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curly

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Everything posted by curly

  1. Not really a G4x, but I am looking for data on a Link product! Looking specifically for the Link NTC1-8 sensor data. I'm using one of these on a AIM PDM setup, which uses a 2k ohm pull-up vs. Link's 1k. Can't seem to find anything in the help data, but maybe I'm missing it. I could put it in ice water and record values as it warms to a boil, but it'd be a bit easier to just calculate with this data. Thanks in advance!
  2. Unsure if it's related, but you need to fix your injector duty cycle. Either your fuel pump is struggling, injectors are too small, or fuel calcs are off. You hit a max of 116% duty cycle, modern injectors stop delivering any more fuel above ~95%. It'll probably help a lot if you're not at 10.8afr, instead of your target of 12.94. Your problem seems to start around the same time you trigger the "injector duty cycle above error high value" CEL, although I'm unsure if that's related. Perhaps the injectors are getting stuck closed until hot? hopefully one of the admins will chime in for you now that I've stuck my foot in my mouth. I see decent voltage, RPM, MAP, injector PW, TPS, etc, although your wideband stopped registering a little after the 9 minute mark. You mentioned an "event", so I'm assuming track day/race/autox? I'd highly suggest hooking up a fuel pressure sensor to the Link, it'll help immensely with diagnostics now and in the future.
  3. curly

    Adding VSS

    Just a follow up, I tentatively fixed this. I tore the speedo out of a 227,XXX cluster for testing. I was very hesitant to replace the reed switch with my amazon replacements, since bench testing with a magnet showed the reed switch working perfectly in both mine and the test unit. Spinning each with a drill resulted in an issue I've been having where there'd be random spikes to 1000-3000mph. From what I can tell, this spike was due to the original switch bouncing occasionally after it switched, causing the Link to calculate the ludicrous speeds. I cut the original out, soldered a new one on, and at least on the bench, it seems to be working properly now. Pic attached: you can see the little circuit board with two tabs that you can remove with two screws on the side and cut out and replace the reed switch. The OE one is soldered to the top, but the leads wrap around so it sits on the bottom of the board. All I had with me was a little propane torch, so after cutting the OE one out, all I could do was melt the solder pads and stick the new switch in. It sits about 1/8" further away from the mag disc, this may have something to do with the better signal too. Who cares if it works!
  4. No, the ecu needs to be powered.
  5. curly

    Link ecu mx5

    Good choice on the Link, I've tuned a handful of MX5s and BMWs on Link PNP models, you have way less to worry about with Mazdas wiring than BMWs in terms of it's age. BMWs are much more complicated, run hotter, and usually have higher mileage compared to a equal year MX5, climate/rust conditions aside. As others have said, the base maps are great, with only a few pull-up resistors to enable in the software. I do like putting ID1050x's in with their Link specific dead times, and switching to modeled fuel with (as koracing mentioned) an added fuel pressure sensor. NB fuel systems kinda suck, so it's great to monitor it and catch immediately when you run into it's limits while adding power.
  6. @koracing himself taught me (I think) to slowly rev the engine in neutral, so no load. Do this to the limiter while logging, and it should show the values increase with RPMs. Set your threshold slightly above this, so it also hopefully doesn't trigger under full load. I sort of used this to gauge if there is any abnormal wear with the engine after initial tuning. The proper way involves det cans and a lot of dyno time, as far as I know, but the above method is a bit easier.
  7. curly

    Adding VSS

    That's very true. At my mileage, that reed switch has switched on and off over 560 million times. Which is why I had 30 of them delivered for $9. I figure they're the easiest thing to try, since NB ABS sensors like @Vaughan suggested would require removing, drilling, and tapping the knuckle on top of wiring it. Also, I did consider the NB VSS at the trans, however I still appreciate the (working) street dash I've got now. The Link CAN gauge I've got is about as much as I wanted to add, I'll leave the Aim screens for my work projects. I'll give the reed switch replacement a go and report back. Thanks all!
  8. For global changes, yes. It’ll trim all cylinder equally. Assigning cyl1 to table 1, 2 to 2, etc, will allow you to trim cylinders individually. It’s also helpful to assign fuel trim tables the same, sometimes you can quell a bit of knock with a percent or two more fuel on that particular cylinder.
  9. curly

    Adding VSS

    I've got a G4x MX5 unit, and I'm wondering what the best method is for adding a VSS sensor. I have access and experience using BMW sensors, and OE ABS tone rings on my axles, but reading this thread makes it sound like it's a lot of trial and error, plus I don't think my unit has 8v available, and I may need it? Other option is the OE cruise control output, which uses a magnetic reed switch once a cable rotation, however that reading is erratic, no matter the filter setting. I've praised the benefits of Link over MS to anyone and everyone that will listen, however I will say that megasquirt seems to work with this reed switch without issue. Not sure if that's a hardware of software benefit. Long post short, is it worth doing the trial and error for the BMW sensor? Is there a way to make the factory VSS fuction? Is there a 3rd (GPS/VSS) sensor I should be considering?
  10. Bit of a mixed bag of results for the car. As a reminder, this was the first test of a brand new build. Mk60 ABS, new engine, Link G4X, entire fuel system, Aim PDM, not much beyond the fact that it's still an E36 wasn't changed. I set position 1 on the Haltech 12 position rotary knob as a virtual aux, and set that as the disable input (don't ask me how that works) for TC. Went out for the first session in VERY slippery conditions with it disabled to verify balance of the car. Driver reported it felt great. Had him start messing with TC for the next session on a drying track, reported it would allow slip, but then with his foot to the floor, allowed him to hold a minor slide without spinning. Difficult to get a great feel for it with the track changing as drastically as it was. 3rd session was completely dry, and we found out the flywheel bolts had all broken off, causing a major oil leak, among other issues. Parked it for the day to fix. THREAD DRIFT 1: Always check your thread engagement. Clutch Masters provided bolts only went in 1/4" of the crank, torque spec was 80ft/lbs, they all broke. Not happy I missed this, was fixed with 1/4" longer bolts. THREAD DRIFT 2: When you have a crankshaft issue, either at the flywheel or front damper, ALWAYS check the other end. Vibrations will travel down the crank shaft and cause issues on the other end. Knew this, and sure enough the main crank bolt had backed out. There's a good possibility it wasn't torqued properly to begin with, engine was partially built by a customer before arriving at my shop. Unfortunately, this still ended up being our best test session, since the 2nd time out the 6 small bolts on the harmonic damper backed out. I stupidly trusted the paint marks on the damper. Long story short, TC without DBW worked ok, but we haven't had enough testing time to nail down PID settings and ideal slip target. I can post settings here when I get a free minute. First race is next weekend, an 8 hour enduro that looks like it'll be wet, so that'll be a good test, hopefully the engine stays together, I'll be nut and bolting for a long time. I'll be more interested in finding out if TC, in this particular build, is contributing at all to the hardware issues I'm having. I don't think it is, but I'll only be able to explain these issues for so long before I have to come up with other theories. No idea if the engine likes this sort of constant acceleration/deceleration, so take this all with a grain of salt.
  11. curly

    furyX in porsche 997

    Look into ProDemand or similar program. I use their interactive wiring diagrams on a daily basis, and they're incredibly helpful. Thankfully for the 997, it looks like they label each pin at the DME as to what their function/source is, not all DME's get that information. I've posted one example page from a '07 3.6 to give you an idea, theres a total of 3 pages, plus ground distribution, power distribution, and computer data line diagrams you'd probably want. 997 engine diagram.pdf
  12. Torque management, at the bottom of the settings list, has to be enabled and set up for traction control to work. I too don’t have DBW, but do have a dyno and haltech rotary switch to use. I’ll hopefully be dialing it in this week on the dyno and track, and will let you know what ends up working.
  13. That's idle ignition control. I believe he's referring to the integral gain under idle actuator settings.
  14. That is what I expected, however I downloaded and redownloaded a few times, and the file you attached just shows this: I have in the past had another GAMP (genius above my pay) help me with a custom CAN output, so as long as I know the proper Endian (nvm, looks like big), and the proper multiplier/offset, I should be able to enter it and try it. Thank you again for everything!
  15. Thank you so much. I'll try this as soon as the PDM comes back from repairs I see the "receive user stream 1" in CAN setup on the pclx file, but I don't see any changes in the .zconfig, did I miss it? I only ask because id love to learn what you did so in the future I don't have to bother you
  16. I have a functioning PDM32 with 12 button keypad, with a E36 pnp G4x on CAN, again all currently functioning. However I need some help with RS3's custom CAN output and PCLink's CAN setup settings to have a keypad button trigger a CAN DI on the link. Tune and RS3 config attached below Thanks in advance Martini_e36_001.pclx Gilmore E36 PDM32.zconfig
  17. Have you looked into the exhaust to make sure there aren't any leaks back there? How long is the valve open for after tank pressure returns to zero? I'm not immediately seeing a solution, but maybe there's a way to only open the valve for a few seconds once your above conditions are met.
  18. Oof, expert in race miatas, yes, expert in NB evap systems, probably not. If it were at my shop, it'd have a 16 gallon cell and all the related vents . Make sure you can hear both the front purge valve and TPVC clicking in PWM test mode, and then my first suggestion would be to leave both off, wait for fuel tank pressure to increase, then use on/off test mode on each valve individually to see which one results in a rapid depressurization of the tank. In my mind, one or both should. Both may need to be open at the same time if I'm reading the vacuum diagram correctly.
  19. If there are any two bolt flanges back there, put your hand around them while the cars running, you'll feel a puff of exhaust pretty easily. My experience is with enduro cars, and since a lot of miata exhausts seem to have a two bolt flange back there, I've seen it a couple times when the gasket blows out only on the top, heating up the fuel. I saw a 10 foot geyser of fuel during a pit stop once, that was fun. Otherwise, check the top of the tank for a check valve like the NAs have, forget if the NBs do too.
  20. AN Volt 8 is the OE fuel tank pressure sensor, some experimentation could give you a couple points to roughly scale it, and you can monitor any changes you make the the fuel tank vent. But if I had to guess, your exhaust is heating it up, common in tracked miatas, especially if there's any exhaust leak back there. That's part of what I love about the link, they give you a clear pinout, and utilize any and all factory sensors that are wired to the header.
  21. Ooooh I get it now. I'm used to seeing MAP switches with 335s, for fuel pumps, so that's where my mind went. Thanks for the clarification.
  22. Wiring aside, I'd like to ask the question, why are you using the MAP switch? I'm racking my brain trying to figure out the scenario that needs a MAP switch that could tell the ECU anything the internal logic off the MAP sensor couldn't. Unless you're doing all of this through a MAF?
  23. That sounds like it's base configuration. If you didn't save what was already on the dash, then you wrote over it and it's gone forever. When you plug the USB in with RS3 open, don't click on the dash. Press the "receive" button, and it'll download the current config. But again, if you already sent another one, you've written over it.
  24. Looking on Holley's site: https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_iq3s_manual.pdf Pin 17 and 25 on the 34 pin connector are the CAN high/low pins respectively, his ECU should also have a CAN1 high/low. Whether or not the iQ3 has a CAN protocol for a G4X is another question.
  25. Is this an actual MXL, or an MXL 2? Those are out of production, Aim's latest RS3 doesn't even acknowledge them, so make sure not to update. That being said, at least on the MXL2 and Link's G4 CAN stream, oil pressure and gear position are included, just make sure oil pressure is set to BAR, both in the Link and AIM. I think on some of the older dashes theres only one place it'll allow you to put the gear indicator. I know because I'm typically doing a calculated gear off GPS speed and RPM, but again, it's been a few years since I've used an MXL.
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