buriedalive

Battery is in the boot. I actually had two batteries connected to try & rule that out as an issue. I had to clean up all the earths when I purchased the car to get any sort of life out of it at all. I'd rather have the battery in the engine bay anyway so I might look at refitting it to the stock location as I'm sure I'm going to have issues getting it re-complied with a battery in the back anyway. I will check the earth cable from engine to body aswell. Thanks

What do you think Adam? ECU Log 2022-05-1 1;41;52 pm.llgx

Fitted another ignitor to the factory location, still no ignition test capability or spark. Fitted an OEM ECU which I believed was faulty due to visible water damage and found I had spark. Refitted spark plug & Fuel Pump Relay & car tried to start. Refitted Link & found the same positive result. Ignition test now works. Ignitor doesn't get hot so I believe the original must have been faulty. I also believe I have a connection issue near the ECU plug as moving it causes the fans to kick on & off as the Link drops in/out. But I have spark now so I can perform base timing setup. I do still have to figure out why the Link reconnects when cranking as I can't perform Trigger Calibration Thanks for your help Adam

Traced backwards from #1 on the ECU and found the original ignitor wiring (cut off just below the coil). Checked continuity for all 3 wires and they go where they should do so cut off the ignitor plug & joined it back to the factory location. Still no spark but I feel I'm getting closer. No idea what it was wired to before to end up at Pin #25

Ok strangely I get continuity at Pin #25 which would be Ignition 4. Can I just change the output to Ignition 4 via PCLink?

That's correct on the wiring or at least Yellow gets 12.5V with the key on and the green goes to one side of the coil. I've tried another coil, no change. Shouldn't I get continuity between that yellow wire & Pin #1 (Ignition 1) at the ECU plug? When I do the ignition test in PCLink what should happen? Is it like injector testing where I can see/hear it working so should I see a pulse at the coil wiring or should it actually produce a regular spark every 5ms if I have a spark plug in the coil lead?

Slowly working my way through with a GTIR which apparently had a Link fitted at some stage (was last on the road in 2013) so working backwards from #1 I get no spark directly from the coil. I have found that the wiring to the distributor has been modified. I believe the previous owner has deleted the factory ignition module? Anyone familiar with GTIR's able to confirm that? Maybe there isn't one? The module that is there gets very warm so I took it off its bracket. I might put a heatsink on it. There is power to the distributor (orange/red wire). Coil also has power with key on. I have heard of people deleting the ignition modules on S14's etc but they are COP, will that work on a GTIR? Other issue I have is when trying to run Trigger Scope it disconnects but I suspect that it low voltage (battery is in the boot) so its on charge. I might borrow another battery to be sure EDIT : ECU is a NS15X Plug & Play by the way. I just checked my last log file & the ECU is seeing engine speed at least, even if it looks a little weird (I suspect it reconnected as I was cranking the engine)

Spot on. Thanks Adam. I had assumed the box would say if it has a 7-bar

Installing into a GTIR and I can't get the internal MAP sensor to even come close to the BAP. Have tried blowing in the hose even but its still miles off. Of course the calibration fails every time. Car has not been run. Where am I going wrong?