables.. I'm running around 130-140°C and I max out the sensor at 160° on track or in traffic.. It would be nice if the scale could be edited so I could implement some safeties. For instance the boost target trim table stops at 140.. Since the car heats up quickly I guess I could deal with simply render the axis editable so other users wouldn't be messed..
  9. Nothing important, juste the correctif for the fuel consumption through CAN. I can live without a few more weeks ;)
  10. Hi guys, any idea when the next version will be released ?
  11. If your ECU is older than V3, I’ve a brand new Knock Shield V1 for Arduino laying on a shelf.. I bought it to use with a Motec M600 but I finally used a G4X. They released a V2 a few months ago. I don’t know what they changed but if you need it you can have it for the shipping costs.. (I’m in France so it may not be interesting depending where you are) http://www.bylund-automotive.com/educative/knock/
  12. I tried with the hose from the intercooler to the dump valve out and it's the same I'll increase the idle lockout and see how the car drives like this.. Thanks Adam CS7.llgx
  13. I did clean it a while ago and it was free at that time, I’ll check it again. I enclosed a log of open loop the trial if you notice something wrong. Concerning the dump valves, yes they are before the TB but they are supposed to be open by the vacuum when you lift the throttle.. and at idle if the spring is too strong they may not open, then the air from the compressors will be forced through the TB gap and the OSCV I suppose. Depending of the very low pressure they’ll make at idle.. idleopenloop.llgx
  14. Hi Adam, This was tested during the initial startup. I used open loop to define the base table before going to closed loop. But I tested as you suggested and I can confirm that the valve works as intended. Increasing value increase the idle speed. I don’t know how much pressure can make the turbos at idle. But I wonder if my dumps valves could be the problem. They are fitted the ‘wrong’ way from factory, I mean the high pressure is entering the side of the valve and not the piston. I replaced them long ago with Forge ones when I found one leaking.. I need to check but I think they are fitted with a stiffer spring to cope with 1.0 to 1.6b were I may should have fitted the sotfter one with this arrangement... Do you think that taking one out to see if I get more vacuum could be a good try? They are not really easy to access..
  15. Did another star this afternoon and same behavior at 2k.. The carbon canister purge can be eliminated. On this log at 1:35 I lowered the rev from 2K by slipping the clutch (the car being steady) and the vacuum dropped but the idle get back to normal. Could it be too stiff springs in the dump valves? cs5.llgx
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