Adamw

Ok, how are you testing? Have you disconnected all wiring and checking directly at ECU pin with an LED test light or oscilloscope? Potentially something internal is damaged, but ignition drive 5-8 are all done with the same chip, so usually if the chip fails you will have 4 ignition drives that dont work. So I suggest you need to eliminate as many other external possibilities as you can before sending the ecu in for inspection.

I have had one before where the terminal was crimped on to a wire that hadnt been stripped first…

Does the settings tree show that Ign 6 is assigned to Ignition?

If the gauge shows there is data on the bus there must be a disconnection somewhere. Connect the USB to CAN device in place of the gauge to confirm data is there. If so then you can start investigating where it is lost.

The link can control the throttle and VVTi no problem. But I suspect you may have the story slightly wrong. Wouldnt the bigger problem that may require the factory ecu be the auto trans and dash in that car?

Yeah I dont think it will get much better. Most of it is "sync time" - this is when the ecu has determined engine position and phase. VQ35 trigger mode needs 360deg crank rotation to sync. In pic below; Red line is where battery voltage drops (starter motor first engages). Log time 03.218s Purple line is where RPM is first detected. Somewhere between time 03.796 & 04.046s Blue line is when ECU has determined crank and cam position and fuel and ignition are enabled. Time between 04:046 & 04.077s Green line is engine running (>400rpm). Time between 04.108 & 04.140s. So 0.922s total to start, about 0.8s of that was taken up by the ecu determining crank and cam position. There is not much you can do to improve the sync time apart from make cranking speed faster, it is really just a fact of an aftermarket ecu with a more basic trigger code since it has to work with many different types of engines. The factory nissan ecu only needs to run 1 engine type so it will have a more complex sync strategy - it will probably use both camshaft sensors and may also start in wasted spark so will sync much quicker.

Something odd I just noticed, Similar noise on trigger 1 still - but if we look at the trig 2 waveform directly underneath it is dead clean. Looking back through your older scopes it is the same - noise only on trig 1. I will have to check with engineering if there is any hardware reason for that - for example there may be more filtering on trig 2 since it never has to read high tooth counts. But thinking back at other cases Im pretty sure when there is a ground issue I have seen a similar noise on both triggers - they may have been VR cams tho. Is there anything different about trig 1 wiring than trigger 2? Do they both run together and ground to same point etc? I cant remeber if I have already asked - do you have access to a standalone scope? It can come from many different forms, which is why it is so hard to diagnose. The main thing you need to remember current always needs to flow back to its source. It can be current from the ignition system finding an easier path back to its source by going through the ecu ground etc instead of its main ground. Or it can be EMI where high voltage or current running in a big loop can generate a strong magnetic field that induces voltage into other wires etc. A couple of articles that you may find useful: https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/staying-grounded/ https://youtu.be/M1HfbXyYzSM

This one I have used a couple of times (same one Haltech sell): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002623900307.html Or depending where you live it may be faster to buy the Haltech one locally. https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-011310-gps-speed-input-module/

You might be best to contact Link Japan so they can help in your native language.

Got job on your setup, it looks good to me and I cant see any mistakes in terms of comms, it should work as far as I can see. I suspect Starter control might not act how you want - it might get "stuck on" since status "engine running" is decimal 2 which may keep the starter output channel true , so be careful with that once you get comms, but otherwise all looks ok. You might want to change that starter output to a formula with c_Starter value = 1. If you check the live capture box are you seeing any data in the area below? How about in the Light client, do you see 0x44C data in there?

Yes you would then have speed on the dash and the dash can send it back to the ecu if you want to use it in there too. Another lower cost option is one of the "GPS speed sensors" which just wire to the ecu digital input like a normal speed sensor.

As well as the cam wired back to front you also have a damaged crank wheel. It appears there is a tooth either broken completely off or badly damaged about the 23tooth around after the normal 2 missing teeth gap. God knows how the factory ecu runs like that but it certainly wont be a good idea to run it much like that.

No, there is no wideband controller on board.

What I am asking is if DI6 turns on and off with your AC switch or not?

I would expect a single value would still be fine. 30% DC means the injector is squirting for 220deg crank rotation. So moving the timing say 50deg either way is unlikely going to change much. On very high end NA engines with staged injection, outboard injectors, large overlap etc and injector DC below 30% all the way to say 10000RPM, then injector timing becomes much more important. Sounds ok. ID 1000/1050 are generally ok on petrol with a min cyl size of about 500cc. There are 3 important considerations. As far as injection event timing goes, the lower the DC the better. But in a road car you also need to consider the short PW behavior and not go so big that you will be operating in a region at low loads where the injector behavior is less predictable. Finally spray pattern, droplet size and atomization can have a big impact on how much puddle is attached to the port wall and also vapor production at cold start. Larger injectors typically are worse than small injectors from this point of view. Puddle volume affects transient fuel and vapor production affects cold start.

You've changed the bit rate from 1mbit in the older file to 500K in the newer one. Did you change the bit rate in the receiving device? You also have lots of CAN errors showing in both maps suggesting something on the bus is not responding correctly in terms of CAN laws.

But DI6 is showing as "active" in your screenshot above.

But if the ECU shows "AC Request Active", then AC Clutch should be active. Can you give us a log of the engine running and switch the AC switch on/off.

Can you give us a log of some start ups.

Have you tried experimenting with any of the cold start/cranking enrichments? That would be the place to start.

Yes your boost target is varied between 220 & 320kpa with ethanol content. Not really much more I can offer, you would be best to go to your tuner for diagnosis. Most likely ignition system related.

A signal value is usually fine as once you are over about 30%DC the timing has little effect. Typically done on the dyno to acheive best torque. One approximation you can do is with engine running steady at fast idle, adjust the inj timing backwards and forwards until the richest lambda is achieved, this is about your optimum inj timing.

AC Request shows active in your screenshot. Does your AC clutch work if you set Aux 3 to test mode?

The aux outputs have a pull up so are pulled high when inactive. 1.5Kohm to 12V. This would probably be enough to satisfy a high impedance digital input. It would be best to turn the PDM pull down off.

Nothing obvious in the log. The old log is high boost and E85 Vs the other log is E20 and low boost so cant really compare much. Fuel pressure look ok. MAP sensor looks ok. Will need to see your tune to know what is set up on GP limit 1.