JMP

No chance, closest you could get is if there's a WinCE OBD2 app out there you could hack into the headunit's OS, then configure the G4+ to output OBD2 and devise a way to get the ECU output into the headunit.
An easier way would be one of the many double din Andriod headunits, as then you could run Torque on it and with a Bluetooth dongle on the headunit and a Bluetooth OBD2 transceiver, get it all talking
 

IMO, any "Tuner" worth their salt can tune a Link, sure it's not as easy as the canned stuff but it's not different to the rest of the major players in the standalone world

I'm in Australia and the AEM platform is almost non-existent here as we have so many other options that are well proven.  Download the PCLink software and have a look for yourself, I find it very user friendly.  One tip would be to learn the keyboard shortcuts for tuning as that makes things a lot faster.  I don't use the autotune stuff for AFR, it's easier to manually make adjustments to the map.  I use the mixture map function to assist with a bit of fine tuning after initially roughing in the fuel map.
The cost of a map sensor doesn't come into the equation when I'm making a choice on an ECU for a new build, MAP sensors are cheap and represent a negligible percentage of the overall cost when implementing a standalone ECU on a custom turbo build.

An early IO table from the ZZE122R Corolla turbo I did is attached for your reference and this is an example map you can view with the older Vipec VTS software: JYU 1ZZ 12032016.pcl

Well, I'd like to start off by saying sorry for being such a duma$$...
Next, I'd like to thank those that worked with me finding things to try and get my car to run...
It runs now... Apparently you can't FULLY trust an FSM, even straight from the manufacturer. I followed the directions for installing the cam sprockets, but the RevUp information is very limited... The images specifically tell you to install the exhaust cam gear 180 off. lol. So I did. After taking it all apart, I realized my error. Got it corrected, reassembled it all, then forgot one stupid hidden ground wire so I had no spark again. Fixed that, now she runs super smooth... Can't wait to get the burn in done and get on the road!

Storm would run it, the monsoon gets a bit short on outputs

DI1 should probably be Inlet LH, you have DI1 and 2 both set to Inlet RH

Why not link to the original discussion?  https://www.facebook.com/groups/737420992943719/permalink/1530326236986520/
I'm fairly sure there's more to Link's modelled fuel equation than what Andy is talking about for his adap stuff.  When you setup a "VE" fuel table with adaptronic it doesn't take into account the fuel type or fuel pressure for instance.  Link/Vipec and Adaptronic are the main platforms I work on.

sorry for delay, had to sort out a few things and fix some bugs, but all working well with my new sensors
need to finish the documenation (ive done about 1/3 so far)
 
 

Hi All, I have my car back at home now, out of storage so I'll try and finish this project and document the whole build 

I think it would work, you might want to swap to one of the solenoid style ISCV's for the 1J that are available now so you save an additional 3x Aux outputs.  eg: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Syltech-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-IAC-1JZ-GTE-for-Haltech-Microtech-Link-Standalone-/201726865037?hash=item2ef7dbae8d:g:4pUAAOSwuzRXcijZ

some tablets you can use an "On The Go" adapter cable to charge and have data through the single mini or micro USB

if you had v7-9 trigger wheels on the engine it would have run fine...  not sure why you're still whinging that the v7-9 plugin doesn't work when it obviously does if you have things mechanically right in the first place.
Your own scope show it was running a mix-match of v1-6 cam wheels and a v7-9 crank wheel.  Even an old wire-in v88 wouldn't have worked with that setup when you select the v7-9 trigger mode which expects you to actually be running v7-9 triggers

Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one

You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/
As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread. 

my G4+ v7-10 plugin works perfectly on stock reluctor triggers and unmodified trigger wheels, have had it in my daily driver how since the G4+ range was released, replacing the previous vipec v7-9 plugin which also worked perfectly. I've even managed to make the old vipec wrx plugin work on a 1zzfe corolla which uses a 36-2 reluctor trigger on the crank.  In my experience across a wide range of motors, Link ECU's work exceptionally well with reluctor triggers.
My trigger settings are almost identical to the set listed in the help file, just with a trigger offset of -2

the 20V doesn't use VVTi, just a simple on/off VVT.
Wire the VVT solenoid pin 2 to one of your Aux outputs, then ignition switched 12V to pins 1.
In the Aux setup, choose the function of "CAM-Switched" and then setup whatever conditions you want the VVT to be switched on and then off again. An example is attached.
The help file has engine specific setup information that covers the 20V, screenshot of that is also attached.

current binaries wont work on windows 10 mobile. pclink would need to be developed as a Universal Windows Platform app.
The x3 looks to be a very nice unit and is just the start of the new generation of continuum enabled devices

to test if the idle ignition is having an impact, I'd turn off ignition idle control.  If it still plays up, I'd then set it to open-loop idle and tune the base position table.  Once the base position table is right I'd then enable closed loop, make any fine adjustments as required, then enable ignition idle control for that last level of refinement.

The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept.  The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug.  PCB pin THWO.  You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret
The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup
You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch

The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept.  The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug.  PCB pin THWO.  You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret
The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup
You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch

I'd buy some new 040 crimp terminals and mod the 1J loom to fit into the Altezza plugs for the ECU side of things with the plugin, instead of hacking off the loom and making joins midway

what outputs does the water/meth system need?
On the plugin, all the Auxillary outputs are accounted for but you could repurpose Aux Inj 7 which is usually the narrowband heater control and use it for the thermofan relay trigger. 
If the AEM needs an output from the ECU then you could potentially repurpose Aux 10 which is originally for the purge valve.
The Dash and Toucan should both be able to run off the CAN bus.  The stock knock sensors, water temp sensor, Crank/Cam triggers all work fine.  The stock oil pressure switch is a bit useless, better off replacing it with a 150psi TI pressure sensor which can be wired to and of the spare AN Volt inputs to get a reading on the ECU.  I'd also replace the stock Toyota air temp sensor in the plenum with a faster acting sensor mounted in the cooler pipe just before the throttle body.
The AEM wideband's analogue output can be wired to AN Volt 3 or 4, both of which are designated to run the stock narrowbands in the plugin so you just reconfigure the input to the appropriate CAL.
I'd personally go with a Fury ECU as I like the idea of a built-in wideband controller and making a new loom from scratch is easy for me.  Toyota does a good job with their looms so it may be easier/better for you to go with the plugin.

The Throttle position sensor has 4 wires, 5V (VC), VTA, VTA2 and sensor ground (E2), the pedal position sensor also has 4 wires with the same 5V and ground along with VPA and VPA2.
Wire VTA to AN Volt 6 and set to TPS Main
Wire VTA2 to AN Volt 5 and set to TPS Sub
Wire VPA to AN Volt 3 and set to FPS Main
Wire VPA2 to AN Volt 2 and set to FPS Sub.
This is also detailed fairly well in the help files