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I started the car today, and i tried syncing trigger 2 to cam x1 thinking maybe it would eliminate trigger errors and the ecu would have more information. but when i tried to rev the engine it seemed choppy and rough. I went back to only trigger one and let the engine warm up. I wanted to verify that it wasn't experiencing the "on/off" idle at higher ETC which it didn't. Only thing it did was drop the rpm to about 900 or so but didn't experience any of the rough idle or back and forth. may be on the right track to smoothing the rest of it out. I added the "cressida 2023" file to the Drive with the 5 BTDC minimum clapm, trigger 1 adjustments.

yes. i have it at 5 BTDC with the new log and captures

i added 2 trigger scopes "triggerscopelvl4. triggerscope loglvl4" and a log "Trigger lvl4" I changed the Trigger 1 threshold on the 500 and 1000 rpm, and changed trigger filter from the original 1, to level 4. my trigger 2 is not synced, didn't want to change anything on that, and wanted to see if i could smooth things out with trigger 1. had low rpm, but smoother. didn't have the switching between low rough idle back to normal smooth idle. A couple of times when it was low enough, engine shut off. It was a bit more difficult to capture a high 3v spike on the trigger scope, but there was still a couple of instances where there were some spikes at the 900 ish RPM. It seems like it's closer to smooth running, but trying to figure out this trigger error. factory replacement 2jz spark plugs, gapped at 1.0mm. and they were just installed. cap and rotors are fine.

yes, i noticed those so i tried taking a bunch of captures to see if there are any higher ones. i'll try changing the numbers and post a log.

I had not done this check before. (pics and trigger scopes loaded on Gdrive) trigger scope 3-18 I added 4 pics of the process you mentioned. I marked the rotor with 3 lines, the front, center, and rear face of the rotor. I made a line on the #1 cap pin. When i put the cap on the distributor it lined up with the front section of the rotor. so at 5 degrees the rotor was just arriving at cylinder 1 position. I added a bunch of trigger scopes as well. i captured some when the engine would dip to low rough idle, and when it would go back to normal idle. holding the rpm at around 2k constantly didn't cause the engine to switch from low rpm to normal rpm. I also captured some trigger scopes from that.

Good day, So i changed the Map lockout as per your advice. I did a longer log from 17c ECT to 82c. as it got warmer the rpm dropped and towards the end around 80c or so it did the rpm drop and raise. I did not drive it, and will have to do some touch up on the starting since it took a couple of restarts to get a clear start.

I put another idle log on the Drive, along with 2 trigger scopes, and 2 pics, of the linkage and tps. The tps had some play before, so i shimmed it, and sealed it which made it better. But the tps itself maybe shit. the DBW linkage connects to a rod which controls the 3 itbs. there isn't much room otherwise i would have loved a more direct set up with less links. Also on the v2idle5 it seemed to be smooth and good, after i stopped the log and the ECT started going up, the rpm dropped and then it started acting up where it drops really low and runs rough then goes back to normal then drops and runs rough again. I didn't make any changes to anything on this log. but i did notice more changes with higher ECT numbers. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1t0yfUvadzy-M4ZhJhVBEIWoA5U25ihv1?usp=sharing

in case the logs do show up. I'm just going to enter some data from what the car did and what i felt. after the V2 upload, tps calibration. the car started fine, didn't get the high idle anymore, it would start high but then level out. most of the times when it shut off and had to be restarted was by the car itself. I did not physically shut off the engine. at very low rpm idle, when i tried to push the pedal the rpm and engine would be rough, but then it would catch itself and idle correct and i could raise the rpm. I think it's idle 4 log, the car was idling low rpm and i could feel like a kick something from the engine bay like something was switching on and off. the rpm would be low, and i would feel and hear this change and the rpm would smooth out, then it would drop, and again after the kick it would smooth out. almost like one injector shuts off, and kicks back in, or spark plug. I think as it was happening i started the log4. I tried driving it a little (even in first gear going 10 feet) i can tell if it's going to be smooth or bad. It idles fine, but as soon as there's load on the engine trying to move it will be choppy which shows in the previous logs. again it's weird, like mentioned before it seemed like a switch, something on the engine changes and it effects how it runs, and it's a noticeable change.

ahhh yes that makes sense, thank you. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1t0yfUvadzy-M4ZhJhVBEIWoA5U25ihv1?usp=sharing Let me know if this works please?

For some reason my log files are too large to upload on here. what's the best way to compress them? even though they are smaller than the first set of logs I posted on here. However the calibration did work this time, and i made 5 logs of different start ups and idling. and a short distant drive.

thank you for the info. Do you mean to leave the ethrotle at 0, but add an IAC valve? or set up IAC in the program? sorry trying to make sure if i'm understanding it right. I double checked the balance between the throttles using a synchrometer on each velocity stack. they were all reading 7kg on all 6. Note: I feel like this random high idle and rough driving came after i installed and set up the DBW, This issue wasn't there before when it was cable driven. I thought maybe there is an issue with tps calibration, so i set ethrottle on set up again, and hit calibrate, and it went through the sweep and finalizing calibration. I also did it again through the ECU Control drop down to TPS calibration and it did the same thing. but i was still having the issue after setting the ethrottle targets 0 cells to 0% but ended up with the same issue. I tried doing a TPS calibration again, but right as it started it came up with "Error 5: No TPS (Main) Movement" even though pressing the pedal down and dbw opening i can see the main tps reading. I'm wondering if this is causing the issue? I'm sorry, been chasing this for a bit i'm trying to give as much detail as i can to help, and this popped up in my head thinking it may be an issue that can randomly pop up. Thinking the TPS on the end of the first set of throttle was causing this issue, i unplugged it to see if the problem goes away, and it didn't change. Thanks again.

I don't have any type of IAC on the engine. Now with the DBW i figured i could use that as an IAC like newer cars, that's why i had the first two cells at 20%. I'll try leaning out a bit also. i've noticed that it has been a bit too rich. Thank you I've checked all throttle plates to make sure they are synced and all the arms are fastened tight on the throttles and dbw. Nothing is loose. However the way it acts right now seems like one set of itb's open up a lot more than the other ones every once in a while, enough to raise the RPM, but keep the TPS numbers as they are. Kind of hard to figure out which since it's not a constant problem. I did a couple of logs. one log is a rough low rpm that smooths out, next one is a normal idle, and the car drives great. next one is high rpm and not drivable. I uploaded Adam's map (thank you) and logged it. it started at a bit lower rpm and sounded smooth, but when in gear and driving it was rough similar to before. It seems mechanical since i can't think of anything on the ecu that can come up randomly. which i may have to investigate further. If on the smooth/normal idling if you guys see anything off please let me know such as if you see any issues with trigger set ups, or fueling. there's still some more tuning left, it was just stopped because this high rpm rough driving came up during the session. roughtosmooth.llgx normal.llgx highrough.llgx tweek.llgx

Hey guys, been chasing this issue with my cressida for a while. i'll try to make it short. 2jzge, ITB, DBW, R35 injectors set at 50psi, factory distributor, NGK 1.1mm spark plugs before the DBW set up i was never able to get a clean start and run. Always had to shut off, and restart. Sounded and felt like it would start rough as if running on 5 cyliders. now after the DBW set up i still get this issue, and sometimes if the engine is not shut off the roughness randomly clears up and a restart is not necessary. Another issue that i just experienced today on a start up today is that the rpm goes to 2000 rpm, and when driving the it drives rough. however when i shut the engine off and start the car again something seems to reset, and it goes back to running smooth and at 1100 rpm. Odd thing is when it's running at 2000rpm the tps still shows 2.1 as it does when it's running at 1100rpm. while it was running at 2k rpm i managed to log it and drove it a bit to see if anything shows up. anyone still running factory distributor on their 2jzge with no issues? let me know if you see any issues in the tune or log. maybe i should take a video and upload it. Thank you 5222023.pclx PC Datalog - 2023-05-22 7;59;16 pm.llgx

I have both of these tools, the only problem is that when the throttle keeps backfiring it makes it difficult to make accurate adjustments. but i will give it a go and see what i can do and keep you posted. Thank you Adam for the info.

here's the low down and what was done to the engine set up, Set up: 2jzge none vvti, stock internals efi hardware intake/itb set up with r35 gtr fuel injectors. The car was running fine before with a modified throttle cable minus issues starting most times. Intake was removed to adapt the new EFI hardware dbw actuator which i posted before and got figured out. Nothing was touched on ignition set up, or wires or distributor. During the time the intake was off i found out that the bore of the itb was larger than the intake manifold, causing a lip to disturb air flow, so i match ported that to the intake. Installed everything as it was, installed new spark plugs, changed oil,finally got the dbw set up to work properly. The issue: When the engine first fired up i let it idle as i was messing with the dbw angle, and noticed my afr being in the 10's. I started hearing popping sound from under the hood, and noticed i could see flashes behind the number 5/6 itb butterflies. I checked the wires to make sure everything was connected right, i removed cylinder 5/6 spark plugs to double check them, and installed them back on the car. the next day i tried to start the car again and i wasn't getting any popping from cylinders 5/6, however i starting getting intake popping from cylinders 1/2. again nothing with timing was touched mechanically or through ecu. trying to pinpoint what may have changed, i thought maybe it's getting more air now, so the original fuel map was too lean, but not sure why the afr still read in the 10's. there's another problem with start up but this is from before any of the new added parts, but it's still around. sometimes i have to start the car multiple times because the first start up the car will run rough like there was too much fuel and plugs fouled out, so i will have to shut off the engine, and try again until i get a clean start. PC Datalog - 2023-03-28 9;07;34 am.llgx PC Datalog - 2023-03-28 8;49;07 am.llgx PC Datalog - 2023-03-13 10;27;49 am.llgx