Julien

That would be wonderful !

The genuine sensor is a Bosch NTC type, I double checked the calibration with my oven. I did some research and the maximum allowed temp for the head is 220°C So my value doesn’t seem too crazy. Keeping in mind it’s only on track where I log peaks EGT just under 1100°.. and the water cooling of the turbos bearings goes near 120°C. But I really need to install another sensor to know exactly up to where I go.. Otherwise the engine runs around 140° on open road.

I’m sorry but that will be too short, the engine is running over 160° so if I want to implement a safety I need more that this. Maybe 3 cells 160, 180, 200?

I’m not a professional and my tuner is doing race engines.. I’m the only road car he’s doing.. but we don’t seem to have issues with Crank and Post start Enrichment, Post Start Hold time, Post Start Decay time. Once the engine is at these values it’s hot so it start correctly. Or the tables are zeroed or fixed. Maybe one of you would improve the hot start using this but as far as I’m concerned, the car start so I’m happy! (crank and post start enrichment are editable and hold time tables goes up to 140) I don’t have A/C so I don’t know if extending over 100° could be an improvement The only 3 ones that I would use are Boost ECT Target trim, Boost ECT Wastegate trim, ECT Ignition trim. The actual sensor max out at 160° I did not changed it yet so I don’t know exactly where the engine stabilize.. I hope not over 200°.. The only sensor I found to be up to the task (I would avoid a thermocouple if possible) is a Bosch Motorsport item that cost over 500€ so I would be interested in any alternative if you have.. http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/downloads/Raceparts/en-GB/58273931119693579.html

Yes, that’s precisely why I’m asking to make them editable…

Thanks, that’s the only data I have. I usually log on the pc but I was on track and it’s only the internal logging of the ECU . I may not have added enough parameters :/ I’ll try according your advice: I set the deactivation time to 1s (it’s an old car with a slow gearbox..)

Hi guys I'm working on my boost control. I set the Proportional at 0 in order to refine the base table. (At first I tried but I suppose the values were too far from the mark and it was impossible to set the PID properly. the oscillation was way too big.) I still reach the MAP limit during gear change. I guess I have to reduce the stage one frequency to calme down the peak that I got? Log: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/wmszvu3uzwbok2lyib1w3/Fay5.llgx?rlkey=dmn1ebp5y4grmmhtr1e2hcai1&dl=0 17-08-23.pclx

I know my case is uncommon but my car being air cooled and running quite hot I'm well over the fixed scale of all the ECT tables.. I'm running around 130-140°C and I max out the sensor at 160° on track or in traffic.. It would be nice if the scale could be edited so I could implement some safeties. For instance the boost target trim table stops at 140.. Since the car heats up quickly I guess I could deal with simply render the axis editable so other users wouldn't be messed..

Nothing important, juste the correctif for the fuel consumption through CAN. I can live without a few more weeks ;)

Hi guys, any idea when the next version will be released ?

If your ECU is older than V3, I’ve a brand new Knock Shield V1 for Arduino laying on a shelf.. I bought it to use with a Motec M600 but I finally used a G4X. They released a V2 a few months ago. I don’t know what they changed but if you need it you can have it for the shipping costs.. (I’m in France so it may not be interesting depending where you are) http://www.bylund-automotive.com/educative/knock/

I tried with the hose from the intercooler to the dump valve out and it's the same I'll increase the idle lockout and see how the car drives like this.. Thanks Adam CS7.llgx

I did clean it a while ago and it was free at that time, I’ll check it again. I enclosed a log of open loop the trial if you notice something wrong. Concerning the dump valves, yes they are before the TB but they are supposed to be open by the vacuum when you lift the throttle.. and at idle if the spring is too strong they may not open, then the air from the compressors will be forced through the TB gap and the OSCV I suppose. Depending of the very low pressure they’ll make at idle.. idleopenloop.llgx

Hi Adam, This was tested during the initial startup. I used open loop to define the base table before going to closed loop. But I tested as you suggested and I can confirm that the valve works as intended. Increasing value increase the idle speed. I don’t know how much pressure can make the turbos at idle. But I wonder if my dumps valves could be the problem. They are fitted the ‘wrong’ way from factory, I mean the high pressure is entering the side of the valve and not the piston. I replaced them long ago with Forge ones when I found one leaking.. I need to check but I think they are fitted with a stiffer spring to cope with 1.0 to 1.6b were I may should have fitted the sotfter one with this arrangement... Do you think that taking one out to see if I get more vacuum could be a good try? They are not really easy to access..

Did another star this afternoon and same behavior at 2k.. The carbon canister purge can be eliminated. On this log at 1:35 I lowered the rev from 2K by slipping the clutch (the car being steady) and the vacuum dropped but the idle get back to normal. Could it be too stiff springs in the dump valves? cs5.llgx

Hi Adam, I too use a Vbox Lite so I downloaded your file and set it up. THANKS! Dash2pro was already configured on my ECU because I also use Realdash with the usual USB-Can analyser. Would both work together or will I have to use one or the other? (I’m waiting for a mini din connector to make a loom for the vbox so I can’t test right now) I’m worry because of the acknowledgment thing…

Hi Adam, I tried to unplug the purge solenoid but the no improvement in the vacuum value...I let the car warm up a little longer than usual and I couldn’t reproduce the 2K rpm issue. I'll give it another try later.I also set the lambda target back to 1 were my hesitation are and they are still here so it doesn't seems to be related to the purge actuation..I enclosed a longer log since cold start. I used the GP rotary switch in order to flag were the hésitations happen.. https://www.dropbox.com/s/4dj7t71tggd9q0x/PC Datalog - 2023-03-19 10%3B38%3B48 am.rar?dl=0 Thanks for your help !

Thanks for your reply but we are Sunday, you shouldn’t be here!! We can all wait until Monday! No electrical load.. A/C is gone, and if I plane to install an electro hydraulic steering it’s not done yet. The car hasn’t run during the last week and this log is on the first startup so the battery may have been low. So the blip could have increased the current from the alternator even if the tension was stable. Giving the impression a load has been removed.. Could this lambda drop be because the timing goes from 9 to 27° producing a better combustion? I agree for the 2,5 not being the cause and ok, it’s active during “idle lockout” so now I understand why I got this I’ll make a fume test on the inlet to make sure I’ve no issue here. I’ll also unplug the purge solenoid and disconnect it’s hose to breath the tank. I took the car out of the garage then I blipped to get this behavior and then I drove away at 1:30 and stopped at 1:34 that’s where the rpm dropped and the idle control get back in action. I blip again but rpm dropped enough for the idle control to catch this time.. and at this point I stoped the log to keep it small. I’ve no clue why it behaves like this.. maybe a leak in the intake but not constant Correct for B1, the thermocouple is plugged but I need to have a bung welded on the manifold to install it.. so atm it’s only laying in the engine compartment.. The B2 EGT is installed before the turbo that may be why you find the temp high. Once warm the idle is stable.. but MAP is still at 67kPa..

Hi Adam, During cold start if I get out of the idle control for high RPM lockout I get stuck at 2k rpm. It's weird to me because when the idle control reengages the idle position goes to my idle base setting and rise it meaning it's too low. Also the idle position is 2.5% higher than the base setting and I don't know where this correction comes from (I'm out of the startup offset at this stage) Do you have any guess? Thanks

Hi Adam I tried with the reduced advance as you suggested (with a lambda target to 1) and the phenomenon is reduced but still present. So I put more advance but not as much as initially and set the target at 0.9. Then I leaned to find the good limit. It’s way better now. Reading other topics I realized that using modeled fuel I should have disabled the IAT fuel correction and zeroed the warm up enrichment table.. so I also did that in the process.

Thanks Adam, spot on reply as usual I’lol try that next weekend is it not raining too much… Concerning the ignition, I ditched the distributor (retaining only the phase sensor) and installed a triple coil pack from a VR6 engine.

Hi guys, I'm still working on my calibration. The full loads have been tuned on dyno and road by a pro and I'm finishing the transitions, cold start and other 'side' parameters. I intend to do another session to set the knock detection as well as the charge temp approx table that is still blank.. (I know we will have to rework the fuel table after that..) and maybe add a little more boost^^ A last session will then be done later for the E85. (I want to replace all the fuel hoses first since the car is almost 30 yo) Anyway, since I own this car (tuned by the previous owner through a professional, retaining the genuine ECU) I always had an hesitation under low load around 2200 RPM. It got worse with the new mapping. I richen the spot and it improved but I'm wondering if it's the right way to do it or if I should also work the timing or other parameters? I attached a log of the phenomenon and the 'improved' tune. Also I find I have a lot of pop and bangs at the lift off. Overrun fuel cut is activated and I set the activation delay to 0 so if you could have look and let me know if you find something unusual I would be interested.. (I know some are looking of that but as far as I'm concerned I only want the engine to be safe) Thanks!!

It’s 0.3% at 2500rpm and 0.5% at idle I’ve got 200 cells cats. I used to pass emission tests with the previous ECU (based on MAF) so I really expect to got through with this new setup. I’ll work the idle area to lean it to 1 - 1.05 even if I have to rise it a little more (950rpm at the moment)

I failed the emission test today :’( Lambda and CO (Carbon monoxide) were about right at 2500 rpm but when going back to idle the CO was way too high. My tuner set the target lambda at idle to 0.95 so I may be too rich (he’s used to race cars so it may explain). I can lean it at 1.0 I guess I’ll have to work on the injection timing (I let the default 400°) and optimize a little in this area. But I wonder if their is some guidelines to optimize the calibration for emission tests.. :/ Ill try to get my hands on a gaz analyser to read the CO in addition of the lambda

If the value is correct, the rest doesn’t matter very much. Thanks for the support!