DerekAE86

Yeah being able to select how the Disable Input functions would be great. I had also initially hoped the Disable Input would just disable the updating of the table until that condition is met, rather than disabling the table being applied to the fuel calcuation also.

Like Kris has said use a analog input. With your pullup resistor going to the ECU's sensor 5v reference. This method worked pretty well. However just be aware that the first 200 seconds of the "unfilered" result is _very_ sensitive. Just sitting in the car, or wiggling around adjusting your position makes the fuel level jump around significantly. Even filling up with fuel the sloshing in the tank takes ages to settle down. Felt a bit self concious sitting at the petrol station putting 5l in at a time to build a good calibration curve and having to wait a min or so each time for it to stablize hahaha.

That would be between the Link CAN Lambda module and the Sensor itself yeah? Because it if there was a wiring issue between the CAN Lambda module and the body it's unlikely the module would detect or report back errors at all. I still get Lambda Temp reported back and it still appears to be heating correctly (ramps up to 780ish quickly) so it doesn't look like a supply voltage/current issue.

Ah ok. So this is just a internal failure of the sensor and nothing external in the wiring/power supply?

The included sensor in the kit died today giving Error 54 / Excessive Pump Current. The reading would be around a Lambda of 10.000 if it read at all. But looking at the log it was also giving Error 24 sometimes. Was just curious what that error indicades? The engine has been consuming a bit of oil so I'm about to rebuild it with new rings/valve stem seals etc. So my guess is excess oil in the exhaust would have killed the sensor? Though some insight on Error 24 would be nice just to make sure I'm on the right track and I don't have some other issue lurking.

Thanks Vaughan, that's exactly what I was after.

I've wired in a fuel sender via a 100ohm pull up to 5v. I didn't put any capacitor in the circuit because I was planning on smoothing it via a mathblock. I used av(a,200) so it averages the value over a decently long time. However I noticed that when the car is first started the GP Output starts at 0 before jumping up to the actual value (assume theres a brief period before the 5v kicks in?) This means the fuel level starts at 0 and slowly ramps to the actual level. Is there a way to put a delay in the initial check so the value starts at what the actual level is?

I'm not familiar with it at all. But cars of this generation are typically pretty basic so it's easy to completely replace the ECU. If there is any other module or feature that relies on an output from the factory ECU, then as long as that signal is known the Link should be able to simulate it.

I wonder if engines with higher compression can overcome this a little more? Or perhaps adjusting the timing along with the lambda target could help?

I've been toying with the idea to setting up a Lambda offset for cruise condition to lean out the engine. Something like if the RPM is within +/-200 rpm of the cruise zone with TPS delta is less than a certain amount for around 30s for example it turn on the Lambda offset table. I know there are some manufactures that do this already. Apparently Mazda's Skyactiv leans out to 65:1 which is like 4.400 Lambda - But I assume the engine is specifically designed with this in mind. Has anyone played with lean burn for low load conditions before? Is there any tips for determining what your engine will safely achieve? I assume it'll be influnced by many factors; na/turbo, compression ratio, port/direct injection, how efficient your cooling is?

Why would you want to? Link ECUs are a full replacement to a factory ECU, not a "piggy back".

https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear You can fill out all your gear ratio/final drive/tyre size information here and then calculate the rpm/speed to ratio to use.

Depends on how far you want to go. I'd go for the MonsoonX since it'll cover everything you need + a little extra for future expandability. But anything above that will just give you more options and freedom to really play and add more features, inputs, outputs and modern things like DBW, etc. https://linkecu.com/which-ecu/

Attach a copy of your tune so we can see how you've configured it

What display? And how are you planning on outputting an AN or DI to it?