Simon

Make sure all the terminals are fully pushed in if one or more is backed out a bit the locking tag will not go down

Head on aver to https://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/ Technically the units are not serviceable as they are potted but we will give it a shot. Due to the potting the turnaround could be a couple of weeks.

Drive A or b could be set up to turn it on. You could then set a %FF that it operates above or an RPM point.

Wiring will follow the LEM V3 manual. If its going to be a fresh install you will need a tuning module to do anything with it as its not PC tunable. It is also wasted spark only not suitable for a distributor application.

On the wire in units that have AUX5-8 it would high side drive on those outputs fine. On a plugin the board it has been designed to be lowside driving on all 4 outputs as this is what is required for the factory functions on those pins. The main PCB actually doesn't have the hardware to allow highside driving. On cases such as the Honda plugin additional hardware is added to the sub-board to allow the high side driving of the VTEC solenoid. The Known issues section is for where there is a issue on a stock / factory application.

We have a pinout for the EVO 10 throttle in the PC link help file Navigation: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Mitsubishi EVO X We don't have anything on the pedal.

Are you looking to run E30, E50, E85, 100% ethanol? For petrol that would give you enough for roughly 390hp on E85 it would be enough for 280hp

All depends on the power you are looking to support and the number of cylinders. The ratio of ethanol will also have an impact

Crank senor will need to be wired as trigger 1, The cam wheel sensor to trigger 2, the two cam positions to a Di each

The boost control can be done via any free Aux channel, You might have one free on the main header or on the XS loom

It is up now

5.6.6 will be up on the web page today

You can leave the injection as is as the plugin is fine provided the factory ballast is retained. If you want to go to sequential fuel then you will need to look at changes. Anti lag is supported and there are many ways of implementing it. From a simple fixed throttle opening to a fully switchable option with dedicated air bypass.

Benefit would be if you were going to the VVT heads then moving to the later wheels would be a must. Timing accuracy would be improved a smidge but I don't think it would be noticeable. In either case no worries to retain the wasted spark setup.

Yes once upgraded you will use the same G4 tuning software. So you can retain your layouts. The Maps can then also be use you will just have to make sure the IO configuration matches.

Wiring in the sensor can be done easy enough to a free AN volt channel however there is no easy way to have this active automatically. At best a change over switch could be used.

The AC control all hinges on what the Di signal into the ECU is doing. When the request is active we will activate the AC clutch. When the request is removed we then disengage the clutch. On the RX7 the request signal tended to sit a bit high so we have a 10K pull down resistor and a diode in series to lower the voltage that the micro sees. Ideally you need to measure the voltage at the AC pin (79) and see what that is doing on the factory ECU and then compare to on ours.

Are you using the stock S5 igniter? If so this functions slightly differently to a conventional igniter and has a toggle pin that controls which coils will fire. It is not supported by us and the solution would be to change to a S6-8 setup or a standard 3 channel Bosch or equivalent igniter.

Assuming its an I Series unit you can treat it exactly the same as for a G4+ The V series will still work but set up will differ slightly

For the ECU side they are tested up to 70C, 80C will be pushing it for sure. Getting some shielding in there and some cold air flow would be ideal.

If you can see the USB in device manager but the PC link is not connecting try the firmware update process and see if it will detect. If you are running a dash or any other device off the CAN / serial port make sure these are unplugged. Make sure you are looking for the right com port also.

What's the voltage supply to the coils like are you seeing an excessive volt drop to the coils under crank so spark is reduced? Is fueling in the ball park, Not excessively lean or rich?

Make sure all filters are on level 1 / low and you might need to lower the arming voltages at higher RPMs.

Has to be windows to run PC link

The onboard logging and some of the additional features, But it depends if you want / need anything in terms of running the engine its much the same.