bigboss59400

Hi, I will start making my additional hairness soon Except electronic dealers (such as digikey, mouser, farnell etc), is there any cheaper place for such cable ? ecuplus.de ? Best regards

Indeed I somehow forgot the second point ! Thanks a LOT Adam !

Thanks a lot Adam !! For my understanding, am I correct if using cam pulse window, in fact 2 over the 3 teeth are "useless" ?

Thank you for your support ! I think you misunderstood my point : What if my target wheel (ie crank trigger wheel) is not 160mm : - if it's bigger then should I just have b2 bigger than 4.3mm ? - if it's lower then should I remove teeth or lower b2 ? I'm afraid in 2 scenario that VR might not be quick enough OK so it's not better to have a cam level in this case, just need to respect the trigger event 2 following your help guide Where should I put the missing crank toothany guideline ? (RB26 with 60-2) In case the trigger 1 and/or 2 event occurs at a wrong time, can I shift it by SW ? I'm planning to use intake VVT (hks vcam), does it add any constraints ?

Thanks for such valuable informations ! The aftermarket trigger wheel that I firstly choose is for a hall sensor and the teeth are not sharp; it's more like a gear ("triangle" shape). Not good enough so I will need to make my own. I FINALLY found an interesting sensor and rather cheap !! 0261 210 136 bosch motorsport https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0057/7712/9587/files/Inductive_Speed_Sensor_IA-C_Datasheet_51_en_2782136331.pdf?100626007659879745 So I will just follow the datasheet A few remaining questions : - since my wheel diameter will be different that the one on the datasheet, should I just adjust the width of the gap ? or should I adjust the other parameters too (width teeth, depth of regular teeth, depth of missing teeth) ? if so in what proportion ? pro ratio ? - (dumb one sorry) I guess I can't damaged the input of the ECU if I put too close the VR sensor ? (meaning higher voltage) - for the cam trigger, all the aftermarket disc has only a teeth on it, I suppose you adjust (mechanically) the rising edge of the pin to the start of one phase ? I was hoping something more like half of the disc "1" and the other half "0" ?

Hi, (future owner of a fury x) After doing some research I finally can't decided which type of sensor to go... VR is more robust (especially for temp) and has a better reponse time since it's a passive Hall is more easy to work with (square wave), less sensible to noise and there is no adjustment needed for the airgap (just need to respect the datasheet and that's it) the famous gt101 from honneywell is operating up to 150°C, has a reponse time of 15us which give me an imprecision of 1 degree at crankshaft (24-1 at 8k rpms) So I guess for new setup hall is prefered ? Best regards