Adamw

All mechanical regulators have what is known as a pressure gradient or regulation slope. Pressure varies with flow and the pressure control is never perfectly 1:1 with the boost reference. The slope is typically around 0.25kPa/LPH but some are much worse than others. I think your last pic with the pressure dropping 60Kpa is more than just the regulation slope though, it looks more like a supply restriction or lack of pump.

Sorry Im not sure exactly what problem Im trying to fix as there are several issues discussed above. But the main issues I see in your G4+ map is the fuel and ignition table Y axis have TPS Delta on them instead of "TP (Main)" so these both need to be changed. TPS either appears like it may not be working or calibrated wrong? It was showing 100% when you saved that map. Confirm TPS does show 0-100% as you move the throttle. There are a couple of small differences in the injector setup - G4+ is using 310kPa, G4X is using 300kPa rated pressure, the deadtime is a bit different at 14V. The calibration table for the lambda controller is set up incorrectly, it is using pressure units. Typically the linear Cal 4/5/6 would be used for lambda.

Ah yes, sorry for the bad info. Im so used to not having that reallocation functionality in our older software and have never needed it so forget it is even there.

Yes you can use a Volt input with external pull-up. 1K to 5V would be my suggestion.

Im not sure if this is your only problem but it appears there is something wrong with your MAP sensor or its plumbing - it takes nearly 3 seconds after the engine stops to return to atmospheric pressure. Prior to that it looked like it was giving normalish response. Perhaps a kink in the hose or its full of oil or delaminating?

There is no temp 4 on that ecu. The manual is correct, temp 3 is available on both the header and expansion.

You have it set to log only above 2000RPM, so in your top pic the logging is starting and stopping constantly as the RPM is constantly bouncing above and below 2000RPM. It appears you changed that setting for the 2nd picture as it starts logging from about 1200RPM in that one.

Would need to see the log and the tune. Does injector PW vary when the lambda varies? Is fuel pressure stable? Perhaps over-run fuel cut or another trim is active...

It is not possible with that ECU, there is extra hardware attached to Ign 4 to control the main relay etc.

Yeah something very wrong here. TPS delta would usually be less than 1%/100ms with the engine running steady state. Your MAP delta doesnt look too out of the ordinary for an ITB engine, so I would say that is probably ok and wont cause you any tuning issues. A couple of thoughts for the TPS: Unplug the MAP sensor and unplug/completely disconnect the lambda controller (including its 12V & gnd) and run the engine like that with just the TPS connected. See if TPS noise improves with those two taken out of the equation. My thought here is possibly if the MAP was wired wrong you could have MAP noise superimposed on the TPS signal - or if it is some "fake" sensor it could be doing anything to the 5V or Gnd. I've had a fake denso coil sending 400V back into the ecu output every time there was a spark before so I wouldnt rule out anything... The reason for disconnecting the lambda controller is the Innovate lambda controllers are a complete POS - there is no isolation between the high current PWM heater control and the analog output so the ground connection can add noise to all analog sensors if grounded to a point that has a path back to sensor ground. Backlash in TPS coupling - Check the TPS is a tight fit on the "D" shaft, this is especially important if the TPS is one that doesnt have the internal spring to soak up the lash. If there is any doubt then put some RTV in the D before assembly and let it dry before running again. I have "fixed" a couple of Nissan sensors this way that had noise due to a loose fit on the shaft. Vibration in the cable/linkage system - Im not familiar with the RHD kit, although from what I have seen Rama does make some nice throttles. But assuming this is a 911 we are talking about then I imagine the linkage is a complicated contraption and I vaguely remember they have that horrible cable or rod down the the centre of the car that I think is pulling from a chassis mounted bracket instead of an engine mounted bracket like a more conventional cable system? So potentially some vibration could be introduced into the throttle shafts via the linkages or any movement between engine and chassis? Can you feel any vibration in the throttle shafts with the engine idling? I have fitted a "bolt-on" Jenvey kit on a 911 before and I had to cut up most of the linkage, shift arms around, extend levers etc just to get full and equal movement on both sides so I know the linkage can be a bit of a challenge on these. Alternator - disconnect the alternator and give it a short run, possibly AC from a bad diode or something could cause some noise in the electrical system somehow. The TPS itself - I have had trouble with noise from a generic-looking BMW sensor before - although it was a used sensor of unknown miles, and I have also seen large voltage drift with temperature and regular failures from the cheap looking vishay/colvern ones that many aftermarket throttles use. So I always use the contactless ones on ITB race engines now. I think in this case it is unlikely a sensor issue since you have tried 2 already, but if there is any doubt about either of the ones you have tried and all of the above suggestions dont lead anywhere, then I would try swapping to a variohm contactless one to rule that out.

Because aux outputs have flywheel diodes so you cant have a live device connected to an aux output when the ecu isn't powered up, it will just back feed and keep the ecu alive. If you have a 2 plug ecu you could try aux 5-8 in highside drive mode with the other side of the relay coil connected to ground, but then your "on switch" would need to connect to 12V instead of ground so defeats some of the isolation.

Yeah two different problems, I can not imagine any scenario that would create a relationship between measured fuel press and erratic trigger teeth timing. @Japtastic141 What fuel pressure sensor do you have? It is unlikely that calibration you have in your map is correct. It is not linear, only has a 2.9V range and cant measure anything below 150kPa? I dont think anyone would make a pressure sensor that has no logical references like this.

Ah, good work, that was going to be my next question. I too have seen spark leakage with poor fitting stalks on these coils.

Im pretty sure this trigger mode uses a count type sync so I suspect either rising or falling edge would work for trig 2 in terms of ability to sync and start. The ecu just checks whether it saw 1 or 2 trig 2 edges in the last crank rotation (between the missing teeth). Swapping from rising to falling would effectively inverse the count result so the offset should change by 360 deg. I dont think the 2GR mode does a wasted spark start so if it is running, it is running direct spark and the offset is correct. For the DI's, It sounds like possibly the voltage level is not crossing one of the thresholds. You can check what voltage is reaching the ecu by backprobing with a multimeter on the DI pin, and the engine not running, just pull a sensor out and place something iron in front of it to get both the high and low level. From memory with G4+ it needs to go above about 2V and below about 1.2V.

That suggests PC Link isnt aware of some settings that are in the firmware. Can you tell me what firmware and PC Link version you are using. You can find these by going to >help>ecu information (need to have a map open from the ecu or be connected to the ecu) and >help>about. The SI Drive mode is available on CAN AN 1. Notes below to show how it is enumurated. There are many different ways to utilise this for adjusting boost control such as switching between 3 different boost tables, interpolating 2 boost tables, or just referencing CAN AN1 on a single boost table. And any of these option could use closed loop or open loop. An example below using a single table varying boost target with CAN AN 1.

Can you attach a copy of your tune. With the engine off but pump running, if you feed say 20psi into your FPR with the mityvac, does the f press reported in the ecu increase by 20psi? Not related to your fuel press issue, but your RPM and dwell looks horrible, I cant imagine the spark timing is very stable like that. What do you have for a trigger?

In your existing drawing the coil for the isolation relay wont have 12V until the relay contacts are closed so it would never turn on. I havent thought through all scenarios in detail but you could possibly have the relay coil connected directly to batt+ if you have a spare ignition or injector output to use instead of the aux. The rest of the plan should work ok I think. For the kill input use a DI, assign it to the stop switch function and enable the latch. I suspect you would need to set the active state to low which may seem counter-intuitive but this would make it latch off during power up rather than latch on.

The idea of a seperate dog unload and main shift stage is with dog engagement gears you want an short/sharp torque reversal just to get the dogs separated, once they have released the goal is just to slow the engine down enough so the shaft speeds arent vastly different for engagement. In a synchro gearbox there is no undercut on the dogs and the clutch does the unloading so in theory you dont need a different cut for the disengagement Vs engagement. I would set the dog unload duration to 0, so you dont need to worry about any of the dog unload settings, your whole shift will be handled by the "main shift" settings. For a synchro flat shift, the start shift mode would usually be "digital input" using a clutch switch, the end mode can be digital input or time. Digital input means the cut will be active for the whole time the clutch is pressed, time means you would have a table controlling how long the cut is applied for for each gear. Both have pros and cons - to get the shortest possible shift in digital end mode the clutch switch needs to trigger in the right points (adjustable) and that will change with clutch wear etc. For the time based end mode the driver needs to be fairly consistent with how fast he pulls the lever and the timing between pedal and lever movement. Start with about 80% severity and 200ms duration if using time mode.

Yes, it should be set as per Vaughans picture, the civic plug-in has a separate high-side drive circuit for aux 5 & 6 on the adapter board.

All GM sensors are the same calibration so from that perspective it should work. Just the accuracy and reliability of an unknown manufacturer and origin will be your gamble.

Cruise switch is irrelevant. You should have 12V coming from fuse 18 to the clutch switch, from there it goes through the normally closed switch, straight to ecu pin A1. So A1 should see 12V when the clutch isn't pressed and 0V when it is pressed.

Not easily. There was a manufacturing oversight with the JZX100 adapter board which left CAN1 unconnected. It could be done by soldering a couple of wire links in but that would want to be done by Link or someone experienced. Does the device not have a selectable bitrate?

Is the bitrate set to 1mbit? The JZX CAN2 has the multiplex converter on it which runs at 1Mbit so anything connected will also need to use 1mbit. Some OBD2 devices maynot support 1mbit.

It sounds like a bad connection then if wiggling the cable causes it to disconnect and reconnect.

It should work as is with no changes. Make sure pull-up is off and active state is set to high.