EssexStu

Good morning all, Apologies for the pretty simple question in relation to other questions on here. After wiring up and installing my V44, i opted to let the mapper do everything ECU programming wise. Im not at a stage of upgrade and about to change my sidefeed 440 injectors to 550 injectors. The mapper is ok to re-map in the future but i wanted to know is there an option within the vi-pec management to tell the ECU you have changed injectors and it automatically adjusts the map? (On my nistune on the skyline, i can simply say what injectors its running and it updates the map to suit). Need to know as about to install the injectors in the car and would ideally like to install the new ones now rather than having to re-remove the inlet manifold again in the future. Many thanks

Thanks, am still learning... that looks like it will do the trick thankie!

Hi all, wanted to check something was ok before implementing... About to wire in an additional electric water pump for additional coolant flow... I currently have the fan's wired into the normal fan speed control. While looking for the best option of wiring up the water pump, found high fan control My fan is set to come on at 90 to drop 3*C am ok turning the high speed fan on (electric water pump) at a lower temperature than this, or will the ECU not understand? ie, are the two linked or totally seperate. Was possibly putting the electric water pump on around 60 to run all the time while the engine is warm Thanks

Hi all, running a standard ford sierra instrument cluster in my sierra with v44. How do i get a pulse from the ecu to work the tacho? Does it need a relay setup to pulse it or something? Std input doesnt do anything. Many thanks

Excellent thanks :-) will try that word for word n fingers crossed have her up n running, very much appreciated :-) :-) Will report back once had a go, thanks :-)

Its the snap on, red timing light with the 5 push buttons. From the guy who owns it, taken his word that i wanted to go upto 10 on the gauge. Is that correct?? After setting up the correct firing order. Had another play tonight and with 10 deg on the software and offset at -90 Or +270 ish i can get her to successfully caugh n splutter and actually ran in a limp style for 5 to 10 seconds, but battery struggling so stopped to give that a good trickle charge. When going theu spluttering she was givin some heavier soot, eo turned down fuel pressure from 5 bar to 4 bar and played with -20% ish on the master fueling - assuming correct way to adjust fuel on first startup when no main parameters to set? Again thanks for time reading, all input welcome to help get her running finally :-) Thanks :-)

Thanks for quick reply and time to read my rather long post, you logic on the ignition definately makes sence so will swqp that over tonight, would explain the popping! With reguards to fueling, is it worth me going into negative percentage fuel to prevent over fueling the increase? Also, is my method for doing the offset timing correct? Thanks :-)

Hi all, wonder if some ones able to point out my error and allow my engine to start after many many many many many attempts with my V44 It’s a 2.9 V6 24v Ford Cosworth Engine from a 1996 Ford Scorpio (UK Car) – Engine code “BOBâ€, with two custom exhaust manifolds and turbo’s Fueling is set to Multi-Point Group, injecting cylinders 1,2 and 3 together on the RH cylinder head and cylinders 4, 5 and 6 together on the LH Cylinder head. Have witnessed these injecting correctly as removed the inlet plenum and visually watched them firing in three’s, in turn. (Injectors are upgraded to 440cc impreza side feed injectors) Crank Trigger is done by the factory sensor and the factory crank wheel 36-1 pickup, and when cranking I’m getting a good 170rpm Ignition is done by the factory standard wasted spark, 6 cylinder ford coil pack. This is wired up as so that ignition 1 does cylinders 1 and 5, ignition 2 does cylinders 2 and 6, and ignition 3 does cylinders 3 and 4. The firing order (also as per factory) is 1-4-2-5-3-6. Mechanical cam timing I’m happy with (checked numerous times prior to full assembly) and good compression (176 to 183 across the 6) Down to getting the car started. Disable fuel pump and injectors so just spark. My crank pulley has 3 markings. TDC, 10 BTDC and approx. 45 BTDC (not used that 1 yet). The timing pin from the front engine cover sits slightly left of vertical top. The crank sensor sits around 10 o’clock With the software “Lock Ignition Timing to:†set to 10.0 Degrees BTC. The timing light also set to 10. Looking at the second timing notch (just right of the TDC notch), to get the flash to line up, I enter -40 into the “Adjust Offset until Ignition Timing matches the above number:†If I also line the pin from timing cover up with the 10 BTDC, the open missing tooth is behind, and its 4 teeth around to the crank sensor (so in my head, tallies up to 4 teeth, causing the -40 figure needed?) However, turn everything on… lots of cranking and occational backfire up both exhaust and occationally intake. The closest ive had (when realllly playing with numbers) was: Locking timing to: 0, and adjust offset until ignition timing matches the number: 10. – With these settings plucked from thin air, I got a sped up crank (like when the engine is attempting to run and speeds up the cranking), however, im yet to hear a proper staged splutter / crank to fire her up… Many hours in, I know im probably missing something stupid… so please please if anyone has the time, point me in the right direction. Would love to get her running by my own fingers, in workshop If its of any help, the latest map I’ve saved was from yesterday and I have uploaded to : http://www.flashgaming360.co.uk/mr2mini/files/24vTT-june.pcl Thanking anyone who has a few minutes spare in advance. Stuart Shepherd

Not sure if BackyardBuild sorted his using Jasons advise, but i too am struggling (first time engine start attempt). Choose the set base timing option under calibrate, but no matter what figures i put in there, nothing gets saved. using a timing light, im about 12 BTDC, rather than 10, so assuming need to adjust to tell it im at 12, but cant :S Am i missing something obvious?? hope so thanks

Ahh thats handy to know thanks, i already have a spare lc-1, so might just put that in 1 bank as you suggest, run another lambda on the other bank, and maybe once its up and running and dyno'ed take the lc-1 out and run a second normal lambda on that bank to allow for the finer adjustments Sound like a plan ? Cheers

Hi all, Just at the exhaust and wiring stage of project... Have a V6 24v Cosworth with Twin Turbo setup. On this im planning on having seperate exhausts and hence will also require two lambda sensor If using quick tune, will i be able to setup two lc-1's, or is it better to run two 3 wire lambda's for custom map? Any advice/guide greatly appreciated

Ohh excellent, so i can wire up 3x 10.8ohm injectors to one inj driver, mames i Things easier and will defo be balanced then, cheers

Cheers

Hi there, sorry to dig up an old post, have been pointed here for ref, i am too having this dilema, ford originally run three injectors on 1 driver but the v44 manual says it can only handle two inj per driver, is this correct? Cheers

Hi there, just wiring up my 24v V6 Ford Engine injectors... Ive swapped them over for 440cc Impreza Injectors which are 10.8ohms (high) Originally from Factory, ford fired cylinders 1,2 and 3 together, and then 4, 5 and 6 together appreciating the v44 can handle 2 injectors per driver and has 4 drivers which is the best way to wire / set them up... Have read the manual over n over, n from what i can gather... Engine has a 36-1 crank with a single cam sensor pickup I could run Multi-Point Group Injection, and wire say cyl 1 and 2 together, and 3 on driver 2. Then 4 n 5 together on driver 3 with cyl 6 on driver 4.... Then fire driver 1 and 2 together, and then drivers 3 n 4 together ? This kind of comes under the Group Fire staged option? but not sure Any help greatly appreciated, Cheers

Just to add to my own topic, just re-read the manual pages (been a while) and discovered the v44 allows the wasted spark 6 cyl coil pack, so that sides easy enough... Fueling wise, im guessing can then continue to use multi-point group injection firing the banks in three's (cyl 1, 2 and 3) and then 4, 5 and 6 in groups... Please do say if i have put anything incorrect

Hi all, hopefully not a usual question of asking for a complete setup which will 100% work for me, but... Has anyone used Vi-pec with the V6 Cosworth engine, (in particular the later BOB engine from the scorpio) And if so, any info on the usage, or anyone have any base map's? I have a V44 (off my other project car ill be borrowing until i need both cars on the road so will buy another), but from the documentation section there is no refence to the v44 running 6 cyl with a single coil pack. Does the Vi-Pec retain the EDIS-6 Unit (6 cylinder version of the EDIS-4) Any assistance greatly appreciated Stu

Cheers for all the reply's... Litterely just done the following with no success... Firstly re-changed all the trigger voltages back down to Ray's suggested celica settings (starting at 0.2trig1 and 0.5trig2), both green triggers but no rpm then checked the two earths from ECU, first going to chassis point, second going to cylinder head, both good Have then swapped the pin's in plug so that its using G2 instead of G1, again, both green triggers but no RPM Short of swapping the distributor, feel like banging head against wall Annoyingly car isnt at a stage really to be trailered anywhere as once there they would hopefully then it get running and do the initial running in base map, but things like coolant isnt fully done yet as once it is, will cover the majority of the wiring, which dont want incase need to modify it... well annoying! Will try and source another dizzy but dont know of anyone local with a spare 3sgte dizzy so may be a no go'er, and engine was a complete perfect runner prior to removal and fitment so should be pretty good really Any other suggestions please feel free to throw them this way, but feel like hit a dead end! Thanks

Yea i tried the thresholds from the Celica map too with the lower values and they wernt registering either, been going over and over all the settings trying to get a result they were the 0.2 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 and 0.5 0.5 1.6 2.0 2.0 2.0 3.5 4.0 Been trying to learn as much as possible about all the systems now, know the NE is the rpm signal which is now wired to pin8, Trig 1. Is it the low threshold which should produce the rpm signal? Is it possible the rpm signal is being produced but not recognised by the software. Friend of mine who does dyno work but doesnt deal with Vi-pec suggested enabling the fuel pump and seeing if that runs while cranking with the triggers both acknowledged, and if it does implys it does have rpm. Is this a feasible test on this system?

Heya, cheers for having a look at post The 1st setting is generally around 0.5, thou i have tried as low as 0.2, thou not 100% sure if ive put 0.2 on both triggers at the same time... At the moment im using the settings from the manual for the 3sgte which are : Trigger Mode Multi-tooth Multi-Tooth Posn Cam Tooth Count 24 Sync Pulse Cam Trigger 1 Type - Reluctor Trigger 1 Filtering - Level 1 Trigger 1 Arming Threshold 0.5 2 3 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Trigger 2 Type Reluctor Trigger 2 Filtering Level 2 Trigger 2 Arming Threshold 0.5 2 3 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Battery voltage during cranking is generally around 13v as on permanent charge while testing Any suggestions greatly appreciated Thanks

Unfortunately, still no RPM Re-pin'ed the plug, still have both triggers coming up as YES to seeing motion, and no Error's on trig 1 Have tried both the settings from the celica map you sent and the 3sgte options under the help menu, neither work Does anything else need to be setup for the rpm to work or is it soley the triggers? At the moment i have both fuel and ignition turned off to prevent any mis hap with fuel / spark etc Sorry to be a pain!

Ohhhh, excellent cheers, ill do that tommorow night and see how i get on Many many thanks

Its a 1991 3sGTE from an Mr2... Wiring wise i have... v44 harness, pin 7 (Shield) - G1 v44 harness, pin 8 (Trig1) - G- v44 harness, pin 9 (Trig2) - NE G2 on the distributor isn't used and have blanked it off Sorry to be asking simple Questions By rise and fall, is this tested using the logger view and seeing wether the scope goes positive or negative? Thanks again

A little update requesting more assistance if possible Had a set back, in that the guy who said could do a home visit for initial startup, is currently away until end of august... so looks like im on my own! Trigger wise, these are now working all ok apparently, with trig1 error counter producing no error's... However im still not getting an engine speed or rpm? Im assuming this is because i havnt carried out the calibration procedure? But this procedure is throwing me a little... Possible to explain how and why this procedure is required and operates ? From what i can understand, i should setup the engine 10 degree's BTDC using the crank pulley as a guide, but then it says using a timing light... yet the timing light wont work as the ecu doesnt know the engine rpm speed to make the ignition side work ?? Hopefully im being dumb and its a simple step im missing. Thanks

Got it thanks, few things different in there to what it says under the manual for the 3sgte, so ill give your settings ago, see if i can get an rpm reading! (all im after to make sure the dizzy is ok and working before paying to get the tuner in to do initial startup / dyno) many thanks