Adamw

No bridging needed. Consider the box I have marked "solo" on the pictures above as the CAN connector somewhere near your solo. You will have 2 CAN H wires crimped into the CAN H pin (1 in and 1 out) and 2 CAN L wires crimped into the CAN L. The bus will be continuous whether the solo is plugged in or not.

The amplitude variation on the scope will likely just be the crank slowing down as each piston comes up to TDC. It looks quite usable for start up and will likely even up when running. The colours of arming thresholds dont change as there is no specific value that is right or wrong.

Lambda controller setup is irrelivant to making the engine run or not. I was only telling you the lambda set up was wrong because you were complaining it was reading wrong further up.

If you have both then I would make use of them, its only 2 or 3 extra wires. With no cam sensor you cant do sequential fuel or any individual cylinder fuel or ignition trims. Knock control only on pairs of cylinders.

For the solo2DL set the ECU stream in RS3 to Link CAN BUS BASE. The CAN bus should be a trunk of twisted pair with any stub off the main trunk kept short. You can do it like this: Or I often find a "daisy chain" type variation easier so there is effectively no stub at all, something like this:

They are not really useful for logging, they just tell you whether a signal is present or not.

No, Ign 1 to 1& 6. Ign 2 to 5&3, Ign 3 to 4&7, Ign 4 to 8&2. There is a note in the help file that explains how it works so I will use that to give a bit more info.

The GP Temp runtime will still do anything you want in the ecu. The native oil temp runtime is only available on AN Temp inputs. To send the GP Temp via CAN to a display you can load the configurable generic dash user stream and swap oil temp with the GP temp. Attach a copy of your tune if you need help to do that.

Your G4X had a CAN lambda set up, is that no longer connected? Your lambda calibration still looks a bit unusual to me, what controller do you have connected? The rest looks ok.

Can you attach a copy of your tune. Did you try both 500K and 250K bitrates?

It appears there is an issue with your TPS main signal. If you have already replaced the throttle then it would have to be a bad connection to the TPS main sensor somewhere. The throttle position control uses the TPS main sensor, the TPS sub is only used as a comparison for error checking. In both of your logs the TPS main gets erratic just before the engine stalls, but if we look at TPS sub it is not erratic and is actually sealed shut at zero. So it looks like TPS sub is actually the correct one and TPS main is wrong. I think that could also explain the MAP signal taking a long time to bleed away the vacuum yesterday as with the throttle sealed shut there would be vacuum produced until the engine completely stopped. The engine is still actually turning after the log shows zero RPM, this is just the point where the trigger signal is no longer reaching the threshold. Since the TPS sub signal looks reasonably realistic I think that suggests the 5V and gnd is probably ok, the issue is more likely with the TPS main signal connection so that is what I would concentrate on first. I would start by setting up a big gauge on a PC Link screen with TPS main displayed, watch that while yanking/bending/stretching/shaking the loom and connectors around the throttle, ecu, and the path in between. Hopefully you will see it go crazy when doing that. As Vaughan said yesterday this is just idle ignition control hitting the max clamp trying to keep the engine alive.

All mechanical regulators have what is known as a pressure gradient or regulation slope. Pressure varies with flow and the pressure control is never perfectly 1:1 with the boost reference. The slope is typically around 0.25kPa/LPH but some are much worse than others. I think your last pic with the pressure dropping 60Kpa is more than just the regulation slope though, it looks more like a supply restriction or lack of pump.

Sorry Im not sure exactly what problem Im trying to fix as there are several issues discussed above. But the main issues I see in your G4+ map is the fuel and ignition table Y axis have TPS Delta on them instead of "TP (Main)" so these both need to be changed. TPS either appears like it may not be working or calibrated wrong? It was showing 100% when you saved that map. Confirm TPS does show 0-100% as you move the throttle. There are a couple of small differences in the injector setup - G4+ is using 310kPa, G4X is using 300kPa rated pressure, the deadtime is a bit different at 14V. The calibration table for the lambda controller is set up incorrectly, it is using pressure units. Typically the linear Cal 4/5/6 would be used for lambda.

Ah yes, sorry for the bad info. Im so used to not having that reallocation functionality in our older software and have never needed it so forget it is even there.

Yes you can use a Volt input with external pull-up. 1K to 5V would be my suggestion.

Im not sure if this is your only problem but it appears there is something wrong with your MAP sensor or its plumbing - it takes nearly 3 seconds after the engine stops to return to atmospheric pressure. Prior to that it looked like it was giving normalish response. Perhaps a kink in the hose or its full of oil or delaminating?

There is no temp 4 on that ecu. The manual is correct, temp 3 is available on both the header and expansion.

You have it set to log only above 2000RPM, so in your top pic the logging is starting and stopping constantly as the RPM is constantly bouncing above and below 2000RPM. It appears you changed that setting for the 2nd picture as it starts logging from about 1200RPM in that one.

Would need to see the log and the tune. Does injector PW vary when the lambda varies? Is fuel pressure stable? Perhaps over-run fuel cut or another trim is active...

It is not possible with that ECU, there is extra hardware attached to Ign 4 to control the main relay etc.

Yeah something very wrong here. TPS delta would usually be less than 1%/100ms with the engine running steady state. Your MAP delta doesnt look too out of the ordinary for an ITB engine, so I would say that is probably ok and wont cause you any tuning issues. A couple of thoughts for the TPS: Unplug the MAP sensor and unplug/completely disconnect the lambda controller (including its 12V & gnd) and run the engine like that with just the TPS connected. See if TPS noise improves with those two taken out of the equation. My thought here is possibly if the MAP was wired wrong you could have MAP noise superimposed on the TPS signal - or if it is some "fake" sensor it could be doing anything to the 5V or Gnd. I've had a fake denso coil sending 400V back into the ecu output every time there was a spark before so I wouldnt rule out anything... The reason for disconnecting the lambda controller is the Innovate lambda controllers are a complete POS - there is no isolation between the high current PWM heater control and the analog output so the ground connection can add noise to all analog sensors if grounded to a point that has a path back to sensor ground. Backlash in TPS coupling - Check the TPS is a tight fit on the "D" shaft, this is especially important if the TPS is one that doesnt have the internal spring to soak up the lash. If there is any doubt then put some RTV in the D before assembly and let it dry before running again. I have "fixed" a couple of Nissan sensors this way that had noise due to a loose fit on the shaft. Vibration in the cable/linkage system - Im not familiar with the RHD kit, although from what I have seen Rama does make some nice throttles. But assuming this is a 911 we are talking about then I imagine the linkage is a complicated contraption and I vaguely remember they have that horrible cable or rod down the the centre of the car that I think is pulling from a chassis mounted bracket instead of an engine mounted bracket like a more conventional cable system? So potentially some vibration could be introduced into the throttle shafts via the linkages or any movement between engine and chassis? Can you feel any vibration in the throttle shafts with the engine idling? I have fitted a "bolt-on" Jenvey kit on a 911 before and I had to cut up most of the linkage, shift arms around, extend levers etc just to get full and equal movement on both sides so I know the linkage can be a bit of a challenge on these. Alternator - disconnect the alternator and give it a short run, possibly AC from a bad diode or something could cause some noise in the electrical system somehow. The TPS itself - I have had trouble with noise from a generic-looking BMW sensor before - although it was a used sensor of unknown miles, and I have also seen large voltage drift with temperature and regular failures from the cheap looking vishay/colvern ones that many aftermarket throttles use. So I always use the contactless ones on ITB race engines now. I think in this case it is unlikely a sensor issue since you have tried 2 already, but if there is any doubt about either of the ones you have tried and all of the above suggestions dont lead anywhere, then I would try swapping to a variohm contactless one to rule that out.

Because aux outputs have flywheel diodes so you cant have a live device connected to an aux output when the ecu isn't powered up, it will just back feed and keep the ecu alive. If you have a 2 plug ecu you could try aux 5-8 in highside drive mode with the other side of the relay coil connected to ground, but then your "on switch" would need to connect to 12V instead of ground so defeats some of the isolation.

Yeah two different problems, I can not imagine any scenario that would create a relationship between measured fuel press and erratic trigger teeth timing. @Japtastic141 What fuel pressure sensor do you have? It is unlikely that calibration you have in your map is correct. It is not linear, only has a 2.9V range and cant measure anything below 150kPa? I dont think anyone would make a pressure sensor that has no logical references like this.

Ah, good work, that was going to be my next question. I too have seen spark leakage with poor fitting stalks on these coils.

Im pretty sure this trigger mode uses a count type sync so I suspect either rising or falling edge would work for trig 2 in terms of ability to sync and start. The ecu just checks whether it saw 1 or 2 trig 2 edges in the last crank rotation (between the missing teeth). Swapping from rising to falling would effectively inverse the count result so the offset should change by 360 deg. I dont think the 2GR mode does a wasted spark start so if it is running, it is running direct spark and the offset is correct. For the DI's, It sounds like possibly the voltage level is not crossing one of the thresholds. You can check what voltage is reaching the ecu by backprobing with a multimeter on the DI pin, and the engine not running, just pull a sensor out and place something iron in front of it to get both the high and low level. From memory with G4+ it needs to go above about 2V and below about 1.2V.