Adamw

Check voltage on pin 109 when the ign switch is off but ECU is still on. It should be near zero. Provided that's ok, check voltage on pin 111, this should be near battery voltage when ignition is off.

What CAN stream are you using? Do you have a working wheel speed in PC Link?

Attach a copy of your tune.

You've got several issues by the looks. A trigger issue, the RPM drops to zero about once per rev when cranking. Attach a trigger scope and a copy of your tune. TPS is bouncing all over the place but AN Volt 1 voltage is sitting steady at 4.95V. Suspect this is not working and has been calibrated like that. ECT is not working/open circuit. Fuel pressure is zero.

Your engine needs 2% throttle to idle at the target RPM, but you have 0% in the E-throttle target and 0% in the idle base position table. In G4+ the bulk of the idle air should come from the E-throttle target table so set the whole top row to 2% as a start. Your Power steering switch on DI10 is active all the time so fix that or disable it so it doesnt mess up your idle tune.

It appears that all the fundamentals are working in your log and there appears to be fuel and ignition being commanded. So my first thought would be the timing is off by 180 or 360 if you had the phase sensor out when you were diagnosing the sensor issue. I dont know this engine well, but google says the keyway in the dizzy shaft should point towards the notch in the housing when the engine is at TDC#1 on compression stroke. Have you confirmed that?

All limiters include an optional retard when active. In your attached log it is the RPM limit that is active at the 19sec mark. With advanced mode turned off the default trim is -5 (5deg retard). If you dont want retard when the limit is active then you can set it to advanced mode and the trim is user configurable.

You would only need a splitter if you want to connect both devices to one bus. It is fine to have them connected to separate buses as you have.

You will still need a CANJST4 and possibly an extension depending on where you want to mount the lambda controller. https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANJST4 https://dealers.linkecu.com/ADA_7

I tried using pressure ratio many years ago when I used to use Autronic a bit, to me it was a very unintuitive strategy to tune and didnt seem to give me any advantages over a more traditional MAP based multiplier so I didnt bother with it after a couple of cars. This was on restricted rally cars so you would have thought it to be an almost ideal application with the compressor near choke and the turbine working very hard. The un-intuitive bit is you end up in the same load site at idle as you are at WOT, its only really over-run and cruise where the load site deviates more. Note what you are showing above with a math block on the fuel table load axis is just the "VE look-up", this is only half of what you need for a pressure ratio based SD calculation. The equation load source really needs to use pressure ratio instead of MAP.

The 10K and the 680uF are a low pass filter, "slowing down" and smoothing the signal.

I think your PID on the cam control might be a bit aggressive too, there is a bit of oscillation in a couple of areas. In the VVT settings, change the PID setting to custom and reduce the proportional gain to about 3.0, and the base duty to about 42%, this will likely settle the oscillation down. Although it would work fine with either tooth count since G4X populates the tooth count and tooth offsets tables during the cal process anyway, I thought I would correct this statement so it doesnt confuse others in future. The 1JZ and 2JZ VVTi cam pattern is identical, 3 evenly spaced teeth on both.

You wont need that 10sq050 diode. change the 100ohm pull-up to something like 3-500ohm will do.

And if a log does get split into multiple files due to size, at download time you can just select the multiple files using ctrl or shift click before clicking download and they will be stitched back into a single file when saved.

The MAP sensor is using the wrong calibration in both those maps. It is reading 30Kpa at atmosphere so you have less than 1/3 of the fuel you should have.

The most likely issue I see is the falling edges of trigger 1 & 2 are only about 3-4deg away from clashing. This is well within the amount that the cam will bounce around due to belt stretch and harmonics etc. The rising edge on trig 2 isn't much better so not point changing to rising, you really need to move the cam edge away from the crank edge by about half a tooth. Im not sure if the cam sensor is adjustable on that engine like an evo3 or if it is fixed like an evo 4, if it is fixed you could cut the window a little larger in the chopper disc. Or if you have adjustable cam gears you could retard the cam a few degrees. The other issue is the voltage spikes you have on the trigger signal, its hard to say which is the cause of your trigger error but these do appear to be a bit worse than typical. This would most likely be related to coil wiring, where they are grounded, HT leads, resistor plugs etc. I would fix the potentially chasing edges first then look at the electrical only if that doesnt cure it.

It sounds like a mis-sync issue. Although in that log the RPM drops to zero shortly after the first revolution which would suggest it wasn't happy with the crank signal as well. Do us a few more crank scope captures. The HP tuners cal sounds more normal for a 3Bar MAP. Do either of the built-in bosch 3bar cals give you a MAP similar to BAP with engine off? The 3.0bar @ 4.65V one covers about 95% of bosch 3bar sensors.

A log of a failed start attempt would be more useful.

If you have removed the TGV's the 4D fuel table should be turned off, this removes significant fuel when cold. You are probably going to need to retune a lot of the cold start stuff after tuning this off. Your map still has the fuel pump function setup for the standard 3 speed subaru controller and there are no other outputs set up for staged pumps? That needs investigating as the subaru controller def wont drive 2 x 450's for long - or if that's been bypassed then the pumps wont be priming because it uses inverted logic and I dont think the relay will be happy when its in 33 or 66% duty mode either. Also, do the pumps have check valves fitted so there is full pressure for the pre-crank prime?

Attach a copy of your tune and the scope log/s.

I think you have a weak power supply. Move your red/black wire to something more substantial. In the log below, CAN AN 9 is the battery voltage at the CAN lambda device, you can see up until about 28sec it was relatively stable, when you plug in the gauge at about 28sec we then get lots of spikes downward, although they only drop to about 12V in the log, in reality it would have been lower than this as this was just the last voltage that was sent out by the CAN lambda before it didnt have enough power to stay alive and shuts down. I think the shut down voltage is more like 7V normally. You can see the orange status trace changes to "OFF" at the same time - that means the ecu is no longer receiving CAN so the lambda has shut off for a short time.

Sorry I dont understand the question or what your pictures are trying to show. But in your log you are certainly hitting the MAP limit quite often and boost control looks like something is wrong or not tuned well, I cant tell what your MAP limit is set to since you have very little logged, but you are hitting 250kPa MAP sometimes when the boost target is between 140-180kPa.

First a quick explanation of antilag and cyclic idle: The main intent of Antilag is to keep the turbo shaft speed as high as possible during over-run conditions when the throttle is usually closed and the engine is producing little exhaust energy. It can increase exhaust energy with several factors, but usually; allowing extra air through the engine (throttle or bypass valve), retarded spark advance so more combustion heat transfers to the manifold and turbine, Ign and/or fuel cuts are used to prevent the pushing effect from the extra air/throttle and often ign cuts to allow some fuel to pass through the engine unburnt to combust in the manifold. Cyclic idle was originally mostly used in situations where the "extra air" for antilag was not able to be switched on/off by the driver, in Group N for example where modifications were strictly limited, the throttle stop was just adjusted so that it never closed more than say 25%. With the throttle not being able to close below 25% however, when the antilag was not active, then the engine would never be able to idle so they use cyclic idle to bring the RPM down to a more sensible idle value using fuel cuts. With the introduction of E-throttle you can turn the "extra antilag air" on/off with the antilag, so cyclic idle is not really needed for idle/drivability like it was with a fixed throttle opening. In the case of e-throttle, Cyclic idle is still often used for a short time after ALS to help cool down the manifold and turbine as you have a lot more cool air pumping through the manifold with the throttle open and fuel cut. This is because you have the Cyclic idle low TPS at 22%, but only 6% throttle commanded in the cyclic override. Cyclic will only start to fade out between the Cyclic idle low/high. I would probable suggest you leave cyclic off for now, but as an example if you want your throttle open 6% for cyclic, then your cyclic low should be about 7% and high about 10%. You have 0 in both the antilag fuel and ign cut tables.

You have stepper reset set to set to key-off, but no ECU hold power set up so the idle valve is never going to reset. The idle valve is going to be in a different place everytime you start it and the ecu has no way of knowing where it is. If the main relay control has not been wired as per one of the hold power schemes then your best option would be to change the stepper reset to "key on fuel lockout", it will then do the reset when you switch on ignition and will apply a fuel cut to prevent it starting if you attempt to start while the reset is occurring. So, turn the ignition on, wait a couple of seconds for it to reset before cranking. Your base position will likely need re-tuning after changing that.

No this is an OBD2 protocol device only as far as I know. OBD2 is a request/response type communication, there isn't data continuously broadcast. So for example to get lambda from this device, the "Scan tool" needs to first request it, in human language it would look something like this: "hello, Im a scan tool, ECU #6, please send me the current 02 data for sensor #2", the gauge then responds with just a single data point for that specific request and includes confirmation of what device it came from and what it represented. If you want a continuous stream of data you have to keep requesting it again and again - and you cant make a request until the previous data has been received. You could probably make it work with user streams by sending out a constant request, but the nature of this protocol is slow, probably less than ~10Hz at a guess so you would be better to use the analog output for connection to an ECU. The intent of the gauge is to be convenient to log alongside ecu data with an OBD2 based logger like HP tuners etc, it is not designed to send data to an ecu this way.