k4nnon

@Adamw Thanks, That answered that portion of my question. I have a couple other questions as far as the ignition trim and torque reintroduction time. With the ignition trim, is this supposed to be a small amount of retard just to lower the engine tq? Or is this supposed to be aggressive, almost like an antilag ignition retard to help aid in keeping the turbo up to speed? When doing a WOT pull in my car ignition timing is around 5* right now. I have my main shift cut at 80% and my ignition trim is at -30* and torque reintroduction time is at 40ms. Does this sound appropriate? Or should I make a change to the ignition trim and reintroduction time? Thanks again for the help.

Hey all Link G4X PnP user here for my USDM evo 9. Questions regarding setting up the gear shift control in my car. My car is standard 5spd trans with synchros. On the newest firmware, Do I need to set up all of the "Dog Unload" stuff as well as the Main Shift stuff or will I just use the Main Shift settings being that I have a standard synchro transmission? And if I do need to set up the dog unload settings, how different are they going to be from my main shift settings? Or will they be similar? Trying to get the best shift I can. Thanks for any info.

Sounds like it’s set up properly, have you ever had the wastegate off? Is there any chance the fire ring is missing? Iv seen that happen quite often either by people having the gate off and losing or forgetting to put it back in, or if someone puts the car together poorly to sell and then the next owner just has no idea. Maybe just verify that the fire ring is there also.

What wastegate are you using? If it is a Tial type or a type that can have boost pressure supplied to both top and bottom of the gate,, make sure all unused ports are blocked or plugged. If its a MAC style solenoid it should b numbered 1, 2, 3, and usual simplistic setup is 3 to compressor, 2 to wastegate, and 1 is vented or recirculated. Also standard setup on the gate would be to use single port on the bottom and vent the cap. Never had an issue with this set upon evos or 4g63 engines at power levels stock to 700+. Hope that helps.

Hey all. Thanks for the replies and the info. I figured out how to read and write the factory ACD ecu with ecuflash. Decided to purchase an English Racing ACD tune rather than just play with the tuning myself. I figured this to be the best option because they have put in the track time needed to really make a great tuned ACD with the stock computer. HUGE improvement over stock I will say!

yes. say the engine is fully warmed up and 190 degrees F. or so. and in that cell the rpm is 5500. well if the coolant is 190 then it wont allow any more rpm then 5500. so just raise the rpm value to whatever you would like to run. this is a limiter so if you want to run 8k i would set the limiter at like 8600. this allows the full use of 8k but has the soft limiter and hard limiter soon after for the safety feature.

Your RPM Limit table is under the Engine Protection tab. You should be able to open up the table and adjust your rpm value at any specified coolant temp. As for degrees, I assume your talking about ignition? The ignition table is under the Ignition tab and you can adjust the table to fit your particular boost values. Not sure if any of that helps. The Link help section is also great for info as well. Best of luck.

It really depends on the sound you are trying to have. The sound of antilag is the loud pops and bangs while off throttle, Or this sound is similar to rolling antilag/launch control, or stationary launch control. The rotational idle is the aggressive choppy rally style idle you hear. So to answer your question, yes you can set up a rolling antilag on a button or a switch so that if you are in motion, you can hit the button and go full throttle, the rolling antilag will keep the car steady and build boost, it will make loud pops and bangs, as you let go of the button the car will launch into full boost. I feel like if you are looking for just a show pleaser, then your best bet is to probably set up an aggressive stationary launch control/2step. That way you dont need the car to be moving, you can just get in and put your foot to the floor. You can set this up to be very loud to your liking.

There is info on how to do this in the help section. Check it out, you should find the set up. Mind you, this only works if you have the ability to keep the throttle plate open a certain amount, either by adjustment screw/kicker, or an electric throttle body. Hop you find the other info you are looking for. There are some set ups where the iac valve is used to put extra air into the manifold, but some iacs dont allow enough air to be very aggressive sounding.

ALSO, another thing. When I open up G5 and check PcLink Version it says 7.2.3 But the latest download version on the site says 7.2.2 Is this correct or do I have something funky going on? Thanks again.

So is this something that I can change to ho it worked before? Im only trying to connect to one ecu at a time, my own lol. Being able to wifi connect to all ecus and having to select which one sounds like an added opportunity for something to go wrong in the case of someone selecting the wrong ecu or flashing the wrong file to a wrong vehicle. I just wanna be able to connect to my vehicle without the added steps as it was before... How do I do this? Or has that option been surpassed? lol. Thanks for the info guys!

Hey all I am on a PnP G4X for my Evo 9. On the latest PClink and firmware versions I believe. Before when I would either key on for auto connect, or either manually connect to ecu, the ecu would connect without any issues. Recently after installing the most recent versions of PClink and firmware it doesn’t connect, it asks for USB and serial number or something. Am I doing something wrong, or is there info I need to plug somewhere so that the ecu just connects without this extra step? Thanks for the info.

Hey thanks for the reply. Thats kinda what I was figuring in some sense. Maybe ill do some dyno testing with this and see if there is a readable difference in a 1st/2nd gear pull from 2000-5000rpms at a few throttle angles below 100% versus wide open and look at the differences. Would be interesting to know if there is a loss at 100% throttle. Thanks for the input!

Hey all, Link G4X PnP user here for USDM evo IX. I have some questions on low rpm wot tuning. I understand tuning and I have my car tuned making around 700 wheel with a garrett gt35r turbo. Turbo doesnt hit full spool untill about 5500rpms. Is there any specific way to tune the car for wot at lower rpms? or is it all the same? Example would be an autocross situation starting from a stopwithout the use of launch control or antilag, 100% throttle from the start at 2000rpms until the turbo kicks in. I guess what im trying to figure out is the difference between throttle opening at low rpms. Because if i go 100% throttle at 2k rpms the engine/car is not going faster than if i were to throttle it at say 30-50% throttle. This might just be the nature of the beast. I can kinda feel at what throttle position the car is actually trying to go faster or not but should I be trying to just feel for this spot or go 100% throttle. And is there any different way of tuning for this or is there a way to make the car a little more peppy down low or standard tuning. Let me know if anyone has any helpful information. Thanks.

Hey thanks. I will give that a try and see what info I get. Appreciate it.

Hey you can set up different launch rpms with a rotary switch. Pretty easy set up. You can set up some virtual outputs as a general purpose rev limiter. You can set the arming conditions as rotary switch positions along with your clutch switch or anything else.. Many ways to configure it but all pretty simple.

Hey all, Im having a weird issue where on cold first start up, after a few days or a week of sitting. The car pops on a check engine light for ethanol content sensor fault/error. The sensor seems to work fine with no issues so i wanted to ask if anyone else has experienced something similar. Let me know thanks.

Usually cyclic idle works with rally style antilag together instead of being separate. This is mainly to keep rpm’s and engine idle manageable while the throttle is permanently held open. If you’re using an electric throttle body, you can set up a button to turn cyclic idle and antilag on, but I don’t think you can have one without the other.

@Subielife awesome! glad to hear you solved the issue. believe it or not iv seen that many times.

If everything was working fine before and the only thing changed is an upgraded pump, then I would double check the pump install and the basket. Iv seen many torn o rings or not crimped hoses. Some pumps need 2 or even 3 o rings around the neck to seal properly. Also maybe compare the pump body length of the new and old pump. If the new pump is shorter and didnt come with a larger seat then its pressure may be forcing it back and out of place. If nothing changed with lines or regulator then I would double check everything is good with the pump and basket itself. Best of luck! Happy Holidays.

Thanks @Adamw for the post. That makes sense, I was thinking because of the large injectors and trying to have them control such small quantities is probably some inconsistencies between cylinders. I actually played with my sensor depths and found out that the difference in temp vs depth is like 50* or more per 1mm. Some very small tweaking in the depths and I was able to get my egt values all within about 15* of each other. Im plenty happy with that. Moving into some wide open logging soon. Thanks again for the reply.

Also the logs for the warmup and road test for anyone wanting to view.. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fFhGordB8L6PUbTOF4wy3vvB_RKhiEO_?usp=sharing

@JMP Hey thanks for the response! I believe the exhaust ports are as close to identical to eachother as possible, and sensors are as close to the same distance and depth as I could make them. Im probably being too picky with this because I logged another full cold start full warm up cycle again later in the day and I had better results. My paired cylinders 1 and 4 still read about 80* cooler then my other paired cylinders 2 and 3, but are within about 20* of eachother. My cylinders 2 and 3 are also close within about 20 degrees of eachother. So I feel this is probably not worth trying to make better. Durring the road test there was a larger high low spread between paired cylinders but both pairs stayed within 50* of eachother. I think these are fine results and I will proceed with more fine tuning into the power curve now. Thanks again for the response! Pics for reference to placement. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1vCdK0dcf-e1trjPDdsWoatiVo4tss9UE?usp=sharing

Alright link fam, I have a in depth question here bout individual cylinder EGTs. Hoping someone can shed some light on this for me. OK, So I just installed individual egt sensors in the exhaust runners of my fully built evo 9. Egt sensors are placed exactly 2 inches from the end of the cylinder exhaust ports. Depths of all sensors are the same at about 10mm of tip extended into the runners. I know and understand that the cylinders will never be the same temp and probably average 20-50*F at any given time with a spread of 100* or more between cylinders/runners. Now with 0 trim to any cylinders, iv noticed that my cylinders 2 and 3 are awesome and run right in line with eachother at only a difference of about 10*of eachother. My cylinders 1 and 4 seem a little different and I assume its due to the outer runners having a little harder angle on them coming off of the head. They follow similar patterns as 2 and 3 but are reading about 50-70* cooler than the others and my cylinder 4 seems to run an average of about 100* or more cooler then the others. Now,, all of this is with normal driving to work or out and about, no full throttle stuff yet. Iv noticed that if I let my car sit and idle that my cylinder 4 will sit like 200-250* cooler then the others and its confusing me because the others are within 50* or so of eachother. Heres where it really starts confusing me, If I pull fuel away from cylinder 4 at idle the temp doesnt change much. But if I add fuel to cylinder 4, the temp will increase slightly. Adding more fuel on top will increase the temp slightly some more, to a point, and then egt on cylinder 4 doesnt rise anymore. I have also noticed that adding fuel to cylinder 4 also smooths out the idle slightly. Question is, why would adding fuel to a cylinder at idle increase the egt? And is there a sweet spot to this? kinda like injector spray timing, should I add fuel to the cylinder until the egt peaks and starts coming back down or should I just leave it at 0 trim where my egts are drastically cooler then the other cylinders? What about the smoother idle with added fuel to cylinder 4? If the engine idle seems smoother then thats a plus right? See what I mean by confusing. If anyone has any input on this please let me know what you think. I know EGT tuning less then 5k and out of boost is mostly useless but if I can make the car run better, im gonna try. Thanks everyone!

Yeah you dont need both pumps running at the same time, That will increase fuel temp too much as well as make your pressure hard to deal with. Iv made over 700wheel with a single hardwired 450 in my evo 9. So there is no need for both pumps to be running at idle or even low power conditions. Iv installed many radium units and they do have their own fuel siphon design so there shouldnt be any pressure created by not enough fuel being returned. Im gonna say your main issue is having both pumps running at the same time when they arent needed. Just run one pump through one relay triggered by the factory pump power wire, then trigger your second pump with link to come on at like 15-20psi or wherever you feel its needed. Another thing is that the walbro pumps werent really designed to operate less than 12-13v so there is a higher risk of pump failure operating them at lower than intended voltage.