TranzerZ

That's good to know. Thank you Adam as always. I'm gonna troubleshoot some more and hope it's not the BCM.

Hi All, I just got my car back from the paint shop and now none of the power windows and door locks are responding. No sound, no clicks. Just dead. I checked all connections and even replaced the master switch actuator. There doesn't seem to be a dedicated fuse for them but I checked a few of them anyways. It may be that the BCM went bad. So my question is, if I get a replacement BCM, it needs to be programmed by the dealership but I have the Link ECU. Would that be a problem? Is there an alternative solution? Also, if anyone else ran into a similar problem, please share your experience and solutions.

Ok, so I finally figured it out. It was a bad spark plug coil. Thank goodness it was something minor but I'm still concerned about the CAN Lambda. Thanks to all for helping me resolve this. I do have another question though. I'm trying to calibrate my temp sensor but on Cal Table it doesn't have "Output Table Start" or "Output Table Increments" and the table itself only has 1 column. How do I expand this?

Temperature seems very high right? My mechanic screwed the 2 CAN Lambda units onto the firewall right behind the engine. Is that a bad spot for it? Is this something I have to replace now?

So I spotted something unusual on my last log starting at about 1:51. My Lambda 2 has an error "Nernst Cell resistance too low." Then it changes to "40 IPE or APE Error." https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Teowo96BToUxr9SAf6GOzK1J_cCgYZui/view?usp=drive_link

Or maybe it's this... https://drive.google.com/file/d/19hf38z2H1mbL0VCGKfN5b4wFiS-exQfE/view?usp=drive_link

I think I got the tune file. I did another short run. I may go change out the spark plugs for now and see if that's the problem. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PwbzBZKHW85blJHMIG6LpalYVPl3ceKH/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Teowo96BToUxr9SAf6GOzK1J_cCgYZui/view?usp=drive_link

I had it tuned about 4 months ago and it's been driving great ever since. The issue started just last week and the 2 things I did differently before that was installing an exhaust cutout (which I'm going to have it removed very soon) and adding Lucas Ethanol Conditioner for the first time. The tuner told me he created several tables to adjust to ethanol content/level and for pump gas. Not sure if adding the Conditioner created the problem. How do I get the tune file?

Sorry about that. The shared settings were changed. You can try any of the links now. This one below is from today. The problem is getting worse. Now it sputters every time I accelerate. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ywZJqUQHBa4H9MOD8nBOaeObx7SnQGci/view?usp=drive_link

So the issue seems to be getting worse. My car was jerking in the lower RPMs, in any gears, and still chugging. Can anyone check my log to see what may be wrong? Adam? Please? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LRBOHNYJeDJupppIwCiCDmQsdCYPNfAL/view?usp=drive_link

Hi Everyone, I had an electric exhaust cutout installed last week on my boosted 2004 G35, thinking that it will open up my exhaust flow and increase my performance, but all it does is make my car loud lol. I'm guessing maybe I need to re-tune the car with the cutout valve open, so I've been just driving it around since with it shut closed. But since yesterday, my car started to have an exhaust chugging/sputtering. It does not happen when I first start up the car. Only when I start driving for awhile. Doesn't seem to be affecting my performance when driving either. When I let me car idle at the end of a trip, it will continue to chug/sputter for awhile but will eventually stop. I was wondering if it has something to do with the exhaust flowing into the short pipe where the closed cutout valve is, creating a weird turbulence. Can someone check my logs to see if there is anything unusual, and hoping it has nothing to do with my fuel/ignition, or worse, my engine. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XZVRwBCwKlPLaT5sCIqyBzY6IE5JZyP7/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pYUQbc5rK-il-Ni5U2xWl5Fan-EwCliY/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EtnBfnPfcQopVnZrVWWtaBawoyOj2hn_/view?usp=drive_link

Thanks for your help as always Adam! So knowledgeable...

Hello all. I have an Infiniti G35 and I was thinking of sharing my ethanol sensor 12V line with my boost solenoid 12V line. Would that be ok or is it a bad idea and may cause some interference? Also, how do I set the ethanol parameters in G4X?

Another question. My AUX 6 & 7 is for the O2 Heater RF & LF, respectively. I'm using CAN-Lambda so not sure why it always say Active on PCLink. Can I use AUX 6 & 7 for something else, or even disable them?

I did the TPS and APS calibration and gradually reduced the dashpot offset. Idles good now. Thanks! Now to work on the boost solenoid lol. I wired it to the cigarette lighter fuse using the add-a-fuse adapter. Works fine but I think it's back feeding. Maybe i'll add a relay to it.