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Hilly

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Everything posted by Hilly

  1. Ohhhhhh of course. Man I’m learning so much about CAN thanks to Link. Will give this a go once all 4 children stop yelling at me to make breakfast :-) Soo very much appreciated legends!!!
  2. Thanks @Adamw. That thread you shared was super helpful. All 8 CAN DI's are functional in the ECU now, and some are already put to use. One last question before I close this very helpful thread... Anti-theft in the g4+.... anychance I can use a CAN DI for this? My googling says no. Did see a thread that suggested using a Virtual Aux with GP output based on the CAN DI condition for anti-theft, but I'm assuming this is only supported by X. Looks to me like the '+' can only use a DI. I've got spare DI's in the ECU, and plenty of outputs in the PDM, should I just run a wire and be done with it? Thanks in advance, once again.
  3. Well, that fixed everything immediately!!! LED's and button counts toggling as expected. I'd suggest amending the docs to alert people that adding a keypad CAN channel with the appropriate ID and tx rate is required to set up a keypad. I know it might be obvious to many, but it sure would help some. I'm going to make a youtube video on this whole topic I think. Obviously, the PDM is quite new, there is very little content out there. Still have yet to access the button statuses via the ECU so will give that a crack tomorrow. Hold onto your butts for more questions :-)
  4. Hey guys. I just wanted to add further context here in case it helps. I wired in a 120ohm resistor to further isolate and create the simplest possible wiring solution. So, for now, forget the ECU and any other peripherals. I have a basic CAN backbone running from the PDM to a 120ohm resistor, branching off to the PKP-2400-Sl keypad along the way. I have enabled termination in the PDM. Using a multimeter I see ~60ohm resistance with the PDM on, as I'd expect. Testing Can H and Can L voltage gives values that would seem appropriate. I also have the keypad power connected to ADIO 2. Powering on the PDM powers on the keypad as expected with the rad-looking LED flashing sequence. I have keypad 1 Settings, Keypad Model set to the PKP-2400-Sl/LI. I have bound Button 1 to Keypad Function 1. I have set Keypad Function 1, 0 count LED color to Green. I do not see a Green LED on button 1. Is there something I am missing in this most basic of configurations? With this setup, I have tried a pletheroa of configurations for Keypad Function 1, wondering if a Control operation needed to be set up for Counts incrementations to work and have never seen LED's toggling on the keypad. I've never Keypad Function 1 counts being incremented. Obviously, this is either a wiring, hardware, or software issue. To help me diagnose I'm wondering if someone could create me a config file that is setup to support a BlinkMarine PKP-2400-Sl, and has some sort of Keypad Function tied to button 1, such that I could load the config, power up the PDM, and see a Green LED for the 0 state of Button 1. Or, something similar? Or light all 8 buttons up like a Christmas tree - I don't care. Just a software-level config that 'should' work, so I can eliminate software as the issue and keep debugging? I've attached the current basic config in case it's simpler for someone to see an issue in it. pdm-keypad-issues.pdmc
  5. Thanks @Adamw. I know this is a pretty big ask, but are you able to summarise the steps for connecting the keypad to the PDM? I (think) I'm having issues. Firstly, in the interest of isolating issues I've tried connecting the keypad directly to the PDM via Can H&L. I immediately assumed this wouldn't work as I can enable termination on the PDM, but cannot terminate on the keypad (other than manually doing so I guess). In any case, I tried selecting the correct CAN keypad as keypad 1 and then assigning a function to Button 1. While this Function has no control as yet, I still expected to see a light on the keypad button 1, either by pressing or by setting an LED color for 0 Count. No go. I have tried configuring a CAN channel with Mode = keypad 1, but I'm assuming this wouldn't be required to test whether the keypad is working with the PDM? Assuming termination was required I added a Link Can Guage (previously wired to the ECU Can bus) which uses a jumper for termination, and enabled termination on the PDM. Still no lights toggling on the keypad. I also tried adding the ECU to the network (which is terminated as per docs), the gauge (terminated), the PDM and the keypad, all on the same CAN bus from ECU. Still, no LED's on the keypad (power and ground connected correctly as I do see the flashy LED startup sequence). I'm working here on a massive assumption that even with no Control setup in Keypad Function 1 which is assigned to Button 1, I should still see LED action. Is that assumption wrong? If so is there a basic control you could suggest which is basically a no-op, but allows me to test if the keypad's functioning? Of course, the ultimate goal is to access this data via the ECU, but for now, I'd just like to see the keypad work with the PDM. Sorry for the rookie questions... Looking forward to learning more about these CAN networks. Thanks
  6. Hey, legends. I read recently that the Link keypad is not supported by G4+ (plugin in VL turbo). Is this still the case? If so, it's lucky that I ordered a Razor PDM at the same time as I read the Razor supports the keypad. Before I do some tinkering tomorrow, can anyone here confirm that I can use the keypad switches to control ECU functions like multiple boost maps, launch control, etc via the PDM? And do I wire the PDM and keypad on the same canbus network on the G4+. Thankyou muchly.
  7. @Adamw you are literally the mannnn... thank-you so very much for the speedy and detailed reply. I made the assumption the timing would be 'fine' since the car was running. But, of course, when you say it, it seems obvious that the timing doesn't matter to the ECU with a dizzy. I'll check the timing tomorrow. Thanks again!!!
  8. Hey legends. Have installed some PRP supplied coil packs via an expansion loom on a previously-running VL Turbo with G4+ plugin. Changed the Ignition mode to Direct Spark. Have left the Dwell table alone for the moment given I'm already having voltage issues. Dwell lower than recommended values but I'd still expect the car to start. Battery (relocated to boot) is in excellent condition with full charge (even tried connecting another running car battery via jumper leads). Coil packs working great - testing individual coils works perfectly. While cranking I observe (via Runtime values or by watching the Dwell table) the battery voltage dance around quite a lot. Occasionally dropping well below 10v which proves insufficient for the ECU and the green light turns off (and the laptop disconnects). Car backfires every now and then, but never starts. Always seems to drop too much voltage and stop cranking before starting. I'm anticipating an electrical issue here (as has plagued the car since I bought it - 35+ year old wiring is not my favourite), however, I thought I'd ask here first incase there is potentially some ECU controllable influences that might be at play - and that I can easily test with a few clicks, much easier than anything involving my multi-meter. Incase it's of value, I have attached the tune. Really appreciate any help. Thanks vl-coils-voltage-issue.pclr
  9. Turns out the fuel pressure regulator was faulty. Reading 60psi one minute, then 25 the next. Thanks for your help guys
  10. Hey guys. Thanks heaps for the speedy responses. Unfortunately the map is password protected. Tomorrow, I'm going to try contact the workshop who created it and see if they will remote access my laptop to remove password. Then I will provide map and log. I managed to actually drive it for a short period today. I noticed that if I adjust the throttle body open a little and start it keeping the revs above 1k, it seems to run OK. Started back firing and dropping power when approaching full boost the first time, so I babied it home, but it otherwise ran well. If you let the revs drop below ~1k though, it starts spluttering and dying and almost always stalls. Incidentally, I noticed the fuel pressure was 60psi at idle which seems high (1600cc injectors, E85). Anyway, I hope to post more info tomorrow thanks. You guys are absolute wizards
  11. Hey legends. I've got a Holden VL Turbo that is suddenly running terribly. It idles OK-ish, but if you give the accelerator a quick stab the car splutters and stalls. If you get the revs up over a few thousand, the car revs OK, but again, if you give the throttle a quick stab, it bogs and dies for a second before slowly returning to a responsive state. Given it's a 35 year old car, I've started the long process of eliminating possible causes. Have replaced plugs, checked for vac/boost leaks, cleaned many electrical connections, points, rotor button, etc (Crank Angle Sensor was next). However, while trying to remove/block vac lines in troubleshooting, I noticed the car immediately ran better when I disconnected the vac line to the Link. Revving the car was super responsive (like, almost perfect). I'm doubtful the MAP sensor is the issue, and suspect this is just masking a broader issue. But I'm not experienced enough to know what this might mean. I'm hoping this means something to someone. Like, someone might immediately recognise that this eliminates electrical issues since it runs almost perfectly with the MAP line disconnected. This might clearly indicate an issue with fuel, or a definite vac/boost leak. I really don't know, but I'm hoping someone might be able to understand the issue and explain what things might cause a car to run very poorly with MAP sensor connected, and greatly improve without to help me narrow my focus. Obviously I did not drive the car, and I realise the car will actually drive terribly without the MAP sensor connected, it just improves the throttle response so damn much that I can't get past it being a solid indicator to the right person. Any help would be sooooo unbelievably appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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