Adamw

The RPM goes to zero when there is a trigger error. The ECU cuts all fuel and spark when it loses crank position to prevent damage. So this your problem, but we need to find the cause. My best guess is noise from the ignition system since all previous logs have only shown it occur at high loads, but ignition energy should reduce when you lower boost so it is bit odd you have an issue at lower boost. What is the minimum boost you can run? It really needs an experienced tuner with a standalone scope to diagnose.

What was your tech support case number - I want to have a look at the testing notes.

That JST connector is for one of our plug-in ECU's. Yes you can connect directly to the main connector. What ecu to you have?

There is nothing too unusual in either of those scopes, possibly a couple of spikes of noise but . What does it have for an ignition system? Are the spark plugs resistor type?

For injectors that big I would expect the master fuel to be much smaller, more like 5ms, so it is possibly just flooded. Can you do a log of it cranking.

There is a serial number on the ecu and on the outside of its box. If both those have been removed then you can connect to PC Link and go to >help>ecu information. They are shipped locked so that if they are lost/stolen etc they cant be used. Obviously there would be no point putting the unlock code in the box. If you contact [email protected] they should be able to get you an unlock code for it assuming the ecu was not reported stolen.

His is not a pro trigger though, it is one of the 12tooth ones that has been modified to 12-1 by cutting a tooth off.

Im not sure if it would necessarily be a sensor problem. Could be a bad connection, broken wire, loose crimp, electrical noise etc. Does it do it every pull? Only at high RPM, full boost? Can you do a triggerscope around that RPM?

What ecu do you have?

I would probably lean towards an Xtreme for the 1U. The Fury would also do it if you wanted built in Lambda. Coils would be wired in wasted spark pairs with the Fury since it only has 6 ign outputs. Wiring for the Toyota clutched throttle is in the help file, Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Analog Inputs > Throttle/Accelerator Position Sensors > Specific TPS/APS Applications > Toyota Clutched Electronic Throttle Wiring for the VVT and coils is in the help file: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoids > Specific VVT Applications > Toyota 2UZFE VVT Wiring

Does it have resistor spark plugs? In the communication settings, try swapping the port between the USB and COM (instead of auto) options, often one will be better than the other.

They are NPT, 27TPI, BSP is 28tpi. As far as I know everyone gets them from the same supplier and they used to incorrectly state they were BSP in their documentation so everyone that sold them stated the same thing. I had our documentation, packaging and website etc corrected a couple of years ago but there is possibly still some old stock incorrectly labelled floating around.

24-2 on crank, single tooth on cam.

No point in doing that, if you cant connect then the ecu is powered down. The ecu has no control over the power supply so it is not related to the ecu. Have you replaced the main relay and checked all related connections?

The most important consideration for wire in the engine bay is the temp rating of the insulation - especially in the cylinder head "valley" (where the coils go) which is generally the hottest area with no air flow etc. Some basic PVC insulated wire is only rated to 80deg C. Consider also a wire with an insulation diameter that is suitable for the wire seals you have if sealing is important. If you are in the USA, TXL is a reasonably cost effective automotive engine bay wire option, high temp, thin wall. In Europe, FLRYW is similar, high temp, thin wall. As aerace suggests the Milspec wire is a very nice option, /32 or /16 is common in motorsport. You will get away with 20awg or 0.5mm2 for all wires in most cases.

I just looked at a log from the last GTR I tuned and it has about +/-20 MAP delta at idle - pretty sure that was quite stock though. You do have an adjustable MAP filter in G4X but I think I would leave that on low and just bump the MAP lock out up. BTW, those sections in your log where all the lines go flat is due to coms dropping out or not keeping up.

I have just sent you a PM with a new PC Link and firmware to try.

Yep, will do R32-R34

No, VSS are rarely shielded, usually only ABS sensors.

There are 720 degrees or 2 crank rotations in a 4 stroke engine cycle. The trigger mode you are using currently has no awareness of the cam sensor, it is looking at the flywheel sensor only. Without a cam sensor the ecu does not know whether it is looking at TDC on the first crank rotation or TDC on the 2nd crank rotation. So you will only be achieving correct injector timing by luck of the draw. For some start attempts the ecu will start firing the injectors at the correct time during the intake phase, for other start attempts you will luck out and the injectors will be firing on the wrong crank rotation - 360 deg out of phase. It will still run since the wasted spark means there will still be spark at the correct time - just injection timing will be out so there will likely be serious charge robbing going on. For it to sync reliably the ecu needs to see some unique pattern from the triggers once every 720 deg - the only place that can be created is from the cam.

What is the filter? Is it an oem type or a aftermarket/billet type? If it is a billet one with a stainless element it is likely a large micron, not suitable for injection.

MAP sync with a 4 Cyl even fire engine needs to be from a single port with ITB's. For the sync it is common to keep just the distributor base with a billet cap or similar to cover it. You you could possibly use some of the distributor body & drive system to make something much more compact. For example like this MSD one that uses a distributor "stalk" with a sensor pointing at a magnet in the shaft. Or maybe something like this 2JZ kit:

Sorry, I was working away for a week at the time of your last post, I must have got distracted and I never passed the scope on to the firmware team. I have just done that now. Will update you as soon as I can.

You havent replaced the damaged crank wheel yet though right? That scope still shows a missing tooth.