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Plenty of food for thought here, thanks Adamw!!

Good day! This car is equipped with a StormX, RHD ITB's controlling a flat 6. Attached is an 11 second log taken with ECU powered up without engine running. Log display is scaled to show variation, how much variation is normal? Since installation, we have struggled with TPS noise. Started with generic BMW TPS, switching to OEM TPS cleaned up the signal a bit, but it still fluctuates so much it impacts channels downstream: CLL, Accel, etc. Once we ran separate power and ground leads for both TPS and MAP from ECU to skip any other sensors imparting noise and still cannot seem to quiet TPS. Have I missed something? In the process of making sure signal path is clean, ground path from battery - to ECU and engine bay have been polished. Does anyone have any hot tips on conditioning TPS (and/or MAP) output? Maybe a math channel to AVG the signal over a short time period? TPS only log screen cap below to illustrate noise. Log and Tune here -> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gtL3go2bZVh1KD3eE-drBYKPPt2_WWUR?usp=sharing

Recently updated an 80 Porsche 911 to a COP system including G4X and two lead coils with an ignitor in between. The new motor has ~ 1200 miles on it and I have gone through two sets of coils(2x6), two sets of ignitors(2x2). Is there a setting I have missed in the G4X or am I experiencing defective manufacture and/or dodgy hardware? The coils are generic F6T570 and the ignitors are Vaico V24-70-0027.

Thanks Adamw and DerekAE86!! RFTM: RPM Lockout... I foolishly plugged in 1250 assuming was the target RPM, silly. Details matter! Thanks! Also, I am sure adding a speed sensor would help clear matters up. However, lowering the RPM lockout to a reasonable level has stopped the jitter at cruise, no surprise! The use ( abuse? ) of the ignition idle control is a result being at my wits end trying to get the idle to tame down without too much ECU intervention. I have seen plenty of posts with folks frustrated with getting the ITB motors to idle without intervention and am still trying to get there myself. I have spent some time making sure the butterflys are just at their seat, balanced them over and over and still the idle, without much ECU intervention, is ~2K. Per an oft referenced writeup by jpnovak ( of pcar fame ) I made an 'idle well' in the ignition table such that in the idle range (1K - 1.2K, TPS 0 - 1 ) the ignition is 8 degrees BTDC. A little more reading this evening suggests that a motor with a 'bigger' cam may require a little more air, so maybe the butterflys are too tight at close. Could be as simple as too much fuel in that range? Will experiment with that this evening! Thanks again!!! mc

Porsche 911 - 3.0 - EFI ITB - Slightly aggressive cams - StormX - new build Car is still running rich, working on refining the master fuel vals and fuel table. Finally have Ignition Idle Control behaving most of the time ( no idle control valve ) but have seen where the motor hangs at ~2500RPM and will not go lower until load forces it to around 1900 or so, then Idle Control seems to take over. Below is a screen grab: Motor is warm and is at idle, then a blip of the throttle sends RPM past the critical point and it hangs at ~2500 RPM. What is causing this? Also, I notice sometimes at cruise, it seems the idle control is trying to interfere as exhibited with a retard of timing, when ideally during cruise, the config would remain more static. I imagine if I had a speed input, that could be configured in the Idle Control settings to prohibit the Idle Control algorithm interfering while the car is in motion, however, what if I am at cruise and am almost to the exit ramp and want to shift out of gear and coast to the stop? Assuming this is coming from my ignorance of Idle controls... Any hints from the braintrust? This link includes the current tune and log file used in the screen grab above: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1r8Ov-H4WvwATwXLDTlLCQjBqWIwvCeTC?usp=sharing Thanks folks! m

RE Thermal shock: Before installing sensor #4, I configured a relay to be energized after the motor starts via an output of the ECU. So far, this sensor still works. Again, thanks to all for the replies. It takes a village...

@KoRacing - That would have been valuable intel when I had to replace the first Innovate controller with the second Innovate controller, then sensor #2, sensor #3, and for good measure, sensor #4 All within 700 miles on a new motor! Still picking up skills on projects of this scale and trying to keep number of changing variables through the process at a minimum, and assumed the failure of 02 sensors were due to over rich startups, and whatever other rational the Innovate rep relayed. A quick search reveals plenty of woes related to this kit. WOW! Any recommendations for a solid platform for step 3?

Thanks Confused and Adamw! Will clear the event log and error codes with a better understanding of how the ECU behaves. The Lambda sensor is an Innovate, so I will endeavor to adjust the output settings for a margin at the extreme ends of the output values. Cheers!!

Greetings All! Have noticed a number of errors in Event Log recently. So I set up a timeline to get a better understanding of what is happening as reported by the Fault Codes channel. Through time, there is a periodic display of Fault Codes. Hmmm periodic, independent of what the motor is doing... Examining the steps in the Fault Codes 'wave' the lowest step is 'Analog Voltage 1 above Error High value' AnVolt1 is connected to the Lambda sensor and AnVolt1 ErrHigh is set to 4.95V. At this point AnVolt1 is registering 1.13V, which is well below the 4.95V Error High setting. The next step in the Fault Codes graph complains AnVolt1 Below Error Low (0.01V) value while AnVolt1 is 1.64V. Nope! Next step laments AnVolt4 (1.00V) Above Error High (2.75V). Again, nope. Next, AnVolt4 (1.00V) below Error Low value (0.75V.) Fake news. Lambda1 Signal Error. From Help, we see: If Lambda 1 is connected via an Analog Voltage input (It is!) the voltage has gone out of range and there should be an accompanying Error Low or Error High code from the Analog Voltage input. If Lambda 1 is connected via CAN the the CAN device has reported an error. Sensor or wiring may be faulty or disconnected. If Lambda 1 is connected via an An Volt input refer to the matching An Volt Error for more information, if it is connected via CAN refer to the Lambda TPS Signal Error. How to get a deeper understanding? TPS is AnVolt4 and reading 1.00V, which is between ErrHigh and ErrLow, so what is the Error? The peak of the Fault Code wave is 'Analog 5V Supply Error' where the 5V Analog Supply status evaluates to 'OK' Also noticed Database Error evaluates to 'Settings Overflow' which remains constant in time. A quick search reveals the suggestion to update firmware, currently the ECU is here: Would it be reasonable to conclude an update to latest firmware may squash some of the buggieness or are there other issues afoot this writer does not understand. Attaching pclx and log referred to in images above. Screen grabs have been culled from the 'Power Stats' view; layout included here -> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1q27tYSZgvhU6hZcWKhawgHICn8ZOVAhr?usp=sharing

Will recheck the sync across ITB's straight away, maybe locknut on adjustment screw was not sufficiently torqued last time around. No discrete idle valve in this install, proper idle has been a struggle. Idle has been smooth around 1300RPM, but too high. Maybe its time to consider an idle valve install. Working on converting the tune to AlphaN over the coming days. Single plug, coils are generic Bosch style, ignitors are VEMO V24-70-0027. Do these components ever partially fail or is the failure mode either good or bad? As mentioned above, running test mode for coils and injectors results in audible clicks for both components. It is curious to me that the intensity/volume varies so much from one coil/injector to the next. Some click loud enough to hear in the cabin, others require an ear in the engine bay to hear. Will update the deadtime table and idle target table. Thanks a million, Adam! Will go over this in the next day or two and report back.

Greetings all! Recently rebuilt 911 3.0 w/ ITBs, COP, G4X. Took the car out for a test run and it suddenly started to backfire and behaved as though there was a spark issue. One of the COP ignitors died a few weeks ago and presented similar symptoms. The ignitor was replaced and the car drove fine afterwards. During the recent test run, the car presented similar symptoms to the torched ingnitor a few weeks ago. Stumbled home, ran ignition test and injector test, all COPs and Injectors replied. Even though we can prove there is spark, how does one know the energy of the spark is up to spec? Peeped dwell table to make sure it was not too much for the ignitors, I think it is OK. Have been struggling with what must be a ground issue, but that has been true since installation some time ago. This can be seen by noise in the TPS and MAP signals. The sudden performance change points to hardware failure of some type, but am not sure what. Attached is the current tune and a small log file of a start-up and driving the car a few feet to put a load on the motor. Fuel table is not perfect, I know. But the car once ran pretty well with the same map. There is also a new 'blip' present, this seems to coincide spikes in noise - no surprise. Also noticed upon throttle input at ~ 1:16, the idle goes from 1300RPM to 2300RPM and does not settle back down. Thanks all! M. 052623_ColdStartStumbleWhenThrottleApplied.llgx 502723_InjDeadTime_IgnitionAxis_FuelSmooth_FromPreviousTune.pclx

Update: New two-wire sensor set up, still trying to get calibration correct. However, the TPS is foiling me at every turn. The sensor was grounded with MAP and Lambda sensor. Have moved TPS to separate ground, at idle it seems quiet. However, once the throttle is moved, RPM slightly increases, and the noise shows up! Unplugging and reconnecting the sensor will arrest the noise until touching the throttle again. Is this a bad TPS? I think it is a BMW Throttle Position Sensor 4166000. Any ideas folks? Thanks!! TPSNoiseProblem - 2023-04-17.llgx monday.pclx

Adam, thanks for the reply. When ordering the ITB conversion kit with StormX, I was a bit suspicious of the single-wire temp sensor from a noise perspective. This can be easily remedied as the switch is easily replaced and I have a few extra signal ground wires back in the engine bay. I will inspect the ground situation a bit closer. During the wiring phase, I tried to be vigilant in keeping sensor grounds separate from chassis grounds, but perhaps I missed something. Not sure about the TPS though. I have a lot of old logs, will go through them and see if this is a new issue or something recent. The car is an air-cooled flat-six, so the ECT signal is coming from the single-wire temp sensor that is bathed in motor oil. Thanks again!!

Looks like a LOT of TPS noise as well, is that typical or do I need to go back and verify ground signal is DEFINITELY an ECU sensor ground? 6 cylinder, ITB's, COP. No IAC, should be a pretty straightforward deployment.

Took a drive around the neighborhood last night, freshened up the plugs as the car has been running rich. At the beginning of the drive the car ran smoothly, still rich. Takes a looong time for the Lambda sensor to give up the data!?!? After the car warms up, there are a few lean backfires, within minutes after ( the last ~10 minutes of log ) the car will barely run. Will sustain idle, any throttle input now makes the car nearly stall. Was making minor adjustments to table, something else has happened! Pre-Crank, Post Start, warm up are enabled and timed/aged out due to engine temp, accell enrichment is off, CLLambda Off. Just trying to get the car to run well on it's own. Does any keen eye see something obvious around the last 10 minutes? Log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YmYnPSjO0V46CeyZEdQXhZIkHcM6U7BW/view?usp=sharing Tune file attached. Thanks!! ColdStart_forShortDrive_x2.pclx