TranzerZ

That's good to know. Thank you Adam as always. I'm gonna troubleshoot some more and hope it's not the BCM.

Hi All, I just got my car back from the paint shop and now none of the power windows and door locks are responding. No sound, no clicks. Just dead. I checked all connections and even replaced the master switch actuator. There doesn't seem to be a dedicated fuse for them but I checked a few of them anyways. It may be that the BCM went bad. So my question is, if I get a replacement BCM, it needs to be programmed by the dealership but I have the Link ECU. Would that be a problem? Is there an alternative solution? Also, if anyone else ran into a similar problem, please share your experience and solutions.

Ok, so I finally figured it out. It was a bad spark plug coil. Thank goodness it was something minor but I'm still concerned about the CAN Lambda. Thanks to all for helping me resolve this. I do have another question though. I'm trying to calibrate my temp sensor but on Cal Table it doesn't have "Output Table Start" or "Output Table Increments" and the table itself only has 1 column. How do I expand this?

Temperature seems very high right? My mechanic screwed the 2 CAN Lambda units onto the firewall right behind the engine. Is that a bad spot for it? Is this something I have to replace now?

So I spotted something unusual on my last log starting at about 1:51. My Lambda 2 has an error "Nernst Cell resistance too low." Then it changes to "40 IPE or APE Error." https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Teowo96BToUxr9SAf6GOzK1J_cCgYZui/view?usp=drive_link

Or maybe it's this... https://drive.google.com/file/d/19hf38z2H1mbL0VCGKfN5b4wFiS-exQfE/view?usp=drive_link

I think I got the tune file. I did another short run. I may go change out the spark plugs for now and see if that's the problem. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PwbzBZKHW85blJHMIG6LpalYVPl3ceKH/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Teowo96BToUxr9SAf6GOzK1J_cCgYZui/view?usp=drive_link

I had it tuned about 4 months ago and it's been driving great ever since. The issue started just last week and the 2 things I did differently before that was installing an exhaust cutout (which I'm going to have it removed very soon) and adding Lucas Ethanol Conditioner for the first time. The tuner told me he created several tables to adjust to ethanol content/level and for pump gas. Not sure if adding the Conditioner created the problem. How do I get the tune file?

Sorry about that. The shared settings were changed. You can try any of the links now. This one below is from today. The problem is getting worse. Now it sputters every time I accelerate. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ywZJqUQHBa4H9MOD8nBOaeObx7SnQGci/view?usp=drive_link

So the issue seems to be getting worse. My car was jerking in the lower RPMs, in any gears, and still chugging. Can anyone check my log to see what may be wrong? Adam? Please? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LRBOHNYJeDJupppIwCiCDmQsdCYPNfAL/view?usp=drive_link

Hi Everyone, I had an electric exhaust cutout installed last week on my boosted 2004 G35, thinking that it will open up my exhaust flow and increase my performance, but all it does is make my car loud lol. I'm guessing maybe I need to re-tune the car with the cutout valve open, so I've been just driving it around since with it shut closed. But since yesterday, my car started to have an exhaust chugging/sputtering. It does not happen when I first start up the car. Only when I start driving for awhile. Doesn't seem to be affecting my performance when driving either. When I let me car idle at the end of a trip, it will continue to chug/sputter for awhile but will eventually stop. I was wondering if it has something to do with the exhaust flowing into the short pipe where the closed cutout valve is, creating a weird turbulence. Can someone check my logs to see if there is anything unusual, and hoping it has nothing to do with my fuel/ignition, or worse, my engine. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XZVRwBCwKlPLaT5sCIqyBzY6IE5JZyP7/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pYUQbc5rK-il-Ni5U2xWl5Fan-EwCliY/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EtnBfnPfcQopVnZrVWWtaBawoyOj2hn_/view?usp=drive_link

Thanks for your help as always Adam! So knowledgeable...

Hello all. I have an Infiniti G35 and I was thinking of sharing my ethanol sensor 12V line with my boost solenoid 12V line. Would that be ok or is it a bad idea and may cause some interference? Also, how do I set the ethanol parameters in G4X?

Another question. My AUX 6 & 7 is for the O2 Heater RF & LF, respectively. I'm using CAN-Lambda so not sure why it always say Active on PCLink. Can I use AUX 6 & 7 for something else, or even disable them?

I did the TPS and APS calibration and gradually reduced the dashpot offset. Idles good now. Thanks! Now to work on the boost solenoid lol. I wired it to the cigarette lighter fuse using the add-a-fuse adapter. Works fine but I think it's back feeding. Maybe i'll add a relay to it.

I need help again. I installed a few things. New bigger radiator with fans, 5/8 plenum spacer, 75mm throttle body with adapters (from a 70mm), Link IAT-8, and an AEM boost solenoid. When I first started up my car yesterday, everything seemed fine. It was actually even idling good. I let it run for 10 minutes then shut it off. Then I enabled the boost solenoid and tested it and it was clicking fine. I started my car back up and the idle started going cuckoo, bouncy, so I shut it off for a bit. I started back up and it was idling around 2000 rpm and very lean. Tried a couple times, same thing. I shut it off for the night and unplug everything so the ECU can power cycle down. Today, I plugged everything back up, started the car and same thing, idling at 2000 rpm but at least it wasn't running as lean. Does it has something to do with the new throttle body? Maybe have to readjust the TPS and AP? Was it possible that my boost solenoid wiring may have had a back feed to the ECU because I connect one wire directly to 12V ACC from the fuse box? I'm thinking that I should have connected a relay in between. One of the performance shop here even recommend it to connect the 5V instead. See link below for my log today. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A-crpn7BF3L_vR9EyOTox6NE9Hr9cKOs/view?usp=sharing

It's been a long rainy weekend again but the O2 sensors are placed at the locations I mentioned above. Ok, so couple more things I need help on. First, I could not get my boost solenoid to respond with Link. I could not hear it clicking when doing the test so instead, I just went ahead and bought one expansion loom and the Link IAT sensor and will just wire them directly. I have not opened up the ECU but I'm assuming there are 2 ports to connect the loom? Expansion 1-8 or 9-16? So for the boost solenoid, assuming I will use the 9-16, I can just wire one to 12V ignition in my fuse box and the other wired to Aux 8 or Aux 9? And would I need to solder any resistors into the wire? And for the IAT sensor, one wire go to the Ground and the other to Temp 4? Lastly, I noticed my "Knock" is not enabled in my ECU. Since my car has a stock knock sensor, how do I go about enabling that?

I have a single turbo setup. I recalled seeing the two CAN-Lambda O2 sensors connected right after the manifolds, one on each side, before the turbo, but I'll double check when I have time. The 3rd O2 sensor was connected after the turbo.

Ah, you know what...I think the 3rd O2 sensor location is for an AFR gauge setup. Would that be an ideal location for it?

I'm glad you guys keep questioning me =D So I went to dig a little deeper and started poking around. It's very tight with a turbo setup but I figured it out for sure this time lol. I have THREE O2 sensors! Two O2 sensors near each of the headers which connects to the CAN-Lambda and the one on top is the stock O2 connected to the pipe of the turbine exhaust gas outlet. One of the LSU4.9 wires were tied to the stock harness to keep it neat so I was misled when I ran my fingers to feel where it was leading. Sorry guys! LOL. But what is the purpose of the stock O2 sensor?

That is what I saw and that is what I pulled out (the prior pic I posted). I'm not kidding lol. And yes, it was probably never working because once I was able to get my hands on a laptop, PCLink, and connected to the ECU, I immediately noticed the error. So I purchased a new Bosch LSU4.9 and connect it directly to the CAN-Lambda. I even took saved the Screen shot of the error and sent it to my mechanic. He did not respond to me on it.

IKR! But good thing he didn't change the connector on the CAN-Lambda. This is what I saw and what I think the mechanic did. The stock O2 was connected to the stock harness. When I follow the stock harness a foot back, I see a LSU4.9 connector harness branches out and connects to the CAN-Lambda. I'm guessing, instead of buying a new LSU4.9 O2 sensor, he McGuiver-ed it to work with my stock one. Probably found an old LSU4.9 lying around, cut the sensor off, and use the wire to tap into my stock harness...geez. I haven't had much time to work on my car but I'll post my updates when I can.

I am definitely sure about the mechanic using my stock O2 sensor lol. See attached pic of the O2 connector I pulled out. This sensor and the CAN-Lambda were both plugged into my stock harness. Maybe that's why PCLink said the O2 was faulty because it never detected it in the first place? Or maybe there was an O2 extension-like in my stock harness? I'm shopping around for an IAT sensor. I see that there are a couple of 2 different sized thread fittings already welded on my intake tube near the MAF sensor. I see Link has the IAT1-8 but a bit on the pricy side. Is the Haltech or AEM ones good? Or maybe the Fast-Response GM Delphi? What do you recommend? And I'll need your help again on the wiring =D. Maybe use the MAF connector?

One more thing. I connected the boost solenoid as you had suggested. One wire to the red/black (tested with my voltmeter confirmed 12V when car is on) and the other wire to blue. I assigned it on PCLink to Aux 4 and as open loop but how would I know if Link actually recognizes the solenoid?

I don't see an IAT sensor installed anywhere so is Link ECU reading the IAT temp off of the MAF sensor? Also, a few days after I got my car back from the mechanic, one of my O2 sensors went bad. I noticed he reused my stock wideband sensor with the CAN-Lambda instead of the LSU4.9 that Link recommends. I changed just that faulty one that I was able to easily access in the engine bay but I haven't checked the one underneath. If that one is not an LSU4.9, would that be related to my issues?