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MRRPM

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Everything posted by MRRPM

  1. Moves slowly, it has a blown head gasket now, I can't test anything right now, for a fix. Not sure if it has always been there, but it has ran good, with this new trigger setup. I don't run this thing much, it's a dyno queen, I do mostly stock ecu stuff, on customers machines, I use this to try things. It's weird that the #1 cyl could be off, and #2 be spot on, seems if #1 is off, #2 would also be off. I guess timing is not calculated like I think it is. Maybe timing is actually retarding? Going all the way around to overlap? Maybe advancing until it flips to overlap? It's been a year since I've ran this, I'm prolly using outdated firmware too.
  2. Hate to resurrect an old thread, but this is tied in with this setup. I have this thing back on dyno, once again, odd fire V2, turbo, burning methanol, runs great until around 6000rpms, then lotsa popping, sounds like a rev limiter, put timing light on it, #2 cyl timing seems correct, where #1 starts to advance up to 45˚, where I have it locked at 30˚, in ecu. No trigger errors, when running, which is normal. It will make errors cranking, if it kicks back, but I've always considered that normal. What could cause ecu (or something) to advance timing? I could see sporadic timing, but not solid advancing. I'm running 2 triggered coils, one for each cyl, could a coil be bad?
  3. I'd say maybe, depending on fuel pressure. I'm assuming turbo? If your setup does not idle, I'd back it down to say an 850 or 1000, as primary, and a 2000, as secondary, see what that does. I'm just going off memory of different setups I've messed with, not using any calculator or anything.
  4. UPDATE: I was having erratic spark, reversed VR sensor polarity, got rock solid timing, with no trigger errors. I adjusted the ignition offset, fired right up. Makes sense about the half moon cam wheel. It does, at times, take a rev or two to fire up, but this is all race, & that doesn't matter too much. I do get trigger errors as it's syncing up, if it winds over much. If it fires right up, I don't get errors. After it's running, there are no errors, as of now. I will be dynoing it tomorrow, see what it does. The 12-1T crank wheel seems to deliver as solid timing as my 36-2T did. I would have never thought that. Will update with any problems that come up, during dyno session.
  5. Here is my PCL file. I have a 12 tooth wheel, 1 missing, 1 tooth on the cam, now, as suggested by Simon. It is not a full half moon, like he said, but it's about 1/2 inch wide, and I am getting trigger signals, both crank & cam, according to the ecu. My spark is erratic, and not in the same place when winding it over with the starter, no plugs in. What am I missing? 1288 turbo.pcl
  6. I have a VR crank sensor, hall on cam. As far as crank trigger wheel, I can make whatever I need, as I have a couple Mitsubishi lasers here in house to cut whatever I need. This is why I am asking what is the perfect setup in this thread. I do have a scope, pc based, works pretty good. I am still not quite understanding how the cam sensor works to sync up. Does the ecu keep up with crank position via crank trigger teeth, then know if it's on compression by the trigger being tripped, on the cam? If so, why does Simon want the cam trigger wheel to be half way around? This would likely work good, but would be a real pain to get balanced, as the cam turns 5000rpms, and a piece of steel half way around would throw it out pretty good.
  7. Ok, I have my engine back together now. I just slapped the 36-2 crank setup on, and the stock cam trigger, just to get it running. I get a lot of trigger errors, and lotsa popping & banging, and, of course, the errors coincide with the popping & banging. All the errors occur at around 5-6000rpms. What I don't understand, is why it runs good, until rpms come up? Why would errors occur at speed? What exactly is a "trigger error"? What is happening that the ecu does not like? I have read & learned a lot about trigger setups over the years, still don't quite understand how they work, & what is an error. Tomorrow, I am gonna put a trigger setup on as Simon suggests, and I hope it runs with no errors. If it does, what have I learned? I would like to try & learn why the ecu likes some triggers better than others, & what are the do's & don'ts of trigger setups. I have read everywhere, and have yet to see anyone elaborate on triggers very much, like what works & what doesn't. Maybe the factory triggers work good because their signals on the factory ecu are handled in a different way? Maybe the Vi-Pec doesn't read the triggers the same way? Maybe there's a better setup on the Vi-Pec that I'm missing? I know the latest thing on factory ecu's is using crank acceleration, & deceleration to calculate where to put the spark. The factory setups are good enuf that they need no cam sensor, on some models, and are non wasted spark. I don't think very many aftermarket ecu's can do this, yet, if any can. I think there is a readout on the Vi-Pec that shows crank acceleration? Or am I misreading something? Is this a coming feature?
  8. Ok, thanks Simon. If I understand you correctly, I would mount a cam wheel that is basically a half moon shape, but the ends of this half moon shape would or could be anywhere, but not occurring when the crank sensor is reading the missing teeth gap. In other words, the cam sensor would need to be halfway in the moon shape, or 180° opposite that,, while missing teeth are going under the crank sensor. I will try this trigger setup sometime along, this is a new engine, having other issues at the moment, gotta pull the engine out now & fix a few things, then back in, with the new trigger setup.
  9. I have a 80 degree, odd-fire V2 engine, 4stroke, it has a 36-2 tooth wheel on the crankshaft (VR), and a one tooth cam sensor (HALL). I had it running on the stock triggers for years, ran great, but I had to change trigger wheels, for reasons not relating to the ecu. My question is, what would be the best trigger setup to fire this thing with? What would be everyone's dream setup, if they were gonna run this? I can make whatever trigger wheels I need, no problem. Should I go right back to stock triggers? I know this ecu can't do wasted in this setup at all, so we need the cam trigger. Right now, I have a 36 tooth wheel, none missing, and one tooth cam sensor, can get rpm signal, but timing is anywhere, when spun over with starter, consistent as long as cranking, but stop cranking, and spark is anywhere. I was gonna do a trigger like this, but it doesn't seem to work.
  10. Definitely uses acceleration, I know the factory coder, works great! Bosch is the mfgr of the factory ecu. If the ViPec could calculate timing by acceleration, it would solve lotsa ignition problems, like sync errors & such.
  11. How about any Can Am products? The newest factory ecu has only one crank sensor, no cam position sensor, and runs a 80° V-Twin, odd fire, four stroke, non wasted spark, and calculate timing by crank acceleration. Can any ViPec ecu's calculate timing this way?
  12. So still no way to run wasted spark, on an odd fire engine? (not counting dual ecu's) Seems like it would be easy, on say a V-twin, odd fire? Where one spark @ TDC, the other at whatever after, then do it again.
  13. Here are some timing wheels, 12 tooth, which tooth style should I use?
  14. Ok, I'm making a 36T full tooth count to try. If I get errors, I'll back the tooth count down & see what happens. I'll put a timing light on it to see if the ecu keeps timing consistent even with the odd fire nature of these motors.
  15. Ok, I was thinking just going with 36 teeth, no missing. Since this is a two cyl, odd fire, wouldn't more teeth give more resolution? Especially when it goes over TDC? Seems like at 6 teeth, the ecu would see a tooth, then the engine could decelerate on compression, then accelerate rapidly on the power stroke, causing timing errors? These engines run about like an air impact gun, hitting hard, then coasting until another hit.
  16. Group fire fuel is ok, as is wasted spark, but you're saying this ecu won't or can't do odd-fire wasted, correct? I have tried putting the ecu in wasted spark mode, 2cyl, custom tdc points, but it only puts out one spark signal, not two.
  17. Yes, on the multi tooth/missing being avoided, I have noticed that the missing teeth looks just like the engine going over TDC on a scope. The engine (ecu actually) can't tell the difference in TDC, and the missing teeth. I agree on lower tooth crank wheels, however, on lower count wheels, and single/two/odd fire cylinder engines, I don't think the ecu has enough resolution to find an accurate solution for spark on low tooth count wheels. This engine came with a 36-2wheel,VR sensor on the crank, and a hall/one tooth on the cam. I still don't see what the factory ecu is doing with that type of setup, maybe they are looking at the sensors differently than I have my ViPec set up to do? Simon, Can this ecu be set up to run on just the crank sensor alone? If so, wouldn't that eliminate trigger errors? It's an 80 degree, odd fire V2 engine, four stroke.
  18. Ok, I don't use CAN at all, so that's good. I do run coil per cyl., I use the LS1 type smart coils, with the built-in ignitor. The thing I'm wanting to do, is make trigger errors a thing of the past. The errors always seem to come up from time to time, and seemingly for no reason. I'm thinking that if I can make it run with only a crank trigger, then that will eliminate trigger errors? What do I need to do? I come from an american car, electronic ignition, background, which never have trigger errors, MSD style. They simply spark when told to do so. I need that kind of rock solid dependability in this ecu setup.
  19. I have one ecu that still works, except it doesn't get an rpm signal, with trigger errors, I'm gonna try a straight 36 tooth wheel, with my cam sensor, see how that works. Why are these ecu's not wasted spark capable, odd-fire? Seems pretty simple to just put out a spark every revolution of the crank, in a certain place, especially a one or two cylinder. I know there are very simple/inexpensive ecu's out there that can do it. I thought that these units would do the odd-fire when I got mine, but that has been a few years ago, was that feature taken out? Or am I mistaken? I was talking toa dealer yeaterday,he noticed that my units are low serial numbered units, could that be a problem? They are all under 5000, most in the mid fourthousands.
  20. I may send one or two of these units to let you check them out. On the triggers, seems like more crank teeth would be better? This being an odd fire engine, it doesn't turn very smoothly, it accelerates the crank when it fires, then decelerates when not firing. It has 36 now, with two missing, seems like more than 36 would work better? if the ecu can keep up?
  21. Far from first time, I've had these units for years, but I've only ran one of them. One started giving problems, so I unplugged one, then plugged in another one. Updated firmware on them all, but had that one get to where it won't connect, which was the one that would not have trigger errors. The other two, have nothing but trigger errors. This is a custom install, I can run whatever tooth count I want, and whatever sensor I need to make it work. What is the best sensor/tooth count that works best with these ecu's?I need a cam sensor, since it's an odd fire V2, 4 stroke. I would try wasted spark, but I read in another thread that none of these ecu's support odd fire/wasted.
  22. It'll only connect long enough to see the word online, not enough time to do anything at all. I may try another computer, see what happens.
  23. Yes, my crank has a VR sensor, which I'm referring to.
  24. Ok, thanks. I'm on vacation until Tuesday, I'll try it then, I've been talking to some friends, my VR sensor does not have an output like the one in the ViPec manual, rather, an almost perfect sine wave. Could this be a problem?
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