Adamw

That probably means you havent logged MGP.

Yeah all looks happy in those logs and scopes, the ECU would have been commanding a spark in all of those. I wouldnt worry about the timing light too much initially, the evos usually start with the offset at zero. Try it with the plugs back in, provided you have RPM that isnt dropping out you should have spark.

If your lambda target table has the same axes parameters as your main fuel table then you don’t need to specify the load value. You only need to use that if for example your fuel table uses TPS for load but your afr target table uses MAP for the load axis. Have a look at this video from about 6:00 for an example of using quick trim: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPszwGHNUSbvWjCT-D

To the intake cam sensor

Then you do this in the VVT menu. There is a "Monsoon Honda K20" map in the base maps folder that you can use as reference.

So you have wired something wrong then. Can you tell us what ecu you have and what aux you have wired the relay to.

Can you give us a pic of the cam sensor. There must be some way to get acceptable voltage out of it otherwise the factory ecu wouldnt have worked either.

I just looked at a couple of files I had from other GTR's with PRP triggers. They didnt have one tooth ground off so their offset doesnt translate directly to yours, but if I look at where their #1 spark occurs compared to their cam tooth position (I expect your cam tooth should occur in a similar position to theirs), then I come up with offset numbers around either +150 or -210 for you. That would be about 40deg more advanced than you have it now. Some of that could be due to the cam sensor being in a different position though. So since you say you have an occasional hint of it catching at 107deg, that would suggest you are probably firing on the right phase. Can you try your offset at say 120, 130, 140 just in case the other guy has got that offset wrong somehow. See if it sounds closer to running with these offsets. Also bump your master fuel up to about 10ms.

67DegC is correct for 1.7V.

Yep aux 2 would be a good option.

Very, very rare to damage an injector drive in a Link ecu. The fet for each drive is rated for 60A continuous. Flyback is clamped at 80V like most good ECU injector drives. You need to clamp it high to get good injector performance. You will generally melt the connector or burn the track off the PCB first before you damage an injector drive. Ignition drives have no flyback protection but that's why you have an ignitor, it is meant to handle the current and primary flyback, it doesnt make it back to the ecu. Aux outputs are flywheeled.

Can you pop the lid off the CAS and check if the 4 tooth chopper wheel looks modified. The firmware engineer says the code expects the trigger 1 teeth to be about 70deg wide and the gaps between them to be about 110deg wide. But in your scope they look more like 90 & 90deg. This could be something wrong with the CAS/modified - or it could (more likely) be caused by the crank slowing down more than expected due to compression at TDC etc. Does it crank relatively smoothly and sound like it cranks strong or is it really struggling? If you pull all spark plugs out (so it has no compression) do you then have RPM reported in PC Link and regular spark?

Is aux 2 for your VTEC high/low cam, not VTC right?

I've passed your scopes onto the firmware team for their thoughts. The message about reconnecting with different settings usually means you changed something in the ecu then turned ignition off (or it lost power during cranking etc) before it was stored. So the ecu will revert back to old settings.

I did consider that before my earlier reply, I dont think it will make a lot of difference. Possibly your numbers will end up a bit bigger. With numbers of 100% in the charge temp table that means the air entering the combustion chamber is at coolant temperature. I guess in your case you could potentially end up with the intake port wall actually higher than coolant temp but I suspect not. It will still be a reasonable starting point.

That will be fine. Really only makes a difference at idle in most cases.

Attach your map, I will take a look how your speed sensor is set up.

Did you try this yet?

Hmm, thats a bit odd. In that latest scope, it did lose sync for some reason in the first couple of revolutions (pink square), but after that it resynced and carried on happy after that (yellow square), it should have been sparking during that yellow area. Can you do us a couple more similar scopes when you get a chance, Im going to pass this onto the firmware engineers to see if they can tell me what caused it to lose sync in that first revolution (it wouldnt be sparking during these first couple of revolutions). A couple more scopes would be helpful to see if there is any similarities.

Ignition outputs are also lowside drive. Also only pulled up to about 6V.

Im thinking in your case it might be worth trying the staging table based on RPM rather than MAP. Bringing them in at say 4-5000RPM will probably fix that 100%DC on the primary. To add extra fuel based on speed use a 4D fuel table something like below:

For sure it will pay to confirm that. Pre-ignition is kind of self perpetuating - so for example if it is borderline on all cylinders but there is one cylinder that is just running a bit hotter (coolant flow or intake air flow etc) then as soon as it starts per-igniting on that cylinder it generates even more heat that cant be expelled so it just gets hotter and hotter every cycle.

Yeah, you've certainly got a real stubborn one here. Im starting to runn out of ideas too. What is that sensor, it is not one I recognise visually?

I havent sorry, Ive been away for a week with no test gear. Ill take a look maybe later today.