Ducie54

Hey guys
Just thought I'd share my setup on here.
 
precision 5557 turbo
ID1000s
custom intercooler setup
Hypertune manifold
P12 8H6 Stock VVL head
CP Pistons
Manley Rods
ACL bearings
ARP Hardware 
Vipec V44
 
 
Loaded my own basemap on it enough to run and drive it to get to the dyno. (The "What's this" button works wonders!!!)
 
Made decent power
454hp/330tq
 
I'm looking to get launch control set-up for drifting so it builds boost while I'm clutched in and dragging the ebrake.

GLAD TO BE ON HERE!
 
Cheers!

Wildwestaussi1 think best is if you just leave this forum. A forum is there to help out each other. Only thing you are doing is blaming products and other tuners.
If you are incompetend to install and setup such a highend ECU, just don't touch anything and take the car to one of the  LINK ECU Tuners you can find on the website. 
And before you are calling everyone an idiot;
I'm a professional Tuner and worked with LINK ECU's on Subaru's for several years. I came never across such a problem you descripted. As you statet, there was alot going on with this engine/car before you have got your hands on. So go and search there for a fault, but don't blame a great ECU manufacturer! 

Scott's screenshot proves my theory. Quick to blame the product before doing basic checks. 

if you had v7-9 trigger wheels on the engine it would have run fine...  not sure why you're still whinging that the v7-9 plugin doesn't work when it obviously does if you have things mechanically right in the first place.
Your own scope show it was running a mix-match of v1-6 cam wheels and a v7-9 crank wheel.  Even an old wire-in v88 wouldn't have worked with that setup when you select the v7-9 trigger mode which expects you to actually be running v7-9 triggers

Was hope full this was in the latest release.

Hi Nigel, you're right that it is not included. I'll follow up with the engineers and see what the status on this is.
Scott.

Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one

You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/
As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread. 

Read his last post. 

Hi,
Yes this is fairly typical of what you would see. The battery voltage goes through some components in the ECU, so I expect some voltage drop.
Scott.

Hi Nigel,
When the PWM output is doing a PWM of anything greater than zero the Aux Output status will turn on. You could then set the idle control tables to 3D and set the aux output status to the additional axis. One trick with this is that a value of '2' is ON for the Aux Output status.

Scott

I would like closed loop for my water to air Inter cooler setup. ATM I have a PWM table setup with IAT and water cooling temp. 

5.6.2 - Thunder
First issue - Could the Aux channels please be named the same (Aux 16 vs A17)?
Second issue - Aux 11 to Aux 20 - Could you please add the ability to have Labels like the rest of the Aux channels?
 

Thanks Scott, saves me any more headaches working that out. Found out today the dead time data supplied by Motec is battery voltage and fuel pressure. I had it setup as differential fuel pressure. Minimum effective pulse width is also too low causing high valves in the fuel table.

This is a bug. Currently if you use ANV12 or higher for fuel pressure it does not work. We have an update coming shortly that will fix this issue and some others.
Scott. 

Thanks Scott. A anti theft option would be nice as it would free up a Digital input. 
That way the car could be speed limited if it was moving then not be able to start when turned off. 

Hi warmup, this is certainly a good idea, and is currently on our request list.

Hi Grant
We don't have any info on the 1.3 the only info I have is from the HR16DE which I think some of the Micra's had fitted.
We will need to know what the pattern is from the sensor to know if its able to be used.
 
A scope capture would be ideal as a starting point.

Hi all,
I just wanted to let everyone know I am still alive and slowly getting better after major surgery.
Hopefully another couple of weeks and I will be able to get back to one of my very favourite past times, helping out with tech support where ever I can.
I honestly miss this aspect of my life and has been a huge part of my life for so many years.
I miss all the fantastic crew at LINK and can't wait to get back to business as usual.
Take care everyone.
Talk soon,
Regards
Dave.

The way you are intending to wire the +5V and signal ground will work fine. Generally it is a good idea to distribute the sensors evenly between the +5V and signal ground pins. This means that if a problem occurs with one pin not all the sensors will fall over.
You will want one pull-up resistor per temp sensor when using An Volt channels.

Could you make it so the Cal tables can be labeled so we can list the sensor. Then under each Cal tab another label so we can list inputs that use that Cal table.
Hope that makes sense.
Cheers

Hi
Assemble a resistive divider in the power cord from the electric pump.
So that the voltage at the analog input is a maximum of 5V.
And only put two resistors in series to the ground and remove the middle control voltage of the two.
I'm sorry for my english.
Augusto.

Hi Ducie54,
I spoke to Ashley and he said the following,
Divide it down by 10, so you could monitor it so at 13.7 volts it would be measured as 1.37 volts.
Will request higher voltage 0 - 14 volt or so.
Regards
Dave.

Hi Ducie54,
That's because you got to many things going on that little beast of yours ha ha.
Noted for LINK techs.
Regards
Dave