Adamw

Yes.

That pic is not of a factory 1.6 MX5 TPS pinout. As I said above they only have a ground, a WOT signal and an Idle signal. Most likely that pic you show is taken from either a megasquirt or speeduino plug-in manual in which they do a weird fudge at the ecu pinout and send 5V down one of the original signal wires. Obviously not a great idea when the factory connects that same wire to ground, so it is a nice way for someone to short out the ecu on first poiwer up if they dont read the manual before plugging it in. You can do the same if you wish by splicing the WOT signal wire (pin 21) to the 5V (pin 8) and move the idle signal wire to pin 7.

Either your MAP sensor calibration or wiring is wrong, it is showing 166kpa all the time which is above your MAP limit, so you have a 100% fuel cut.

The pic above is looking into the connector on the CANPCB cable. CANF pinout from help file below.

Yeah as far as I know they all share the same pinout. Some basic throttle and idle settings from our LS race car below that will probably be a decent starting point. This one needed a lot of dashpot offset to stop it stalling, I assume due to the big plenum.

Why have you got TC1-4 in stream 2 again? It wasnt like that in the file I done. If you look in the ecumaster software, is the bit rate and ID's set to the defaults like below. Does live data show in their software?

Do you hear the injectors click and do the coils spark if you use the injector/igniton test function? Can you attach a log of it cranking and the tune.

Have you already seen the stuff in the zip folder on the first post in the realdash thread?

The 1600 MX5's only have an "idle switch", connected to ground and pin 46 and a WOT switch connected to pin 21. If this is your car then there is no 5V at the idle switch so there is nothing to power a 3 wire variable TPS. So if you have a 1600 model then the easiest option is to use an expansion haness to get the 5V and an analog input to the new TPS sensor. The 1800 models have a factory 5V TPS and these need nothing further, it is connected to AN Volt 1 ( pin 7). It looks like the pinout in the manual has a typo as it shows pin 7 as O2 sensor, but it is in fact TPS on 1800MX5 and GTX.

No, it should work as normal. I just done a quick test with a log from my car which uses modelled equation and it appears to work as expected.

Your wiring in the .xlsx file appear to be mostly correct, But I think there are potentially 2 small mistakes:As Pin A19 - I think this is just a signal from the igniton switch to tell the ecu that the engine is cranking. This should be connected to a digital input, not an aux output. Pin A7 & A8 (Aux 4) - I think this is actually to control the fuel pump relay, not the main relay. As for the crank and cam sensor not working, my only thought is from the wiring diagram it is not clear which pins are ground and which pins are signal. So it maybe worth trying to swap D5 with D6 and swap D10 with D9 as sometimes you will find the sensor, wiring or factory ecu connects one of those pins to ground.

Yes that is pretty normal, it is due to the the fuel film evaporating from the port walls. Basically the opposite effect causes the lean patch when you open the throttle (if no accel enrichment was implemented). Some ECU's have a wall wetting model or a "decel enleanment" feature to improve it but we dont at this time. I like Shane T's demonstation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTXPF-6M1D0

Injector timing really only has a noticable effect (even then sometimes barely measurable) at injector duty cycles less than about 40%. So for most users with a single injecor per cylinder, injector timing becomes irrelevant above medium load/RPM conditions. In a high output NA engine where you are trying to find every last bit you typically use staged injection to keep DC below 40% at redline. The injector timing will generally trend earlier with increasing RPM (bigger value).

Im not sure how much help I can offer since it is a japan only vehicle we have no info here or wiring diagrams etc. I assume all factory data will be japanese only which may not be very useful to me. If you have a link to a factory wiring diagram please share it and I will take a look to see if I can help. Your attachement "JA4 wiring" isnt available. I will also ask user @Mach if he can maybe offer any help, I know he has a E07Z engine with a Link ECU so maybe he has some advice or knowledge.

Depends what trigger mode and what sync mode you are using. You have given no info. In multittooh mode you will need the cam sesnor as that tells the ECU which tooth on the crank to work from. In missing tooth mode with "cam pulse 1X" sync mode the ecu just checks if a cam pulse occured in the last revolution or not. With nearly any of the modes you can unplug the cam sensor when the engine is running and the ecu can keep track of engine position, it is only when you have a bad signal on the crank as well that it needs the cam again to re sync.

Unfortunately the V series ECU is not really capable of generating the Generic Dash 2 stream, this was something that was only introduced later in G4+. The V series can only send data in a fixed format of 16bit values and has no options to rescale the data that is transmitted. The Generic Dash 2 stream has a mix of 8 bit and 16bit data sent as well as some odd scaling applied to some of the channels. You can try the attached file, I've tried to reproduce the channels that do fit into the V series format so some of the basics should work. RPM, MGP, ECT, Lambda, Gear and a couple of others that probably arent very useful. Cant do IAT, oil temp, oil or fuel press. I think we could make fuel press work but it will read 1/10 of actual. ClioF4R CAN test.pcl

Even though this trim is in the "idle load trims" menu, if you read the help file it says it is actually active all the time the AC clutch is engaged, so your idle conditions shouldnt matter. My feeling is since there is some randomness there is possibly a bug related to the use of the virtual aux for the AC function. As a test can you turn of Virtual aux 1 and try aux 3 assigned directly to AC clutch to see if it is more reliable when set up that way.

Try this one. 1846791508_G4BusaMethanol4Listtyahdonohjaus CAN change.pclr

The trigger mode was designed to have the LH intake cam connected to trig 2, so I would stick with that. It is only a matter of changing those two settings in PC link to match your wiring. It may work the other way but without asking the firmware guys how the sync test is performed in this mode I wouldnt risk it.

You need stable and predictable differential fuel pressure. If you know the regulator is under sized then you need to fix that, you are not going to be able to get a a good tune when the fuel pressure is so poorly controlled. Injector flow is correctly modelled using Bernoulli's equation. Flow change is roughly proportional to the sqaure root of the pressure change. Injector timing isnt really relevant at this stage, but just FYI, at idle and cruise with normal injectors close to the valves, the ideal EOI will usually be around 360-400BTDC. You want the fuel to sit on the back of the hot intake valve for as long as possible to be best vapor in the port.

Also since you mentioned "50/60Hz AC", you need to check your part number is for the solenoid that is designed for 12DC. That spec shows 4 options, 200VAC, 100VAC, 24V DC, 12VDC. Only the 12V DC option will work, the part number should end with *-4.

I can reproduce this by testing on the bench, I suspect there is an un-discovered bug (or one that has long since been forgotten) with the purge function in G4. It wont be fixed since it has been obsolete since 2013. You can acheive the same functionality using a GP output function instead.

It is a V series ECU, I cant tell you if it is a V44 or V88 as that sticker you show is only for the adapter board, not the ecu on top. I dont have easy access to the serial number database for these old ones. But the software you need is VTS, it works with all V series ecus, download from here: https://www.vi-pec.com/software/vts-v4-10-2.1784 Once connected you can go to Help>ecu information to see what model ecu you have and confirm it is running the latest firmware etc (V4.10.2 is the last).

Can you attach your tune. The screenshot you attached is for a G4+. The V44 doesnt even have the Generic dash 2 template does it?

You have logged very few channels so cant be sure from that log, but generally if you have an unstable oscilation when the target is stable then the PID is not correct. Most likely needs less P or more D, but you really need to adjust it live while doing step tests to find the right balance between response and stability.