Simon

That one needs the CAM sync.

Assuming you are on the base map and wiring is stock neither of those will be an issue when it comes to starting. You will however have to change the trigger settings to suit the Kiggly 12 tooth crank trigger. The cam wheel for trig 2 will also need a tooth removed. Trigger Mode will need to be changed to Multi tooth. And settings for trig 1 set to the 12 tooth crank and trig 2 to CAM x1

To confirm if the issue is internal put a volt meter between an ECU ground pin and the 14V in back probing the header and check if meter matches ECU or not.

Keep it to under 500mA and you will be fine on the 5V out. Yes the ground is common.

Trig 2 falling to rising is worth a shot. I suspect its not going to be better but it is something you can try easy

You could try changing the edge on trig 2 but that trigger scope looks almost spot on to what is expected. (EZ30 differs in polarity but falling edge is in same spot)

The EZ motor needs the 12V the EJ sensors shown above are different to your application. You need 12V supply

One possibility is you are 360 out on the offset so you are firing on the exhaust stroke. The other is the fuel needs adjusting to get it to fire.

Being plugin start with the V7-9 map as this will have the I/O configured correctly. Then change the triggers to suit the later motor.

When PC link was installed did you put it in the default locations?

Link G4 Wiring and Installation Manual.pdf

Good work not an easy task adding a tooth.

It could well be hardware related. As the ECU temp rises it will expand and if there is a suspect joint its likely to cause issues. There is no firmware control around temp on the Ignition switch input

There might be others that have this down.But I know on some of the earlier BMW applications the BMW mini can stream worked for a lot of the dash data. (e46)

Temp 1 and 2 have selectable pullups 3 and 4 don't. But if your temp is reading correct you are good to go

The Id is user defined. The stream layout can be found in the PC linkhelp file. There are a few different options. Navigation: G4 ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information

Will be a slight increase in price. Trim correction is on the wishlist so not there currently but likely to happen.

Just need to have 5.6.7.3631firmware installed in the ECU. You can check current firmware but connecting to ECU and then going to the Help tab and then ECU info.

Aux 11, through to 16 are not connected to an external connector.

You will need a free temp or AN volt channel. On side of the sensor to sensor ground and the other to the input. If using a AN volt you will also need an external pullup to 5V on the singnal

So do you have a serial link currently? (they are still available) Not all G1 units were able to be PC tuned and it is dependent on the firmware. TO check this see if you can see a sticker on the main micro and put those details up and we can advise.

The Offset figure will depend on which cam tooth has been removed. But this can be found relatively quickly when doing the timing calibration. Also note that you will need to change the wiring for the Tacho to a available Aux output on the ECU as in stock format it is driven from the crank signal on our plugin.

It comes down to the coil as to what the needed dwell is going to be. I would assume that table is for stock coils. If the dwell is too short you loose spark energy. If it is too long you risk overheating the coils. I would try increased dwell time and see if it improves. While keeping an eye on the coil temps.

Unfortunately there is nothing existing for that. The other Rover patterns are 3 teeth missing at uneven spacing. Maybe adding a tooth back so it becomes 36-1?

Number of and type of I/O will be mostly unchanged. Most of the changes will be firmware based.