Adamw

Have a read of Help file page: G4X ECU Tuning Functions > Fuel Setup > Multi Fuel > Multi Fuel Setup and Tuning Guide Step 6. Ignition table is done the same way.

https://www.nzefi.com/product/nzefi-link-g4-waterproof-mini-usb-wire-ecu-tuning-cable/

The last person I remember that had one for sale on this forum was @neil brown. Im sure I remember someone in one of the facebook groups offering one also but I had a search around and I cant find it. Having said that, I wouldnt be too worried about getting your data out of the G1 for the Link plus, it is a pretty simple engine and you dont have a lot of settings in these old ecu's to start from scratch..

Aux 4 is the ground.

A relay is a very simple device, it only needs 12V on one side of the coil and Ground (0V) on the other side for it to engage. Which your test above shows you already have. You will need to get someone more experienced involved if you cant understand the circuit.

Yeah that looks fine

This is correct. If you have 12V on one side of the relay and 0V on the other side then the relay should be on.

It doesnt need to be particularly powerfull. Get something with at least 1 standard USB port (not only USB-C port like some modern ones), and screen resolution 1080 x 1920 or less - some of the UHD or 4K etc do some odd display scaling which PC Link doesnt like.

Amp superseal 1.0

What country are you in?

There is a multi-fuel tuning guide in the help file page: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Fuel > Multi Fuel > Multi Fuel Setup and Tuning Guide. You need to use modelled fuel equation for flex fuel so the existing fuel tune is no use - you will have to start fresh and tune both fuels from scratch. I have heard of many users having trouble with accel enrichment when using a roots blower with some injectors on top. Im not really sure why. However I would first try changing your Accel enrichment mode to TPS instead of MAP, you will probably find MAP is not a good representation of transient air flow because you have a positive displacement pump always trying to keep MAP constant.

I think the problem is you have AP sub & main assigned to two different sources. You have them assigned to Analog input 6 & 7, then also coming in on CAN bus user stream 9. I suspect the CAN stream will sometimes be overwriting the analog value with a "0". You must only have one source assigned to AP sensors.

Run the engine at fast idle above the VVT RPM and ECT lockout, then set cam angle test to "calibrate", it will turn itself back to off after a few seconds. This procedure will populate the tooth offset tables. Then copy all the other settings out of our K20 base map.

The only time I have seen something like this is when the ecu is not powered up through the power pin but is instead powered up via a back feed through an aux. Check the main ECU plug is pushed all the way home especially at the ends and not bent - It is pretty common for users with the Nissan ECU's to think the plug is all the way in since the bolt in the center is tight, but sometimes rather than the ends pushing in at the same time the connector just bends and the ends of the plug arent all the way home and making contact. The power pins at at the very outside end of the connector so this results in the ecu not receiving its main power supply. PC Link coms settings like below. If still no joy then I think I will get you to pull the ecu out of the car and power up on the bench.

Does the ecu connect up and come online properly if you dont try to do an update?

Ok, moved to G4X forum. Plug-in? Wire-in? What model?

What ecu do you have? Does it report an error when it freezes up or just stops progressing?

You are probably better to fix the plumbing as working that way means if the solenoid fails or a wire breaks etc your boost goes to the moon. But if you want to invert the logic, change the "Active state" setting for the aux to the opposite of what it is now in the boost control settings

A boost solenoid is just a coil of wire wrapped around an iron pole, they are not polarity sensitive and swapping the wires does nothing. What is the problem or what are you trying to achieve?

The polarity looks correct in your scope. What does this sensor point at? A tooth directly on the cam?

There is a drawing in the help file page here: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoids > Specific VVT Applications > Honda K20A VTEC Wiring

Will need to see your tune to see what is causing the overrun fuel cut to in when it is not expected. The limits flags word is what is known as a "bit flag", basically a 16bit value where each bit represents one of the limiters. RPM limit is 1, MAP limit is 2, Over run fuel cut is 64. So if only RPM limit is active the limit flag word will be 1. If only overrun fuel cut is active the flag word will be 64. If Overrun fuel cut and RPM limit are active at the same time the limit flag word will be 65. So there are 65535 different combinations of limiters covered. Try this link, I've tried to share an excel decoder. If it opens in read only mode you will have to click the edit button. Type your limit flag word into the box at the top and hit enter, the limits that were active should be highlighted red. https://1drv.ms/x/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPxkEMcZGv55oQwzbU?e=bjkHQA

So with aux 4 set to test ON, what voltage do you have on relay pin 85?

You wont be able to use a 3 wire sensor to the gauge, they have a strong pull up resistor so will make the sensor and ecu read incorrect - if at all.

Yes, intake sensor to a DI, exhaust sensor to trigger 2.