Simon

You will have to fabricate something to suit. That pattern is not supported. I would look to removing that wheel and pressing on a 24 tooth wheel with a tooth removed.

That pattern is not supported and you would have to modify it to just 4 teeth at tdc points. You are limited to group fuel and distributor.

I would advise avoiding any power supply that has inductive loads on it like coils and injectors as this can cause issues for the can lambda they need a noise free supply.

Check that you have Jumper J1 fitted on the board this puts a pullup on for the tacho. Note the ECU is not driving the tacho this is from the igniter module. So the Sweep function will have no impact.

Ducie might be on to something there a big restriction in the exhaust would give similar symptoms

What happens if you put the Aux to test on so the solenoid is at 100%, This should give you as much boost as the turbo will make assuming all is plumbed correctly and the solenoid turns on. (be ready to pull out of the run as boost is effectively uncontrolled) If you don't get the boost then it points to plumbing or faulty solenoid.

96+ is all set to go it is expecting the knock signal on pin D6.

Flick us a email at [email protected] and we can help from there

Head on over to https://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/

Most can have extras added, Time wise typical would be 2-3days but this can stretch if we are particularly busy. We just charge by the hour.

Yep just open a map up and then adjust to suit.

There is a dedicated knock input on ECUs that support it. What G4+ ECU are you working with?

Assuming the ECU you have supports knock then it is just a case of wiring it to the ECU.

On the I series the internal knock circuit is a match for the old V series type amplifier so there is no gain in using it. It would however be a good option for a tuning tool and using headphones. We don't have any looms left so you would need to fabricate one from scratch. The shield should be grounded at one end only, typically the ECU end on the shield ground pin. The Link knock block is just a modem version that was simplified to be a pure tuning tool so there is no ECU interface.

It is possible but the ECU needs a wire added to allow this. To retain the warranty we would need to do this modification.

I assume you have the VL plugin? On one of the XS connectors you have all 6 ignition channels available. You can then wire your coils as you would for a wire in unit. Ign 1 to cylinder 1 coil signal 2-2 3-3 etc.

No not without additional hardware changes to the ECU.

Wire to correct pin and then configure. There are a couple of additional settings but the defaults are normally fine.

17 is an volt 3 at ground and 49 is AN temp 3 at 5V it will depend on what is assigned to these inputs.

Can you post a copy of your map so we can see how you have things set up.

Can you do a PC log with all parameters as would like to check on cuts, ecu hold or engine kill parameters

The cylinder count dividing in is not critical what is critical is how the tooth count divides into 360.

Yes 40-1 is suitable from our end but is not really a common choice. 36-1or2 or 60-2 are the most common multi tooth missing arrangements.

Its a G4+ so you will ned the latest PC link which is currently 5.6.6 http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.6.3601 Setup.exe

What coils have you converted to and do they have a built in igniter?