Jump to content

Ricco

Members
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ricco

  1. Awesome! Thanks again. I'll need to check if I have a Fuel temp sensor, but using AN Temp 3 might be a good idea. Thanks for the tip. Thanks, Richard.
  2. Thanks for the reply, Adam. What you're referring to is pin 5 on the maf connector which is the common ground that’s already been re-used for the IAT sensor. The ones that are left are pins 1,2 & 3 on the maf connector. 1 is 12v (orange I think) 2 is maf sensor ground (black and green wire) - Goes to pin c31 at the ECU 3 is the shielded maf signal wire (pink and blue) - Goes to pin c23 at the ECU I want to use 2 and 3 for the ctps signals and generic 5v/sensor ground, to power the sensor. I just need to confirm that will work if I use a generic sensor ground, and repurpose the dedicated maf sensor ground. Thanks, Richard.
  3. I have a Link G4x plugin for Impreza STI (WRXLink V10). I am no longer using the MAF and have already rewired the IAT from the stock MAF location to an aftermarket IAT sensor. This leaves 3 wires from the MAF connector, +12v, MAF signal (Shielded) and MAF ground. I'm trying to wire in a Link Combined Pressure and Temp Sensor using the leftover MAF wires. The new sensor needs 5v vs the 12 volt that was being supplied to the MAF, so I was planning on grabbing Sensor power and ground from the MAP sensor wiring, and using the 2 remaining MAF wires for the 2 required signal wires on the CPTS. The question is, will the MAF signal wire work for Oil pressure if I'm no longer using the dedicated MAF ground wire for that sensors ground? I want to repurpose the MAF ground wire and connect it to an expansion loom for the Oil Temp side of the sensor. In summary I want to wire the CTPS as follows https://linkecu.com/documentation/WRX10X.pdf?_gl=1*10ymesd*_ga*MjAxMDY2MTEyNS4xNjk4ODA0NDUz*_ga_YGEEXMZ8NR*MTcwMDE2OTg1MC43LjEuMTcwMDE2OTk0Ny4zMi4wLjA. 5v - pin C16 Sensor ground - pin C35 Pressure Signal - pin C23 Temp Signal - pin C31 - Depinned from the ECU and redirected to an expansion loom Hopefully that makes sense.
  4. Just to close this out for now.. I re-gapped my spark plugs from 0.032 to 0.030 and the Ignition cut issue is 95% or more, gone. I suspect the spark was getting blown out by a number of contributing factors 90's Spark distribution Rich fuel mixture in the Link Basemap Spark plug gap too big I don't have any more time to play with it for a while as I'm in the process of buying a new house.
  5. So I managed to get the logs downloaded from the ECU.. Even with the engine off, it took several attempts to get it to start working as it should.. Yeah, my bad.. I do have a MAC 3 port installed too, that's why I'm trying to play with and understand boost control. Anyway, here is some high res data from a pull - I see that there are small map spikes that are hitting the ignition cut ceiling, just like Adam surmised - it seems to be happening so fast that I find it hard to believe it's a real boost spike, and more likely to be a small back fire, as Adam suggested. I'm planning on pulling the plugs and gapping them to 0.30 (currently set at 0.32) to see if that helps but I'm probably clutching at straws and need to get a wideband setup so I can tune fuel and ignition tables (I'm guessing). Here is the link to the log file. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H_1Aoiz024AxO0fKGy-KW-ern7SF0nWL/view?usp=share_link
  6. I don't remember if I had the engine running or not when I was trying to download. Surely it shouldn't make any difference? Anyway, I'll try it again tonight with the engine off. It's a mostly stock Gen2. It has AFM delete with cone filter, IAT in the CSI location and an aftermarket carback. Stock turbo, WG and downpipe for now.
  7. I tried ECU logging last night but when I try to download the log file 2-3MB, i only get a ~35KB file downloaded.. The file will open in PCLink but it only has about 0.5s of data in it.. Going to try and figure out what I'm doing wrong later. OK understood. I foolishly thought that setting the Mode to Stage2 meant that there was no stage 3 any more. At least that explains it, thanks.
  8. Thanks for the reply Adam. I've already taken a look at the MAP lockout and Warm up enrichment - Your recommendations make sense, thank you. I'll configure some ECU logging as you suggest and hopefully I'll be able to give it a try tonight. WRT to the WG trims, what I'm seeing would need to have a negative trim value since I'm seeing higher WG DC than I think I am commanding. Take a look in the big log file at around 2:24-25 to see what I mean (just one example).. I'm sure I'm just misunderstanding something but I see Base WGDC commanded at 20% but I'm seeing an actual WGDC at 40% - I assume its related to trying to hit the 180kpa boost target but idk what is causing it to operate that way. I don't see any ECT or IAT trim in effect and the PID's are all zero. Incidentally, if you look at the 29-30 second mark in the same big log file, you will see the WGDC follow precisely the Boost Base DC which is what I'd expect to see every time. I don't think I changed any parameters in the configuration between these pulls as I was driving.
  9. Hi, I've been playing with and trying to learn/understand Boost control but I'm getting some odd results, or at least ones that I cannot logically figure out. I tried to follow the "Closed Loop Boost Setup Guide" in the help file but I just wasn't able to derive the expected results. Here is my list of questions I've come up with. Why can't I ever seem to hit 180kpa? Whenever I adjust the WGDC values to provide more boost, I just seem to hit ignition cut but never boosts more than 170-175ish. Why is the WGDC sometimes different to the 'Boost Base DC' even with the PID's zero'd? I thought with PID's zero'd, WGDC would always just use the WGDC Table, once it hits stage 2 boost control (assuming trim tables are not coming in to play)? I'm getting random Boost spikes. I've seen it jump over 100kpa in 1/1000th of a second which seems implausible.. Could this be a symptom of an old/failing/bad stock Map sensor? I understand that Ignition cut is kicking in because of the boost spikes but I'm also sometimes seeing Ignition cut without a boost spike.. I even see Ignition cut, cutting in at ~170-175kpa with a boost target of 180. My MAP limit is 205 and Control range is 15 so Ignition cut shouldn't even come in to the equation until 190kpa? Or am I misunderstanding this somehow? When I use a Boost target that is zero'd out in the WGDC table, I see only spring pressure and everything happens like I'd expect.. The car is just slow I have a bunch of log files from my evening of playing around with the settings but I've tried to limit the uploads.. I think you should see examples of everything I'm questioning in the attached and linked log files.. I also attached my Map file, although I was making some adjustments to it as I went along - Mostly just to Target boost and WGDC Table with PID's zero'd - per the setup guide but I think I have PID's set per the Help file in this map as I just set it there towards the end of my runs. Car is SW20 MR2 with stock Gen2 3SGTE with AFM removed and IAT sensor in place of the CSI. MAC 3 port boost solenoid. Aftermarket Catback. Thanks. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HXx1EncOBJaSu5iTZduGHXzO0shUDQVN/view?usp=sharing mr2 Boost Control 1-27-23.pclx PC Datalog IgnCut n Bspike ex- 2023-02-15 8;23;24 pm.llgx
  10. Thanks Adam, those settings and values have worked wonders for my off idle acceleration. It's going to take me more time to learn wrt the boost issue and what values to use for WG duty cycle but I appreciate the insight. One last question - I was wondering if the Link ECU was even working with the stock Boost controller (TVSV) or if I was required to use a Mac 3 port EBCS.. I have a MAC EBCS, just haven't installed it yet. I don't think the TVSV works like a normal boost controller so maybe it just isn't working with this ECU which is why I'm only seeing Wastegate spring pressure for boost.
  11. Ricco

    3s-GTE Base timing

    OK I finally understand.. Sorry for being a bit slow. I did double check my timing as I said I would and here is what I found. When I command 10 degrees advance, I need an offset of -5 to get it to read 10 at the pulley. When I command 0 advance, I need an offset of -8 to get it to read 0 at the pulley. Not sure if that is a big deal or not but I left it at 10 and -5, thats where it seemed to idle the best.
  12. Ricco

    3s-GTE Base timing

    When it’s locked at 10 with 0 offset, it reads 15 on the pulley.. It only shows 10 on the pulley if I adjust the offset to -5. With it locked at 0 and 0 offset, it reads 5 on the pulley and I need to change the offset to +5 to get it to show 10 on the pulley. I’m using a distributor for ignition and my timing light is basic, no advance on the timing light. Does that make sense? I’ll double check this again tonight.
  13. I have my link ECU installed and the car seems to idle and run great now I'm over some initial hurdles. The only issue that I have is that the engine bogs down from idle whenever the throttle pedal is pressed (once the rpms are above idle, it doesn't seem to be an issue).. I've tried pressing it fast and slow but it has the same affect.. The engine will dip from ~900rpm to ~700rpm before it recovers and accelerates. I've adjusted the Accel Enrichment deadband all the way down to 0.1ms and that seems to help a little when I press the throttle slowly but I can tell the underlying issue is still there and the revs still dip when I press the throttle fast. The other question is just to help my understanding. I can see that the Boost target is set to 200kpa but when I'm driving, I only see 150kpa maximum pressure. I didn't see any boost target trim in effect so I'm not sure what the reason is here. Any ideas? I've exceeded some kind of forum limit for attachments so I'm adding the Log file here from my Google Drive. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_DA13vc8DkT0mbgqheavbuZEzzigBDcU/view?usp=sharing Mr2-First start 1-24-23.pclx
  14. Ricco

    3s-GTE Base timing

    Thanks for your help Adam. On your advice, I adjusted the Master Fuel value from 9 to 10 and then to 11. The idle went from hunting like an old big block with a massive blower, to perfectly smooth like a Toyota .. I did not have to change anything in the ISC tables. (I've attached a log file for reference) Back onto the thread topic, I checked the timing again with the engine running. I was able to confirm that the light flashed at 10 degrees with my current settings (locked at 10 and adjusted offset -5) but I also found I was able to achieve the same result by locking the timing at 0 and using +5 offset. My question is, which one is the right configuration and why? Also, I played with the adjust delay setting while revving the engine.. I found at 0 'delay adjust' that the timing light flashed at about 9 degrees (vs 10 it was at idle) but it stayed solid at 10 degrees with the adjust delay at 80ms (the value from the basemap) - Does that seem about right? Once I was happy with the timing and the idle, I was able to successfully drive the car - I'm so happy with that result! I do have some other questions now though, but I will start another thread. Adjust Fuel Main to 10 then 11 - 2023-01-25 6;04;41 pm.llgx
  15. Ricco

    3s-GTE Base timing

    Thanks. I just had another attempt and I think it might be correct now - I've just been trying to follow the setup procedure from the manual. This time I set the base timing to 10 degrees and had to change the offset to -5 to get the crank pulley lined up with the 10 degree mark - Does that sound OK? This time when I started the engine, it ran for longer before it died on its own, it almost stalled out at one point but then it recovered before stalling out shortly after. According to the manual, I should now adjust the master fuel value to get it to idle better now? I've attached a couple more log files from what I've just done. Engine 2nd start - 2023-01-24 10;35;27 pm.llgx Set Base timing 2nd attempt - 2023-01-24 10;32;27 pm.llgx
  16. Ricco

    3s-GTE Base timing

    I'm trying to understand and set base timing on my 3s-gte MR2. I'm a complete noob when it comes to ECU tuning and ignition timing so I'm trying to learn as I go. I got some help with sensor configuration and calibration on the Facebook group but switched here so I could upload my log files and map file. Anyway, I tried to check base timing following this video here but I'm not convinced that I did it right. I understand that it's important to view the timing mark from the correct angle, which I believe is through the intercooler pipes on my MR2 - I first viewed the mark from the left of the intercooler pipes but it just made it look like it was at around 20 degrees advanced. The attached logfile "Set Base Timing" was my first attempt.. I think I made the mistake of closing the dialogue box and saving the setting to the ecu as it didnt seem to change anything and I think I was looking from the wrong angle anyway. On my second attempt, I set the "Lock Ignition Timing to" 15 (which is how it was in the basemap file) and progressively changed the "Adjust Offset" parameter until the timing line on the crank pulley was at the 10degree marker, remembering to keep the "Set Base timing" dialogue box open. When I viewed from between the intercooler pipes, I seemed to be able to get the timing mark to 10 degrees by using "-15" in the "Adjust Offset" field. I understand that 10degrees base timing is called for, on these engines and I managed to get the timing mark lined up there but I still don't feel like it is right somehow. Any help to better my understanding here would be appreciated. Engine first start - 2023-01-24 9;13;57 pm.llgx Set Base timing 1st attempt - 2023-01-24 8;37;47 pm.llgx Mr2-First start 1-24-23.pclx
×
×
  • Create New...