Adamw

I think the cruise PID is just a bit too aggressive. You can see below how noisy TPS delta gets when cruise is active, even at the fixed speed, then where you change the set speed you see the big spikes in both directions. Basically the throttle is fighting every tiny deviation in speed. That over-excited TPS is also constantly triggering accel enrichment so you are probably burning more fuel than it should be too. Try halving your existing cruise proportional gain. I think Integral and derivate probably are ok but please set the "PID setup" to cruise control before the next log so we have some better data.

The attached will be a reasonable starting point. Enter your injector settings, correct engine size, check base timing and all sensor calibrations. 4AGE Boosted Modelled single throttle Monsoon.pclx

I would also check voltage on pin 45 during cranking, if this drops below about 7.5V the ECCS relay can drop out.

Sorry yes, 2 & 4 to D22. I have corrected my original post. The distributor has reluctor sensors so you dont have a choice of the edge in the software.

I thought most JZ engines have the tacho connected to the ignitor. Does it still have the stock ignitor and coils?

Agree with INSW20, the stock sensor is not suitable, I assume the Toyota ECU must have a much lower impedance input or some other form of attenuation to bring it down to a usable voltage.

The "noise" on the scope is normal, this is artificial noise caused by a combination of the 8bit resolution and aliasing due to the sample rate. I see the same "noise" even with a clean computer generated signal on the bench sometimes. The exhaust cam sensors are pretty prone to failing on modified evo's, so if you haven't tried that and still have the other car available you should try swapping that as a test. But apart from that I would still be concentrating on ignition system noise.

The log shows the idle valve is fully closed. So either the throttle is too far open, the stepper is not homing correctly, or it is losing position, so the ecu only thinks it is fully closed, but it is actually not. I would expect to see idle position around at least 20% open when hot. I would change the integral gain to 0.5 as 1.25 is possibly forcing it to move faster than it can actually move. Your idle ignition proportional gain is also very high at 15, typical is 1.0.

That would be fine. Connect dizzy pin 2&4 to D22 which I assume is the black wire. Distributor pin 5 to the grey, distributor pin 6 to the blue.

Please continue to communicate with Anthony, I cant help. I suspect the problem is the "0" on the front of the serial number, this is meant to be removed. You need the code for 4471, not 04471.

This means the ecu hasnt received a CAN message with the DI status for more than 2 seconds. This is a safety feature so if for example a wire gets broken your CAN-controlled cruise control wont get "stuck on". Default realdash behaviour is it only sends a CAN message when a state changes (ie the button is pressed). The "write interval" option is meant to force realdash to send the message at least once every interval regardless of a state change. So it sounds like your .XML is either missing the write interval attribute or has a formatting issue with it, or there is a bug preventing that from working. You could possibly use the CAN monitor in realdash to see if that message is being transmitted regularly. I assume it shows transmitted messages.

Your trigger offset is zero in the G4+ map and 268 in the G4X map. You need to confirm that with a timing light but I would expect similar numbers in both ecu's.

I can see in our tech support system that one of our sales team has provided an unlock code to you. Please continue dialog in the support ticket with Anthony if you still have a problem.

If pin 27 is at 12V when pin 56 is at 12V then that would indicate the FET is fried/damaged. It is pretty unusual since they have several protections and a huge current rating so it usually needs a pretty significant event to damage one - like the battery connected backwards or something. It's not impossible that it just failed on its own but it was at least working when it when through its production testing after several hours of burn-in testing. Anyhow, start by contacting [email protected] to get it back for inspection. The service team can usually determine the cause, if it doesnt appear to be related to a wiring issue then it will likely be a warranty repair. If there is strong evidence that it was caused by a wiring issue then they will let you know if there is going to be a repair cost.

My suspicion is more around ignition noise than an issue with the trigger as it is just coming on to full load around that RPM. Im assume if you lower boost it will rev cleanly to the RPM limit? Wasted spark ignition generates a lot of noise so all noise reduction considerations need to be well covered for wasted spark ignition at high boost. Does it have resistor spark plugs fitted? Are the HT leads OEM or a good quality performance brand and in good/new condition? What sparkplug gap is it running?

Contact [email protected] and they may be able to help. I’m going to delete all your other posts, as posting the same question in everyone else’s unrelated threads isn’t useful to anyone.

You cannot see or change any ecu settings if the ecu has been password protected.

You have a trigger issue as RPM shows zero when cranking. One issue is the pull-up on trigger 2 is off, so that likely needs to be enabled. And I would say your arming threshold on trigger 1 is probably too high, especially if it cranks a bit slow. Try it like below.

The main relay/pin 27 is controlled by a FET inside the ECU, you can think of a FET as a very efficient switch. The FET is controlled by the ignition switch/Pin 56. When the ignition switch is off, the FET is effectively "open", giving a circuit roughly equivalent to below. With the FET open you have no current flow through the circuit so you should have 12V at point a, b, c & d. If you measured voltage across the relay (c&d) you should have 0V (because same volatge on both sides). When the ignition switch is on, the FET has a very low resistance to ground, effectively pin 27 is switched to ground, something like below. If you measured voltages in this state you should have 0V at a, 0V at b, 12V at c, 12V at d. If you measure across the relay (b&c) you should measure 12V. The relay should be energised and the contacts pulled closed.

Ground one side of the switch and connect the other side to any spare DI. DI10 on pin 46 might be convenient. In the clutch switch settings, turn on the pull-up resistor, and set the active state to whichever setting gives you the correct active/inactive status. I guess it will be active low if they are a normally open switch.

Your deadtime at 14V is 0.74 Vs 0.9 in the K20 base map, and because you are using multipoint injection with 2 squirts per cycle, you have 2 deadtimes per cycle, so any error due to deadtime is doubled. Assuming the 0.9ms deadtime was realistic then you would be getting 0.32ms less fuel each cycle than the ECU thinks it is giving you. Your effective PW at idle is about 1ms so that is more than 30% error in terms of fuel delivered (sorry I had that wrong originally, it is more like 15% error, but still significant).

If the ECU was not grounding pin 27 to activate the main relay then you should see 12V on that pin. You should see 0V when the ecu is grounding it to activate the relay.

No, the table would not have been active with DI8 off. It is only the status display in PC Link that doesnt update after an input is turned off.

What is the voltage on Pin 56 and pin 27 with the ignition switch on?

How are you testing this? It will only be a very short pulse ~5ms, so you will need a noid light, or LED test light, or oscilloscope to be able to see the pulse. A multimeter or normal test lamp will not be fast enough to see an injector pulse. Very likely the injectors are seized after that amount of time.