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atlex

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Everything posted by atlex

  1. atlex

    M5X Pnp Road Tuning

    Better set a rev limit in the engine protection area - and either delete the 7200 column (in axis configuration) or set it to the same numbers as the 7000 had. CCL IAT correction should absolutely be off in modeled mode, but I'm not sure if that's the case for trad mode.
  2. atlex

    M5X Pnp Road Tuning

    I've reviewed your map/log..things that stick out - Fuel Table 1: It's traditional mode - it's a g4x, c'mon go modelled mode it's the superior way. modelled mode takes into account the MAP signal in the calculated PW, so you don't have to scale your table out with the boost with perfect accuracy - this can give you more cells to use in the more variable part of the map. if you go over 7000rpm you'll start running very lean and then stop fueling over 7200rpm - that whole column is 0..... checking the mix map against the log you've got some very rich vacuum areas and some quite lean boost areas (which match your AFR target..) AFR targets: The map is targeting a stoich 0 MGP, which is probably not ideal ? -20 is fine stoich though. and 15.5 is a nice place to be for eco cruise. You probably want to target 13:1 AFR at least for the 0+ MGP areas and ideally push to 11.5:1 AFR for a safety factor at 6psi or above. LEAN IS MEAN! Don't be mean..
  3. My tuning faptop has a 3-hour-no-sleep setting as long as the battery is over 15%. Screen is permitted to go off though. Despite the onboard logging, it's often faster to log to laptop for rapid analysis since there is no wait/download time. I have a special 'empty' screen in pclink which boosts the logging hz.
  4. according to the diagrams I get off parts sites, the 258 017 169 *is* a six wire one. and 0281 004 821 is also a six-wire one, since it's an LSU4.9 ? what's the missing wire ? the resistor has to be there for it to have calibration. They both appear to have the same connector, at least based on parts diagrams. I'd just try it and see. If one of them really only has 5 pins, it may be damaged ?
  5. Alright mate. I'll leave it here informal like.. and await the next release <B
  6. You could call this a 'Disable Update' function I guess, with an inverse - that is a function that returns 1 for the bits we don't want to update for (warmup, high iat, mostly) - is there a more formal way than posting here, for these sorts of feature requests ?
  7. echoing esb00.. full tps, the map signal with ITBs is almost always too weak for accurate load calculation, especially at closed or part throttle. I've an ITB car with 272 cams and it idles at 70 KPA.. but I know the real idle is more like 35kpa on these engines without ITBs. You don't need dual table fuel yet, so stick with 1. How to setup the break points for the TPS axis? Bare in mind the air flow difference between 0 and 10% TPS is massive, whereas the difference between 70% TPS and 100% TPS barely registers. You want the break points tight gradually increasing as you go up, [0,10,20,30 won't cut it...] start with something more like the fibbionaci sequence and don't be afraid to add more points as needed. Consider something like 0, 0.5, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 17, 21, 26, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100 ? Sounds like an awesome engine build. Good luck!
  8. atlex

    Link ecu mx5

    You'll always have me voting down the ME products. I've literally removed those to go G4X on both my Eunoses. COPS don't make that much difference on average power Mazdas and the link understands wasted spark just fine, but any decent WBO2 will work - I recommend one where it isn't using the whole 0-5v range, so a modern aem-x for instance, where the 0-0.5v and 4.5-5v+ show unready or error state.
  9. atlex

    Uncontrollable boost.

    If by wastegate you mean the wastegate actuator, I'm fairly sure it shouldn't bleed anything at all - it should be open as long as there is pressure and it shouldn't leak down. You can test it with a tyre pressure pump. You don't need to remove it to test it. 8PSI sounds good for the range for a standard type actuator.
  10. Currently the LTT options in the new G5 flavour firmware is a bit binary.. Off, On, or Disable Input I've been using the LTT Disable Input with a math block like IAT>50,ECT<80,Engine Runtime>60 the Disable Input covers both updates and application - with it disabled, the LTT doesn't apply trim but doesn't update the table either. I'd like to get the best of both worlds... I'd like a feature to have LTT updates disabled but the trim constantly applied - my intuition (system sperg intuition) tells me that combined with general CLL this would give a better effect. In other words, I think I could trust the LTT to give better general results in most conditions especially when the table is filled out, but I'd rather not have it constantly updating the table when outside of normal running conditions. I.e. Hot restart or stop start traffic or similar edge-cases.
  11. There's several ways cylinders can leak. head gasket.. piston/rings mis-sized/gapped.. valves not properly lapped or out of lash spec, cracked walls... Also you sort of need a leakdown tester and/or permanent airsource (electric bike pump? probably too noisy) if you want to identify where the air is going - you can then listen at the exhaust, intake, coolant pressure cap, oil filler cap.. Best to ask the engine builder. I hope it's something simple.
  12. Hi Folks, I've been zeroing out the warmup enrichment tables on my maps and I'm seeing great results in cold start and even in hot restart (with the post-start as the way to help but eventually tail off). I think I understand how the charge temp approximation table works but I'd like some confirmation.. At lower air flow/MAP the temperature of the engine dominates and should be used as the signal for determining air temp for fueling calculation. I've got 80/90/100 in these areas of the CTA table. So for a cold start, is it purely 'this charge is cold, add more fuel' ? but then when the motor is warmed up it leans out appropriately ? Or is there something else ? Thanks
  13. I went through this setup on my EP3 motor/gearbox which has similar-ish ratios published. I initially tried the user-entered ratio per what I could find, but they didn't work so I decided to see what numbers the calibrated mode gave me. the 1/2/3/4/5/6 ratio on my car ended up at 212, 138, 100, 76, 60, 48 , indicating that I'd never factored in the Final Drive (stock 4.764 on my car) and really didn't know what the relationship between tyre size and the speed was either. Given there's no place to put in the FD in this setup, You'd have to factor that in as well, even in the normalization mode. Sure 5 is 1:1 but it's really 1:1:FD As the others have suggested the ecu-calibrated mode seems easier than doing the math, it takes about three minutes to do on a quiet straight road, with a 15 second stop - and selecting but not hitting enter on the next gear to calibrate (until it is in the correct gear). Be interested to see what numbers you get.
  14. It's happened to me too. Restore from backup ? I backup my layouts & maps like an OCD bear.
  15. And here it is - Much nicer than Maths blocks for this particular use-case.
  16. DHL dropped the fixed ECU around earlier today.. results are clean and good :-) Voltage offset now looks normal and the signal is clean! <B Link <B
  17. atlex

    Iat Mode Question

    I know this is someone else's thread but I'm using both the warmup enrichment table and the chart temp correction table in all my maps (3 cars) but not the IAT correction table - the way it reads, it sounds like I shouldn't be using the warmup enrichment table either... I might zero it out and see how it starts up cold.. please forgive me if I'm getting the wrong end of the stick.
  18. atlex

    Iat Mode Question

    Just to be sure - when you say warmup correction you don't mean warmup enrichment ?
  19. Check your messages, I've sent you an example ITB map for the same ITBs but different motor. It has the knock and decent fuel/ignition tables to make a good starting point.
  20. Hola de Emporda (Catalunya)! Mi motor passear el ITV facil, y lambda es en control pero no necessitas por es un coche sin catalizador. Typically the 4AGE ITBs have only two map source ports - one on cyl1 and one on cyl4 - as well as a big port on cyl4 to run the brake booster. You could tap the 2nd and 3rd runners for more and then attach them to a vacuum distribution block to try and get more accuracy but it's not worth it and most people don't do this. Don't be confused with the ports that are closer to the throttle body itself, those aren't any good for a vacuum. I don't know what those were for. They're almost at the blade rather than properly behind it, so aren't any good. My 4AGE ITB tune (it's a Mazda B6 motor, RS Aizawa 'kit') runs with a TPS load axis only, the MAP is hooked up but it is just there as it is also the reference for the FPR. It's perfectly good as long as your TPS is giving valid, repeatable numbers. For added benefit you can go 'hyper fine' on the low TPS parts of your fuel map - 0%, 0.5% 1%, 2% 4% - the difference in flow between 70% TPS and 100% is minimal, the relative difference between 0% and 1% is huge. That said I'm actually looking to find a way to get a more accurate TPS on there than the Toyota Stock one. If anyone has ideas / knows of an adapter ? I'd love to run a hall effect rather than wipe type TPS. P.s. I'd love to go 7AGE, I've got a 7AFE block in my 4WD Carib and this would be one of the paths to glory for that car.
  21. Totally depends on how you whether you want to tap into the existing loom, when you're still going to need to run wires anyway, the overall effort just running 4 wires is the same as running 2, and my take is that I don't like messing with existing loom wiring, it always feels ugly to me, and I just try to avoid it unless the alternative is worse. Suggest you look at the XSL loom, since that has the 8 pin connector already on the end of the pigtail, with individually colour coded wires.
  22. see WRX11.pdf - looks like you've only got one expansion port which doesn't have a generic ANVOLT -WRX11.pdf states example the MAF sensor is not commonly used in a performance application, so if an extra analog input is required the MAF input pin ANVolt8 can be redirected to the expansion connector by moving the jumper to the right position. For one bosch combined sensor you'll need a 5v, GND, ANVOLT and ANTEMP or ANVOLT with a pull-up resistor. I suggest some protective sheathing over the four wires. If you already are using the 5v or GND you'll need to add another line spliced for those. In terms of the configuration in pclink just go to analogue inputs and specify the correct pin/wire for the and ANVOLT/ANTEMP and the bosch calibration. The chaps from Haltech have an awesome video cover this in terms of crimping. I recommend you buy a similar crimp tool if you don't have one already. If you look up 'haltech how to crimp sensors the right way' and flip to around minute 12 they cover the bosch combo sensor in detail. I can't link directly as the forum software thinks there's an emoji in the url. I recently followed this guide myself for the same combo sensor and found the little seals interfering with the closure so left the seals loose on each wire and pushed them in afterwards with a 2mm screw driver.
  23. I'm under no pressure to complete tuning so would rather arrange connection now than later. There's a ticket open with tech support. I'll pass my address details over on that and then proceed to decant the ecu from its case. Alex
  24. My oscilloscope still isn't calibrated as I don't have a regulated power supply (...yet.. it's on order!) but I have managed to get a decent signal out of the sensors. This was with ignition and fuel - the motor was just idling. Here's the run I got out out of the ex cam sensor. It's showing an offset of -180mv at the bottom (calibration needed..) p2p is probably more important here and that's close to 3.8v in the calibration mode it shows a -0.23v with the probe shorted to its own ground - so if you wish, you could read the -180mv as being a 50mv ground voltage signal. a far cry from 0.91v :/
  25. I put some paperclip in precisely as described. Sat at 0.91v without the engine turning, never went below 0.91v when it was turning. Ignition and fueling were disabled for these tests. The screenshot below is of me turning the motor over without the LG being connected for the CKP, but with the a5a7 short in. TriggerScopeLog-ckpgrounddisconnected-a5a7shorted-startermotorturning.llgx TriggerScopeLog-groundsconnected-a5a7shorted-notstarted.llgx TriggerScopeLog-groundsconnected-startermotorturning.llgx
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